Turbocharging new L3940 Gutless Pig Tractor

[MHarryE]

Diesels don't have a stociometric fuel ratio like gasoline engines (Otto cycle vs. diesel cycle). Gasoline engines are throttled to take in only the amount of fuel/air mixture needed (or on the latest engines with direct gasoline injection still limit the air to get the proper ratio. Diesels are I throttled, always take in a full charge of air, and inject only enough fuel to meet the power need. At low power there is a lot of unused oxygen in the exhaust. Whomever said running a diesel lean will blow the engine needs to Google diesel cycle and read up. The Otto cycle is heat added at constant volume I.e. top of stroke. Diesel cycle is heat added at constant pressure - top of stroke begin burning fuel to hold a constant pressure as the piston moves down. Of course actual design does not match the perfect cycle pressure diagram. And always adding politics to set blame. If you look at the standard the date it was signed was May 11, 2004, and I do not believe Obama was president at that time. But the question about turboing the 2.0 liter V-2003-V engine - Kubota does not supply a 2 liter turbo engine in their pre 2013 engine lineup. The V series doesn't come with a turbo until 2.4 liter - according to Kubota anyway.

 

[PHILIP8N]

But the question about turboing the 2.0 liter V-2003-V engine - Kubota does not supply a 2 liter turbo engine in their pre 2013 engine lineup. The V series doesn't come with a turbo until 2.4 liter - according to Kubota anyway.

This engine is from their industrial line up, which is where I get most my information. I have the fun job of packaging diesel engines from 40hp to 700hp into compressors for a living. Philip.

 

[LD1]

by the time you would buy a turbo and manufacture all the manifolds you would be money ahead selling it and buying a bigger tractor
my :2cents:

Ditto.

Sure, you will take a beating trading in (but maybe not if you go to the same dealer and upsize).

And yes, a bigger tractor cost more.

BUT, With all the parts, time, and labor involved in making your tractor 50HP, it would be cheaper to get the right size tractor.

And look on the bright side, you would keep the warranty, you would have a stronger loader (which you already complained about), and you wouldnt have to deal with all of this.

But if you really like wasting money, kubota parts manuals are ALL OVER online. Print one out for your engine. Then print one out for the Bobcat engine you reference. The buy ALL of the parts that are different and start swapping. But I'd expect you to easily be north of $8k in putting a turbo on that tractor if you do it right and dont half @$$ it.

 

[dodge man]

Not to insult the OP, but it sounds like you bought the wrong tractor for the job. Maybe just a little practice with your grader and you will find it will do the job. I'm sure you could turbo the thing, but like so many others have said, at what cost? I've heard the saying that you can get so much power out of an engine, the question is do you want that power all in one day or over a period of years.

One thing to keep in mind, a diesel engine without a turbo is kind of a dog. What they do to tractors up to a certain point, is put in a bigger engine. Its cheaper to do this than add a turbo. As you start getting into bigger tractors and engines, its cheaper to add a turbo to get the power you want. What small non turbo diesel engines are good at is making power for a long period of time. You could hook your tractor up to a PTO generator and run that thing at 90% power for hundreds of hours and it will take it. Try that on a gas engine.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Try this. Turn off all your automatic HST devices, autothrottle, stall guard, and auto H-DS to off (manual mode). Put your 3 speed gear selector in 'L' low. Push your dual speed hydro lever towards panel to low position (turtle will light up). Put tractor in 4WD. Set engine rpm's to 2500. Now try pulling uphill, and report back. I think some of your problems may have been operational. Philip.

 

[The Fred]

I have a Kioti dealer near me and tried one out. I just couldn't stomach the cheapness of it so went with the proven brand. Also not sure about their dealer network as some dealers are dumping them at cost because of coming interest in their floor plans.

Anyway like I said before I wanted around 50hp in the same frame size as the L3940 but dealers sold out and forcing me to buy a 60 series with DPF technology. That's all well and fine until you fuel it up. have a 2007 Duramax that has NEVER seen better than 12 MPG bone stock. The upside is you don't smell it like Diesels of old. Also a 2011 Jetta TDI that never smells even on cold startup. The new diesels use 20% more fuel and cost way more to purchase not to mention when all that add on crap breaks it is not cheap to replace.

Fred, again thanks for the help all of you.

 

[WaxMan]

Land Lever, Box Blades, Scrape Blades -Root Rake- Cultivator -Lowery Manufacturing, Inc. Farm Equipment

OK ok ok I can screw with the best of you as you screw with MY thread.
In low yes "L" on the range finder.

It's way underpowered and most likely will get a boost somehow.

Really folks what I need for input would be help properly sizing a turbo not turning this into a "should he do it or not" thread. Should I use an intercooler? Do I need different injectors?
The S-160 engine is 60 hp. I might be happy with 50. I have a 75 inch rear mount snoblower that most likely will put a damper on my fun this winter.

There's some good diesel guys on this forum who could shoot me some ideas. The warranty issues and ifs or buts are my problem.
I have tig welder and tools, lathe, milling machine whatever it takes. What I LACK is proper education to size the turbine.

Thanks, Fred

I started reading this thread until I got to here, Really ...........Not sure why you guys even post anything after reading what he said here.
Sounds like he's just playing you guys.

 

[johnk]

Sounds like a Troll just bashing brands. Why spend that kind of money with no good points. Should have bought a 100HP 2 WD and been done with it.

 

[90cummins]

The Fred
I had the same feelings about my 1720 Ford CUT, for me it was perfect except for power.
I thought about a turbo for quite a few years and came upon a turbo at a swap meet for $35. It was off a Saab Turbo, waste-gated and the turbine housing were clock able meaning you can rotate them on the center section for alignment purposes.
It was one of the best mods I did to my tractor.
It was a Garrett GT1752 and would work nicely on your 2.0L Kubota.
They can be found on e-bay and there are also a lot of turbine and compressor options available to match your engine if needed.
Pictures of my installation can be found in the review section under Ford 1720.
The turbo makes my engine respond like a car.
Good luck
90Cummins

I'd like to mention that the total cost was under $200 and the results were amazing!

 

[buickanddeere]

Try this. Turn off all your automatic HST devices, autothrottle, stall guard, and auto H-DS to off (manual mode). Put your 3 speed gear selector in 'L' low. Push your dual speed hydro lever towards panel to low position (turtle will light up). Put tractor in 4WD. Set engine rpm's to 2500. Now try pulling uphill, and report back. I think some of your problems may have been operational. Philip.

Sounds awful complicated for a tractor. How about a throttle a L,M & H plus a couple of hydro pedals. One for F and the other for R ?