Turbocharging new L3940 Gutless Pig Tractor

[GolfAddict]

...You and perhaps the implement dealer made a mistake, it is not going to be that hard to fix it. But if you want to be hardheaded about it, do as you will, it is your tractor, your implement, your property. But I would suggest that thousands of L3940hst owners do not think of their tractors as "gutless pigs", and have sense enough to size implements and tractors and terrain to make for happy experience....

James K0UA

Well said. But I'm betting The Fred isn't the type to own up and admit his decisions are the problem...

 

[k0ua]

Well said. But I'm betting The Fred isn't the type to own up to admitting his decisions are the problem...

yeah I kinda got that feeling also.

 

[CalG]

Justy a note for anyone wanting to turbo a tractor for any reason. Fun or racing even!

I have NO experience with hot rodding Diesel cycle engines, BUT (I did stay...) OOOPS!

I did notice that the MITSUBISHI K4F series engine is offered in both turbo and non-turbo versions. K4F-D and K4F-DT respectively.

The ENGINE specifications appear to be the same except for output. Max torque speed is upped 200 RPM for the turbo version from the 2000 rpm non turbo.


My tractor is a SDF. and from what I can "see", there are no differences in tractor design, radiator or oil cooling etc. There IS a different intake manifold and throttle linkage to accomodate the added turbo. Plus the oil supply and drain lines.

If I were the OP, and wanted to play around, I would get a copy of the parts listing for the two engines and compare critical differences.

Then I would check the fuel pump TIMING spec.

After all thge turbo parts were fitted,

I would enjoy the difference and scoff at the detractors! Saying to myself, "And they said it couldn't be done" ;-)

If these "tools and toys" don't bring us pleasure, what use are they?

 

[TomSeller]

The OP should first raise the scarifiers so they barely dig. An eight foot land leveler on a hard packed driveway is not going to be a one pass job no matter what HP he has. That manufacturer does not list required tractor pulling data which is odd but 12 scarifiers dug into a driveway would be a challenge, particularly in dry packed, maybe even rocky soil.

http://www.lowerymanufacturing.com/Land Leveler.htm

 

[RaydaKub]

Haven't made the first payment yet if I followed the thread right.
One would have to weigh the cost of this project vs. the loss of trading in the tractor for something bigger.
How much is the warranty worth? That would have to be added to the scale on the side of "cost of the project". If something breaks after the upgrade (assuming it works properly), it likely won't be covered at all.

If it were my wallet, I wouldn't touch this project. But if you have a thick enough wallet to handle repair costs as well as the project itself, go for it. It would seem to me that the thickness would be better used (and time saved) just trading it in though. Either way, the wallet will be thinner.

 

[LD1]

I would enjoy the difference and scoff at the detractors! Saying to myself, "And they said it couldn't be done" ;-)

I dont think a single person said it "cant be done"

What everyone is saying is that it cant be done "cost effectively"

But if someone wants a 50HP L3940 that cost more, and has a weaker loader than biting the bullet and trading up to a L5740 (or whatever), more power to them.

 

[The Fred]

Philip8N, 90Cummins, CalG....

Great info and that pdf file really helps me decide things. It's posters like this that have knowledge enough to share that I need.
I also notice that some of the turbo'd engine rev a bit more, something I wanted to avoid.

I would like to choose the correct size without a bunch of trial and error. I bought a Banks power kit for a Powerstroker Ford I had years ago and it was very well engineered and no BS when I hit the gas pedal, it went as advertised.

Hard to believe there aren't many aftermarket companies that make a kit for this.

To the others who are helping me learn to drive a tractor thanks also...maybe there's a Utube video to show me how to drive???

Fred

 

[CalG]

I dont think a single person said it "cant be done"

What everyone is saying is that it cant be done "cost effectively"

But if someone wants a 50HP L3940 that cost more, and has a weaker loader than biting the bullet and trading up to a L5740 (or whatever), more power to them.

My sentiments exactly! More power to them! I've done stuff for less good reason than that ;-)

 

[CalG]

Duplicate after having been shown a pop up to "leave the page" 'must have hit an extra key '-)

 

[the old grind]

Fred, jumping ranges or searching says the load is just that unsteady, so for the time being I'd run the HDS in man low and for sure not use the ATA feature to get a feel for what you can do before modding. Response Control setting shouldn't matter, but Stall Guard by itself reacting to the load might help you feel out the limits of your current setup. IMO, a tractor whose wheels can't be spun at the crucial point of a task needs some control or throttle adjustment. btw: Your hydraulics are so separated from the HST that an increase in RPM or torque to the pump won't do a thing for loader performance, since system flow & pressure are usually topped out at half throttle or so.

Once the turbo is installed and working the threshold of wheel-spin should be easier to find, and I suspect in more operating modes/ranges. It may take more familiarity with the machine to spin 'em now, but it's still a sign that you're doing all you can to get power to the ground, and that should only help you to use the HST+ stuff to advantage later.

Dragging that 8' land anchor does seem ambitious with hooks down deep. If there's such a thing as reducing their DOC I'd plan on more passes vs more digging per. Once things loosen up, I think your available traction will become more uniform and you'll see if more weight is needed. btw: I'm bettin' you can do the upgrade for less than more, if you know what I mean.