TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #1,031  
Well we bought a Husqvarna YTH24K54 back 2013 and mow more than two acres in SC so mowing season is long and it has 623 hours on it. It has only been used for mowing no towing or implement work period.

It has started not being able to go up hills after it has been mowing for say 20 to 30 minutes. I put a new belt on it and that helped a little, but still quits going up hill and it is much slower than it used to be.

The rest of the mower is kind of worn out too.

How long do there K46 rebuilds last?
 
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   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #1,032  
I took mine apart at least a couple of years ago. I cleaned everything really good, lapped the important faces with fine sandpaper on a surface plate.

I put it back together with 15W-50 mobil 1 because it is relatively cheap (and so am I). I put a new top seal on the prop shaft, used the yamabond semi drying glue to seal it up. I did driil and tap an 1/4" NPT and plug the bottom so I can drain it.

2 years later, it will still almost burn rubber or almost pop the front end up(not quite but it does lurch forward quickly) when you press the forward pedal.

I had bought the replacement spider gear set, but my originals with only about 500 hours still looked great. (I'm a machinist by trade and know how to inspect things like this.) So I went back in with the originals, because the replacements were the pressed powder heat treated type and the originals were all nice and polished with very little wear.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #1,033  
At this age - check the belt and the tensioner arm. I seem to recall some models had something odd with the pivot and double pulley? It hit the frame rail and didn’t travel fully.

Also I seem to remember there were 2 belts- and the catalogs were wrong. 144959 and ? One is 1/2” shorter and keeps the idler from hitting the frame rail.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #1,034  
At this age - check the belt and the tensioner arm. I seem to recall some models had something odd with the pivot and double pulley? It hit the frame rail and didn’t travel fully.

Also I seem to remember there were 2 belts- and the catalogs were wrong. 144959 and ? One is 1/2” shorter and keeps the idler from hitting the frame rail.
I just put new belt on it.

I guess it may be worth dropping out and changing the oil and maybe sanding the mating surfaces.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #1,035  
I just put new belt on it.

I guess it may be worth dropping out and changing the oil and maybe sanding the mating surfaces.
I wouldn’t sand- it will just wear the belt.
Remove mower and move the clutch pedal while checking the double idler pivot to be sure when you release the clutch that it it not hitting the frame. If it is the belt may be the wrong one. 1/2” makes a huge difference.
If it’s not hitting I believe there are a couple of holes in the frame where the idler spring could go. Make sure it is in the furthest slot to put the most tension.
 

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