Trying to attach a Massey-Fergus Model L Post Auger to compact tractor

[sheamus]

I borrowed a MF Model L post auger from someone to use with my Bobcat CT 2035 tractor. It seems to not use the top link of the 3pt hitch. I got it connected, but I can't lift it enough to get the auger off the ground. See the images. Has anyone had any luck getting one of these to work with a modern compact tractor? It seems like I need longer lift arms? I also thought about flipping it upside down, but I would have to remove the gear box and turn it the other way too. I am also wondering; even if I do get longer arms, or flipping it upside down works, it seems like the PTO shaft may not be long enough. They way it is sitting now, I would only have about 3" of overlap on the inner and outer shaft. At full height that would likely only be 1 or 2 inches.... would that be ok? I can't modify it to fit, otherwise I would conside shortening the top link. Has anyone dealt with something similar?

 

[Farmer495]

I'm going to guess it's not going to fit, it needs a "taller" tractor.

 

[sheamus]

I just had someone tell me their father used to have one like it, and you could flip it upside down like I suspected. Trying to decide if it is worth the effort, I am worried some of those old bolts may snap off in the process... they likely haven't moved in 60 years.

 

[old and tired]

Can't really see, is there another hole to mount the "top link" lower or closer to the tractor? Usually, there's 2, 3 or 4 more holes on the top link....

 

[Lgim]

You could try dropping the beam down to the lower hole on your tractor. I think there is a hole 2-3 inches lower but I can't see on your pic - shadows on black paint. 2 inches on the tractor end would probably make 6 inches higher on the drill end.
The only other thing I might try would be making your arms longer but that might be a little sketchy.

g

 

[sheamus]

Can't really see, is there another hole to mount the "top link" lower or closer to the tractor? Usually, there's 2, 3 or 4 more holes on the top link....

Now that you say that, I have seen that on larger tractors. But I don't have it on this one.

 

[pmsmechanic]

The way I see it you have several options. Shortening the top link as mentioned is one. That could be your best option as it gives you more overlap for the pto shaft. That could also give you more leverage to lift the auger higher.

You could remove the U shaped piece from the top of the frame and move it to the bottom. That's probably the route I would go if your pto shaft is still long enough. The reason for that is because flipping the frame isn't going to move the U shaped piece closer to the tractor. Whereas if you drill 4 holes in the bottom of the frame you can also move the U piece closer to the tractor at the same time.

You could also move the gear box higher on the frame but I don't see as many benefits to that idea.

I bought a factory Ford post hole auger at an auction sale for $40. It was designed to fit the N series Ford tractors. I just went and built a whole new frame for it as I didn't want to modify the factory Ford frame. Building a different frame would be another option.

 

[sheamus]

The way I see it you have several options. Shortening the top link as mentioned is one. That could be your best option as it gives you more overlap for the pto shaft. That could also give you more leverage to lift the auger higher.

You could remove the U shaped piece from the top of the frame and move it to the bottom. That's probably the route I would go if your pto shaft is still long enough. The reason for that is because flipping the frame isn't going to move the U shaped piece closer to the tractor. Whereas if you drill 4 holes in the bottom of the frame you can also move the U piece closer to the tractor at the same time.

You could also move the gear box higher on the frame but I don't see as many benefits to that idea.

I bought a factory Ford post hole auger at an auction sale for $40. It was designed to fit the N series Ford tractors. I just went and built a whole new frame for it as I didn't want to modify the factory Ford frame. Building a different frame would be another option.

These are good options if I owned it. I am borrowing it. The guy I am borrowing for likely hasn't used it in 30 years, but he isn't interested in getting rid of it.

The brackets for the U piece are welded on. So flipping it would push those arms down 3-4" (height of frame, plus bit bracket height). Which may just be enough... though it is a lot of work to find out.

If it was mine, I'd build a new frame for sure. On the side not shown the frame has a decent crack in it by the U bracket. I welded a piece of flat iron on to fix it. Told the guy I'd do that for him as payment.

 

[Lgim]

My other thought was to extend the length of your arms. Something like a foot of square tube, slide it over your arm bolt it solid and then drill a hole at the other end to go over the pins on the auger. your arms would be longer so they lift higher and give a better angle to the beam to lift higher.

But if you have to go buy the tubing it might be cheaper to buy a new auger.

g

 

[old and tired]

Since you borrowed the PHD, ask about borrowing his tractor too...

 

[pmsmechanic]

Since you borrowed the PHD, ask about borrowing his tractor too...

That was another option I thought of but forgot to mention!

 

[pmsmechanic]

The brackets for the U piece are welded on.

Just make your own brackets and fasten them on underneath. Don't drill any holes just bolt then on with a clamp system. It doesn't even need to be overly robust as you can brace the clamp up against the top brackets.

I don't know how many holes you have to dig but it's almost sounding easier to go and dig the holes by hand.

 

[sheamus]

Haha. Yeah, he is my wife's great uncle and lives over 100km away, and hist tractor is likely 10,000lbs, so even a car hauler wouldn't get it here.

I thought about building an extension...

I couldn't stop thinking about it, so I went out and took it apart and flipped the gear box so I could get more lift. But at 90% lift it over centers. Even if I was careful not to go past 90%, that geometry puts a lot of strain on things. The frame is so bent on it, I could barely adjust my lift arm enough to get it vertical. By the time I got it straightened, I only had about 70% lift before the one arm over centered.

While working on it, I also noticed that the gear box is cracked. I could try and weld it, but welding cast likely wouldn't take that well or be that strong. With my luck it would fly apart on the first hole I dig.

If it was mine, or he'd sell it for $100, I'd build a new frame as mentioned before, and take my chances with the gear box. But I think for now, I am officially done with it.

I did my best to save a buck, but I am just going to buy the Princess Auto (Canadian Harbour Frieght). They are $1000CAD which is half of what people are asking for used Frontier/Woods/Land Pride augers. For the 200 holes I do this year, it will be good enough.

 

[Lgim]

Which leads to the next question. The owner hasn't used it in 30 yrs, will it attach to his tractor?

 

[CliffordK]

Since you borrowed the PHD, ask about borrowing his tractor too...

Has the tractor been started in the last 50 years? That could be a whole different can of worms!!!

 

[CliffordK]

You could get the digger as high as it goes. Then a scoop or two with a shovel and you could pre-drill the hole by 6" and give you adequate clearance. A bit of a pain to use, but perhaps possible.

The cracked gearbox is another issue though. I wouldn't use it with the crack. So, a repair is probably in the future. Reinforce it too?

 

[sheamus]

Haha, yeah he loaded it in truck with the old tractor. I think I have convinced the wife we can buy one.