Truck radiator flush questions

[thatguy]

My 2002 Dodge/Cummins only has 60k miles and I have never changed the antifreeze.. While im doing the antifreeze Im going to go ahead and change both radiator hoses and the thermostat..

Couple questions for the wise ppl on here

1) Do I really need to 'flush' the block or would it be ok to just drain all that I can get out of the radiator/block and refill? If so, is there an easy way to do this while i have the hoses off?

2) The radiator hoses are the constant tension (not the screw type).. Do I need to replace those as well or can I reuse them?

thoughts..

Brian

 

[Egon]

I take my 96 to a shop for antifreeze changes and flush. They can flush better than myself and also have the means to deal with the old antifreeze.

The truck still has the original hoses and clamps on it.

 

[thatguy]

I think the local walmart and the landfill can take the old antifreeze... I was trying to save money by doing it myself..

Brian

 

[Cat_Driver]

A complete flush is always better than only doing 1/2 a flush by leaving the old stuff in the block.

Changing hoses is cheap insurance while you have her opened up. Better to change a hose in the driveway rather than on the freeway. Keep the old ones as spares on a long road trip.

Now if there is a lot of corrosion or build up then you need the radiator dipped in a tank and cleaned out, you know all those tiny holes.

 

[Bird]

I used to do all that myself, but like Egon, I now let the dealer do it. And yes, I'd rather flush it than just drain and refill, and to answer your other question, I much prefer to use new screw type clamps; I would not trust the constant tension ones at this point myself.

 

[WH401]

My 2002 Dodge/Cummins only has 60k miles and I have never changed the antifreeze.. While im doing the antifreeze Im going to go ahead and change both radiator hoses and the thermostat..

Couple questions for the wise ppl on here

1) Do I really need to 'flush' the block or would it be ok to just drain all that I can get out of the radiator/block and refill? If so, is there an easy way to do this while i have the hoses off?

2) The radiator hoses are the constant tension (not the screw type).. Do I need to replace those as well or can I reuse them?

thoughts..

Brian

I'd head on over to Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource - Cummins - Home and read up on it in the 2nd Gen 24 Valve forums. There's an interesting topic about this currently going on in the 3rd Gen forums about how you aren't able to get all of the coolant out, so you shouldn't replace what you take out with a 50/50 premix because it will change the ratio of water/coolant in the entire system which could be detrimental. I wouldn't worry about the hoses, not until they start to show cracks or aging.

 

[thatguy]

I'd head on over to Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource - Cummins - Home and read up on it in the 2nd Gen 24 Valve forums. There's an interesting topic about this currently going on in the 3rd Gen forums about how you aren't able to get all of the coolant out, so you shouldn't replace what you take out with a 50/50 premix because it will change the ratio of water/coolant in the entire system which could be detrimental. I wouldn't worry about the hoses, not until they start to show cracks or aging.

thanks.. I did check that out..

there are dozens of ways to flush the system it seems.. LOL

My big concern is that most of the 'flushes' says to use a garden hose to keep the radiator filled.. BUT I have hard water and that is not a good thing to have in the system.. I think i will just by a lot of distilled water and flush it that way..

thanks
Brian

 

[WTA]

Do not let some quick lube or tire shop do a flush on anything on your trucks. It's a serious scam they got going on. I was a mechanic for a long time and have seen it all. The flush the old stuff out with recycled crap at most of them. That's about worthless.

Just drain and refill. It's all it needs, won't hurt anything and isn't going to open up any leaks. I use 50/50 premix in all my diesels and I keep a bottle of straight antifreeze around too in case I have to adjust it.
If you have a diesel make sure you have the test strips for it and a good antifreeze tester. It needs to be at a 50-50 ratio according to the tester and you also have to make sure the test strips say your acid protection level is in the right place. It's easy to adjust that with additives. Ford Powerstroks and IDI engines use an additive from the international dealer called DCA but I use it in all of my diesels. Not just the powerstrokes.

Don't let any shops scam you into that flushing garbage. That's all it is is a scam. I've called a lot of the dealers on the carpet over those machines before when they tried to sell me one. Just drain and fill and check the levels after you run it a bit then adjust as needed. MUCH less waste, much less cost and it will not hurt a thing!

 

[WH401]

thanks.. I did check that out..

there are dozens of ways to flush the system it seems.. LOL

My big concern is that most of the 'flushes' says to use a garden hose to keep the radiator filled.. BUT I have hard water and that is not a good thing to have in the system.. I think i will just by a lot of distilled water and flush it that way..

thanks
Brian

Yeah I know what you mean, everyone has a flush method lol. I agree with the garden hose concern, and I also have very hard water too, when I need to do mine I'll just buy lots of distilled water. The flush thread that I mentioned is currently going on in the 3rd Gen forum, the original poster went through about 35+ gallons of distilled. Though I doubt you'll need that much because he was purposefully excessively flushing it. You could always get a shop manual for your specific year and see what it says. Not to mention the shop manual will be handy for anything else. Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories Geno's Garage sells them here

 

[masscity]

I have a 97 Dodge cummins with 210k miles on it. I have changed every hose on my engine instead of waiting for them to break.

I change my coolant every two years. I use prestone and distilled water 50/50.

To get the most of the coolant out, I put my front axle into a deep ditch and I can get about 5 1/2 gals out. Make sure the brakes are on and you block it good.

An old radiator man told me that the best way to ruin a radiator is to use the store bought radiator flushes in the bottle.

My coolant always looks like that of a new truck.

 

[thatguy]

Does this seem like a decent plan.. Which is a hybrid of a bunch of posts if found online

1) drain all i can by using the petcock and by removing both hoses..
2) remove the thermostat and pour distilled water into the engine block until full
3) reinstall the NEW upper hose to the engine only - reinstall NEW lower hose completely
4) fill radiator with distilled water
5) run engine while while keeping the radiator full and catch the over flow from the upper hose until clear water comes out.
6) redrain radiator
7) Add 3 gallons of pure antifreeze (total system take about 6 gallons) so this should give me a 50/50 mix
8) top off radiator and engine block with distilled water
9)re-install NEW thermostat and attach upper hose
10) clean out overflow bottle and fill with 50/50 mix as needed
11) check protection with one of the bulb testers

As far as the 'cleaners' I read a lot of post talking about how they are not good.. They just knock the junk loose in the radiator and it gets caught in the heater core and other areas..


thanks
brian

 

[kenmac]

My 07 owners manual calls for HOAT antifreeze with a distilled water mix. not tap water

 

[QRTRHRS]

I would add some DCHL additive (did I get that right) if it was mine. If you are worried about your water, you can buy 50/50 blended antifreeze with DCHL already mixed in with it. Danged if I can remember the brand. I used to pick it up at a tractor dealer but you can find it at truck parts places as well.

I never liked those clamps myself but always having too many vehicles and equipment around keeps me budget minded. MY 97' Dodge still had them on when I sold it at 228k.

 

[dmccarty]

There are ELC(Extended Life Coolants) you can use as well. My 2002 Ford's coolant was rated to last five years. When I replaced it at five years the test strip said it was still good. But it was on the low side and needed to be replaced.

I did some research and JD sells the same type of coolant just a different color. So the JD coolant is in the Ford.

The book says to change every three years after the first five years.

Hmmm. Getting close to three years...... Better go check my log books on when I changed the coolant.

Later,
Dan

 

[thatguy]

I would add some DCHL additive (did I get that right) if it was mine. If you are worried about your water, you can buy 50/50 blended antifreeze with DCHL already mixed in with it. Danged if I can remember the brand. I used to pick it up at a tractor dealer but you can find it at truck parts places as well.

I never liked those clamps myself but always having too many vehicles and equipment around keeps me budget minded. MY 97' Dodge still had them on when I sold it at 228k.

Are the DCHL and SCA antifreeze additives the same thing? Google didnt turn up what DCHL additives are..

From everything I read the SCA (supplemental coolant additives) are not needed with the 24V- ISB cummins. Just 50/50 low silicate antifreeze

Cummins Southern Plains - ISB Engine RV Maintenance & Operation

thanks for all the help/advise

brian

 

[QRTRHRS]

Are the DCHL and SCA antifreeze additives the same thing? Google didnt turn up what DCHL additives are..

From everything I read the SCA (supplemental coolant additives) are not needed with the 24V- ISB cummins. Just 50/50 low silicate antifreeze

Cummins Southern Plains - ISB Engine RV Maintenance & Operation

thanks for all the help/advise

brian

Pretty much I guess. I was looking for one of my old jugs that I recall having the "DCHL" in it. I don't recall if that was someting brand specific or if the formulation was changed for enviromental purposes or something. I know that Fleetguard uses something they call DCA4.

Do a search on diesel cavitation. At the pickup truck level, that was more of a Ford 6.9-7.3 issue but can happen in most any diesel. Though a different use, a lot of fleet owners will "spike" truck cooling systems with the additives rather than flushing the system as often in order to economize.

I had used Fleetguard and some other brands in my 12V Cummins as well as my other diesels. What I would do is consult the owners manual if still under warrenty. You mentioned that you did some reading? Was that on the Dodge Cummins forums? Lots of good info out there.