Troy Built... Horse?

[2manyrocks]

The belt number and the SN range look correct, but I'm assuming the stock photo of the belt is just a generic belt because the stock Troy Bilt belt is too short to be looped around again. The last one I bought came from Tractor Supply co. NAPA might be another source, but I haven't looked.

I had no clue you could find belts on Amazon. com.

 

[Jafo232]

The belt number and the SN range look correct, but I'm assuming the stock photo of the belt is just a generic belt because the stock Troy Bilt belt is too short to be looped around again. The last one I bought came from Tractor Supply co. NAPA might be another source, but I haven't looked.

I had no clue you could find belts on Amazon. com.

I did not either but once MTD kept refusing the order I googled and it came up. I asked the seller if that was the actual pic because it looked like two belts and also noted that the word exceeds was spelled wrong and they promptly wrote back:

this is just one belt .. some other seller or amazon made this page not us and amazon wont let us change any of the info .... the amazon system will give a break on shipping not sure how much but what you do is put this belt in your cart and update it to 2 belts and it should show what the shipping is before you do the order

i have a big list of pages on amazon that have bad info if i can ever get amazon to fix them

I don't really see a choice, and since the seller answered so fast it gives me a good feeling about them, so I think I will give it a shot.

 

[2manyrocks]

Well, beats driving all over town looking for a belt. If get one that fits, chances are you can measure it and order whatever you want after that.

 

[boxygen]

All the info that I have ever read about my horse seem to stress a "matched" set of belts whenever they are replaced. I seem to remember reading that in my manual. I think they only come in a set when you order them from MTD, I bought some last year but havent installed them yet. You might have trouble finding one that is close enough. I've always struggled with the logic a bit, it seems like the longer one would stretch and they will eventually equalize, however I thought I would mention it.

 

[2manyrocks]

Yes, getting both at one makes better sense.

 

[Jafo232]

Just wanted to wrap this up. The belts came in (2 day delivery!). I found the manual here (Horse I). I didn't follow the directions to remove the belts, well, I just cut the old belts off.

Getting the new belts on is not a walk in park. The real problem is that there is no good way to describe it lol. You have to loosen the little metal block that adjusts the tension on the belts, in fact I just removed it. It is located on the pivot point of the shifter. Basically, put the thing in neutral, slide both belts on the TOP pulley and slide them both all the way towards the engine, then work the first belt furthest from the engine back (away from engine) and get it on the first pulley (furthest from engine). It takes a bit and if you can get a helper to move the shifter (watch your fingers!) you can get it. I also found putting a wrench on the bolt on the top pulley helped spin the pulleys making it easier to get the belts on.

Once you get the belts on, it is time to put that metal block back on but set it so the tension is more loose than it was with the old belts. The new belts are much tighter than the old and you take a chance of starting it and it taking off, even if you think you have it in neutral. If you find the belt is still too loose, adjust it tighter (with the engine off). I put it on basically the lowest setting I could.

It worked GREAT. Darn thing tore through the garden like water. It was an AMAZING difference.

Thanks everyone here for your help!!!

 

[2manyrocks]

Just watch out for rocks. There's another thread where the poster is asking how to weld his tines after putting on new belt and then breaking some tines. Apparently, his old belts had enough give that he didn't start breaking tines until he put on new belts.

 

[bontai_Joe]

Just watch out for rocks. There's another thread where the poster is asking how to weld his tines after putting on new belt and then breaking some tines. Apparently, his old belts had enough give that he didn't start breaking tines until he put on new belts.

Breaking tines? Gotta be aftermarket tines, I have never EVER broken a tine on a Troy-Bilt and I've run thru all kinds of rock, boulders, buried car parts, iron rods, tree roots, cement chunks, with out breaking any tines. I remember there were some Korean tines on the market with 3 holes in each tine that got a bad reputation (OEM tines had 2 holes). They were cheaper, but you got what you paid for.

 

[honorbound]

Belts can be ordered through a small engine shop. As for the tine if they are the regular or the hardened tines from Troy they wont break unless they are worn down completely. Tines run aprox 250 dollars for the hardened tine, they have a welded edge, or around 130-160 for the regular bolo tine set. Both sets are available. I just replace the tines on my horse tiller which were worn and I bought the hardened bolo tines.

 

[2manyrocks]

The original bolo tines were about $57 when I bought my tiller in 1982 as I recall. Now if I could just find that set I bought and put aside....