Tricks to make you welds stronger

[muddstopper]

Seems lots of folks, and I am including myself, need help sticking two pieces of metal together. Nobody wants to have to weld it twice, but just dont know what it takes to make a weld strong. This isnt limited to wire, stick or tig. And shouldnt have anything to do with 120v or 220v. Just a list of some of the things that should be done before the first arc is struck. I'll let someone else start the list.

 

[ericher69]

Clean off any rust, oil, mill scale off the pieces to be welded and...grind a spot for your ground clamp!

Sent from my iPhone 5s 64Gb using TractorByNet

 

[sixdogs]

I'm just an advanced beginner but have learned to use enough power to assure good penetration of the weld.

 

[k0ua]

Know what the composition is of the metals you are attempting to join. Different metals require different procedures to successfully join.

 

[bcp]

Know what the composition is of the metals you are attempting to join. Different metals require different procedures to successfully join.

Spark test?

The Spark Test and Spark Testing Metals | Scrap Metal Junkie

Bruce

 

[Gary Fowler]

1. Thoroughly cleaning the two pieces to remove anything on it other than bright metal is the best few minutes you can spend to begin to make a good weld.
2. Keep all the wind off the weld during the welding process to avoid porosity, don't let water contact your weld whether rain, snow or other moisture from condensation (dew).
3. A little preheat on cold mornings to remove the moisture is best.
4. Use properly stored rods, damp rods don't usually make good welds.
5. Grind out any slag inclusions prior to making the next pass.
6. Set the amperage correctly, too many or not enough and you will not have the strongest weld. The rod should start easily and not stick but it should not be so many amps that it is blowing off buckshot and the electrode is glowing red when half burned.
7. Keep your electrode to work (arc length) the same at all times. This is very important for low hydrogen rods as long arcing will cause porosity.
8. Work on your timing for side to side weave so that you are doing the same "frequency" of side to side. Most rods require a fast speed across the middle with a slight hesitant beat at each side as in a 1 across the middle then a 1-2 at the side then a 1 back across and a 1-2 repeat all the way.
9. It really isn't that hard to make a good weld. The secret to a smooth and pretty weld plus a stronger weld is to keep your speed of advancement the same, while keeping the constantly shorter rod at the same height, and the weave the same staying the same width all the time, while watching the puddle for any inconsistency like porosity forming or slag entrapment and if not flat welding, keeping that liquid puddle running up hill. NOTHING TO IT.

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

Seems lots of folks, and I am including myself, need help sticking two pieces of metal together. Nobody wants to have to weld it twice, but just dont know what it takes to make a weld strong. This isnt limited to wire, stick or tig. And shouldnt have anything to do with 120v or 220v. Just a list of some of the things that should be done before the first arc is struck. I'll let someone else start the list.

Don't "ride the puddle" - make sure you are cutting into metal with the arc.

This video shows what I mean very well:
MIG Welding Basics: Part 4 - welding-tv.com | welding-tv.com

 

[firemanmike69]

Gary I agree with all but one of your points, don't just learn to do "timing " patterns and learn to read the puddle. Timing patterns are ok when your starting out but as soon as anything changes then you won't be able to read the puddle to know to run a bit wider or narrower faster or slower, or holding your corners longer.
As others have said get the parent metal clean clean clean. Take the extra time to get your prep and fit up correct it will make a big difference in how the end weldment turns out

 

[Jw5875]

bcp

Man I thought that info was dead! I remember my 10th grade shop teacher (early 60's) making us do that "Spark Test". Over the years during conversations on metal etc. I mentioned this and people thought I was nuts.
Thank You for posting it and I have bookmarked it, along with printing it and keeping it in the shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

jw5875

Know what the composition is of the metals you are attempting to join. Different metals require different procedures to successfully join.

 

[mikehaugen]

Spark test?

The Spark Test and Spark Testing Metals | Scrap Metal Junkie

Bruce

Good info, I have noticed a difference in grinding different metals, but have never thought of using that to identify the metals.

 

[Big Barn]

bcp Man I thought that info was dead! I remember my 10th grade shop teacher (early 60's) making us do that "Spark Test". Over the years during conversations on metal etc. I mentioned this and people thought I was nuts. Thank You for posting it and I have bookmarked it, along with printing it and keeping it in the shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! jw5875

I think you,bcp and I are from the same era. Identifying metals with the spark test was part of my metalworking course in high school.

Terry

 

[bcp]

I think you,bcp and I are from the same era. Identifying metals with the spark test was part of my metalworking course in high school.

Terry

Probably. High school in the 50's.

Bruce

 

[dragoneggs]

Probably. High school in the 50's.

Bruce

Crap... my hair is grey, but you guys are old!

 

[Al Mac]

I don't weld much and that is one of the problems as I only do it when it is needed. Some great tips that I never done in the past.
I did have a tricky problem a few years ago with location and not getting the other material hot.
I used WURTH Protective Welding Spray and it worked great.
Here is a link. Hope it works.

WURTH Product Demo Protective Welding Spray&Paste A6 AK7 Rod and Neil - YouTube

Al

 

[Gary Fowler]

Gary I agree with all but one of your points, don't just learn to do "timing " patterns and learn to read the puddle. Timing patterns are ok when your starting out but as soon as anything changes then you won't be able to read the puddle to know to run a bit wider or narrower faster or slower, or holding your corners longer.
As others have said get the parent metal clean clean clean. Take the extra time to get your prep and fit up correct it will make a big difference in how the end weldment turns out

You are right off course, watching the puddle is automatic after you learn the basics of rod angle, speed of advancement etc. but beginners have to time count to begin with so that they keep things uniform. After welding for a while it becomes automatic and like I said in #9, watch the puddle. Another thing I forgot to mention is selecting the correct lens shade. You have to be able to see the puddle and the parent material to be able to see what you are doing. TOO dark and you wont be able to see anything, too light and it will be like walking in the bright sun without sunshades so your eyes will be squinting. For most welding using homeowner power, you wont need anything darker than a #10 and may even need a #9 for small rods. It may seem backward, but you need to use a darker shade when welding inside and a lighter shade when welding in the bright sunlight. In the sun your eyes pupils are pinpointed so you need a lighter shade to be able to see the weld puddle clearly whereas inside the pupils are dilated and don't require as much light to see clearly.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Good info, I have noticed a difference in grinding different metals, but have never thought of using that to identify the metals.

Heck, I thought everyone had their own $50K nuclear analyzer or spectrographic analyzer for alloy ID. Actually you can buy the nuke analyzer for about $18K but the programs to ID all the different alloys run about $30K more which is kind of ridiculously priced.

 

[gwdixon]

Wow, some very good tips in this thread. Maybe it will make a sticky status.

One thing I've seen in welds that hasn't been mentioned yet is the necessity to grind a bevel to help the weld penetrate and hold. It is another "preparation" thing.

On some of the used equipment I've purchased there have been places cracked or broken where the repair was just pasted on top of the crack without the preparation of "V-ing" out the crack. These welds are very prone to failure.

Any plate or bar that is welded side-to-side or end-to-end could use a bevel as well. If beveling can be done from both sides then warpage is reduced and a 100% weld can be achieved more easily.

I tend to make a root pass on everything with 6011 (or 6010 for you pros). It really digs into the metal but is butt-ugly with my skills.

Then a pretty cover pass, or passes, is made with 7018.

 

[flusher]

Good advice so far.

Weld two-handed for better control.

Watch the edge of the puddle. You need good tie in between the puddle and the work piece to get a strong weld. If you don't know what tie in is, check welding videos on YouTube.

If I have to weld in tight spaces, I sometimes cut the full length rod in half. I have better control of a shorter rod. I use a bolt cutter and remove the flux from the end piece by crimping it in a bench vise and cleaning off the remaining flux with the bench grinder.

Good luck

 

[muddstopper]

I dont remember welding in the 50's, but it was late 60s when I first grabbed a stinger. We didnt have youtube back then. I think the internet and videos can be one of the best tools in the tool box for someone just starting out. Not sure of the type of rod, type in welding rods and a ton of info pops up. Not sure of the amps, type in amps to weld xxx an plenty of info. Not everybody can accept the info they can easily find. Always someone that buys a welder and claims to be a expert, ready to help a friend out with their broken parts and setting them up for heart breaks and disappointments. Those folks totally ignore the advice of experts and manufacturers, We cant do anything about those attitudes . But I think the best advice I can give someone starting out welding is read all you can, watch as many videos as you can, and if you know a real expert, become his best buddy. My local tech school has nite welding classes, cost isnt that much. You can get a degree there or you can just learn enough to get by for your hobby projects. Dont even have to attend every class, (unless you are trying for a degree or certification).- Cheap reliable training at your own pace. Cant beat that. Take the training and read all the information you can find, talk to your new best welding buddy, before you even buy a welder and you will be making expert welds in no time. Oh, and dont make your first arc on something that needs to be done right. Find some scrap and practice making beads, get your new welding buddy to help, or at least get his opinions.

 

[newbury]

Seems lots of folks, and I am including myself, need help sticking two pieces of metal together. Nobody wants to have to weld it twice, but just dont know what it takes to make a weld strong. This isnt limited to wire, stick or tig. And shouldnt have anything to do with 120v or 220v. Just a list of some of the things that should be done before the first arc is struck. I'll let someone else start the list.

I noticed you left out O/A

A lot of the previous posters have ton's of experience. I've virtually none.
BUT
IF you've limited experience.
Before the first arc is struck plan your moves, hook everything up and pantomine your moves. Make sure everything you have to reach is handy and the leads don't get in the way.
Know your materials, don't try and weld 10 gauge sheet metal with 1/8 electrode and 100 amps unless you are REALLY good. I did (because it was all I had) and it was a holy experience, talk about penetration!
Look at a LOT of welds - here, Youtube and welding sites so you can tell a "cold weld" without penetration from a decent weld without beating the manure out of it.
PPE includes something to get rid of the smoke and something to put out fire.
I liked to use my little $25 HF IR thermometer gun to quickly check temps, remember it's still hot after it stops glowing.

Then after the "first arc" is struck
Burn a bunch of different rods/wire and metal thicknesses so you can get a feel for different combinations, take pictures and annotate with amps and materials.
After you can run a decent bead and make a pad of beads try some flat welds with what you plan to use for your first project and beat the manure out of it. Or put it in your 25 ton press.
If you just bought a welder because you HAVE TO FIX SOMETHING NOW consider the tradeoffs of having it done right the first time. Please don't make your first project something that if it fails injury may result. My first project was patching a hole on my brush hog deck, if it fails I'll do it again but no injury should result.

And practice, practice, practice.

/edit classes are nice if convenient, for me it would be an hour drive, not convenient