jwstewar
Elite Member
I disagree with this. You will find many quality rigs out there for well under that price.
travel trailors
- Thread starter buckeyefarmer
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I disagree with this. You will find many quality rigs out there for well under that price.
/pine
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2009
- Messages
- 12,450
This entirely depends on what one deems as "quality" especially when considering both materials and craftsmanship...In my opinion the main difference between cheaper trailers and more expensive ones are the quality of the materials and the way they are put together...not the amenities
hitekcountry
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2004
- Messages
- 489
- Location
- Ca. Mountains west of Silicon Valley
- Tractor
- Kabota 6100 Kabota L35
Once you get your selection down to where you think you know what you want, take a trip in a rented unit that is close to what you plan to buy. You'll discover some thing to be important to you that you hadn't thought about. It will change your opinion on some things and reinforce your decision on others.
Phils
Platinum Member
This is easier in a fifthwheel, but would apply to any RV IMO.
Crawl into the storage compartment, all the way in, then lay on your back and look at the fit/finish/construction.
I did this when we were looking to replace our last fiver. It's a "revealing" look at the way the RV is constructed. You are looking at places nobody at the manufacturer thought you would.
Phil
Crawl into the storage compartment, all the way in, then lay on your back and look at the fit/finish/construction.
I did this when we were looking to replace our last fiver. It's a "revealing" look at the way the RV is constructed. You are looking at places nobody at the manufacturer thought you would.
Phil
Bird
Rest in Peace
I suppose the effort to keep the weight down means flimsy construction. I think any RV, at least any under $200k, is going to require lots of maintenance. At least that's been my experience with a 1971 10.5' slide-in Sandpiper pickup camper, a 1972 25' long Holiday Vacationer travel trailer, a 1973 18' Winnebago Brave motorhome, a 1975 18' Horizon by NuWay travel trailer, a 1988 32' Carri-Lite 5th wheel, and a 1992 40' Bounder motorhome. In addition to vacations, we were full time RVers for 6 years, both my brothers are still full timers, one used to be an RV salesman, an RV service technician, and an RV dealership F&I manager. The other is still self-employed as an RV service technician.
Yes, there are many things you can look at as to the quality of the RV. Things like type of framing, roof material used, exterior siding, wiring, type of insulation, does it have shock absorbers or not, axle/tire/wheel weight capacity, size of brakes, thickness and quality of seat cushions, type and size of bed/mattress, quality of fabrics, quality of cabinetry, and too many things for me to continue listing.
But in the final analysis, in my opinion, the most important thing . . . . is it a floorplan that both you and your wife like?
Yes, there are many things you can look at as to the quality of the RV. Things like type of framing, roof material used, exterior siding, wiring, type of insulation, does it have shock absorbers or not, axle/tire/wheel weight capacity, size of brakes, thickness and quality of seat cushions, type and size of bed/mattress, quality of fabrics, quality of cabinetry, and too many things for me to continue listing.
But in the final analysis, in my opinion, the most important thing . . . . is it a floorplan that both you and your wife like?
RobertN
Super Member
I found out a cople things since we bought a used 10 year old 5th wheel a couple months ago. Had it on a 200 mile trip, and a 4410 mile trip.
- The 5th wheel tows soooooo much nicer than any pull behind I have ever towed; travel trailer, tractor/flatbe, utility trailer.
- The ride was much better with the 5th wheel weight over the rear axle of the truck
- Look for leaks, inside and out. Any moisture you see on the inside, means there may be issues behing the wall, in the ceiling
- Check the roof, and then double check it. Check every seam, all the vents, antaneas, drip rails.
- Check the corners, and all the trim on the corners. Is it in place properly? Is it caulked properly?
I poured over this 5th wheel wheel for over an hour. Got it from a used lot; the salesman was amazed; noon had ever looked that close that he had ever seen. Even so... my rubber roof tore loose on our way back from Texas. Fortunaltey, it was close to home, in warm dry weather. When I was on top stripping the old roof, I found dry rot, just a little. I have no idea how it happened, because ever seam, joint, vent seemed well installed and sealed.
The other thing is, stay off your rubber roof! They are not made to be walked on. The roof itself is not real strong; usually 2x2 with 3/8 OSB. The rubber roof itself, is pretty strong, but easily damged if you get up there, or try to put stuff up there.
I learned a lot replacing my roof. I was fortunate; I have two friends who have done years of RV repair for work. I got a quote; $5k to have a shop reroof my 27' rig. I did it for parts; I am still in it for $900 or so.
- The 5th wheel tows soooooo much nicer than any pull behind I have ever towed; travel trailer, tractor/flatbe, utility trailer.
- The ride was much better with the 5th wheel weight over the rear axle of the truck
- Look for leaks, inside and out. Any moisture you see on the inside, means there may be issues behing the wall, in the ceiling
- Check the roof, and then double check it. Check every seam, all the vents, antaneas, drip rails.
- Check the corners, and all the trim on the corners. Is it in place properly? Is it caulked properly?
I poured over this 5th wheel wheel for over an hour. Got it from a used lot; the salesman was amazed; noon had ever looked that close that he had ever seen. Even so... my rubber roof tore loose on our way back from Texas. Fortunaltey, it was close to home, in warm dry weather. When I was on top stripping the old roof, I found dry rot, just a little. I have no idea how it happened, because ever seam, joint, vent seemed well installed and sealed.
The other thing is, stay off your rubber roof! They are not made to be walked on. The roof itself is not real strong; usually 2x2 with 3/8 OSB. The rubber roof itself, is pretty strong, but easily damged if you get up there, or try to put stuff up there.
I learned a lot replacing my roof. I was fortunate; I have two friends who have done years of RV repair for work. I got a quote; $5k to have a shop reroof my 27' rig. I did it for parts; I am still in it for $900 or so.
