Transporting a 2615 w/FEL

[whiteh2o]

I will probably should be posting this in the transporting thread, however, I wanted specific model advice. I have a 7000 gvw dove tail car hauler I will be using to move the tractor to it's final home (when I get 'built') and in the mean time I will need to move it back and forth to a storage location because I'm not going to leave it out in the middle of 2 bare acreas for easy picking. I have never attached a tractor to the trailer.

I have 70 grade trucker chains and binders. Where is a safe place to lock down the front end and read end of the tractor? Do I use web slings around those areas on the tractor (i.e., 2" x 6' 6400 lb web slings) and then attach the chains and binders to them so there's no metal to metal or do I just use the chains/binders? How do the other members do it without fabrication and welding rings to the tractor?

On a side note: Does anyone see any issue using 2 heavy duty 8500 lb tow straps wrapped about the FEL (at the arm locations) to pickup the box scraper or blade and loading it on the trailer or the back of the pickup? The box scraper is 530 +/- few lbs and thats well below the lift capacity of the FEL. The blade can almost me moved by two men.

Thanks in advance!

 

[bill6]

Hi White (water); your tractor w/FEL weighs about 3130 lbs, you should be fine as far as gross weight. What I have done in the past is park the machine on the trailer at a location that accounts for the desired tongue weight. Then I set the parking brake, and used a chain and binder with the chain attached to the rear axle. On the front, I used a chain around the front axle, then ran it under the loader bucket. In each case, I cushioned the chain with a blanket so I would not scratch any paint. Good luck to you....

 

[RedRiver]

Good advice from Bill! I also put the tractor in gear in case for some reason the parking brake comes disengaged during transport.

 

[whiteh2o]

Bill,

Thanks for the info! Do you use a chain on each side of the axel on both the front and rear (4 chains, 2 on each axel) or 1 one chain wrapped around both sides of the axel on each end (2 chains, 1 on each axel). I have attached a copy of the sling I mentioned. It is a 6400 web sling for load strapping. They are not that expensive from Harbor F.

Any comment on using the FEL to lift implements with a tow strap? It will be a while before I can weld grab hooks on the loader.

Thanks

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

I believe DOT requires attachment on all 4 corners plus one holding down the loader and one on any 3ph attachment, you may have attached. As long as your attachment strap is rated enough to cover the weight of the load your strap should be fine, but I believe you would have to have one on each corner. At least this is how it is here in NY state. One strap on each corner, each one rated enough to cover the weight of your whole load.

 

[Nissan197]

I would check with your states DOT. When I first purchased my tractor I had the tractor w/fel, rotary cutter, and box blade on my 16' trailer. That day I sure wish I had an 18' trailer at least. I had chains through the front axle, over the rear implements and a 10,000 lb rated strap going over the middle of the tractor. I had used just one chain through the front attached to two sides of the trailer, same with the back. Thankfully the house is completed and I don't haul the tractor back and forth anymore. I was in the same vote as you and did not want to leave the tractor. Heck, I still hate leaving the tractor outside even when I am home.

 

[whiteh2o]

Thanks!....I had planned on all 4 corners all along, but I had to check. I just didn't want to mess up front end tie rods or something like that. Those straps are rated at 6400 lbs. Well over the weight of the tractor and loader.

 

[George2615]

There have been many threads on the pros and cons of using straps. Most use chains from what I have read.

Here's my 2 cents for what its worth. I transport my 2615HST regularly on a 7K tiltbed trailer. I use 4 chains. In the beginning I ran the front chains over the loader frame that is bolted to the tractor. Later I welded on 2 d-rings (see pic) to the bottom of that frame and run the chains through them to the d-rings on the trailer with ratchet binders. On the rear I attached 2 grab hooks to existing holes in the lower lift arms and connect my chains to them. I ratchet all 4 corners tight and haven't had a problem yet. I have made a few panic stops where idiots pulled out in front of me and the tractor never moved.
When I put the tractor on the trailer it's in low range, in 4 wheel drive and the brake pedal is locked.

 

[BigTy]

just to further muddy the waters, only chains are dot approved for securing mobile equipment on trailers in most states, because straps are designed to have a certain amount of give before they reach full load capacity. Chains, on the other hand, do not give anywhere near as much. Therefore, straps are only "approved" for stationary objects. Some states require 4 seperate chains and load binders (at each corner), while some require only 2 chains, and 2 load binders. Then, the length of your load would determind if you needed more than that. Here in TX, your chains must each be rated for one and a half times the weight of your equipment. In any case, check your local laws. When chaining down your tractor, you want your chains pulling in opposite directions. Ex. chains at each corner, pulling away from the machine. That way, as momentum shifts, you always have a chain holding the equipment securely. If you had both front and rear chains pulling backward, the load would tend to "walk" that direction as you accelerated, thereby loosening your chains as you drive. There, maybe that is enough rambling...

 

[whiteh2o]

I ordered 12,000 lb forged d-rings to weld on the front of the tractor and grade 70 clevis hooks to mount to the open holes in the lower lift arms just like George2615 did. I also ordered extra d-rings to weld to the trailer so it fits my load verses using the existing trailer pockets. I have 4-20 foot sections of grade 70 5/16 truckers chain that I will cut for each one of the 4 ends and binders. Called in on a favor from my brother in-law to use his welder. The working load of the 5/16 chain and clevis hooks is rated at 4700 lbs and I'm only going to be around 3200 lbs. That should be enough to get the job done and be secure. The grade 70 stuff is CA DOT approved and I guess if you can use it there, I should be able to use it in 'the sticks' here in Idaho..ha

No one answered the question about lifting the box scraper into the back of my pickup using 2-8500 lb tow ropes wraped around the bucket. It's probably a stupid question anyway. I'll probably end up re-enforcing the top of the bucket anyway and welding on grab hooks there.