trailering your utility tractors

   / trailering your utility tractors #51  
That looks nice. U-Bolts? You can also purchase weld-on tie downs that pivot up and down.

I always like the bed to be flat so stuff can overhang a bit. Usually in front or in the rear, but occasionally I'll get a pallet that will barely overhang the side.

My trailer has a paucity of tie downs. I use the stake pockets (channel iron) quite a bit. One of my first mods on the trailer was to round all the corners of the stake pockets to be safe for ratchet straps. Ratchet straps can also simply hook over the channel iron.

Everything (including my winch) gets chain hooks, so no hook latches. I usually pull enough chain through the pocket to hook the chain back onto itself. My tractor bucket also has chain hooks welded to it, but unfortunately the shape was wrong and they're a pain to use (probably cut down chain hooks). I need to cut them off someday and put weld on type hooks.
Not "U" bolts.... 5/8 bar stock heated and bent around a section of pipe to create the "U" shape....

I actually use 4 ratchet straps (2,500lb working load - 10,000 burst) left over from race car days and tie down to chassis points....
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #52  
know bureau of land management has banned the use of them on their vehicles for a few years
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #53  
my straps are 1500lb rated and in good shape, if carrying implement (eg tiller) I use 5th strap on attachment. on the 14ft trailer I mounted eye bolts through the metal of trailer. put about 20 iirc in the trailer, front, sides, floor,etc
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #54  
my straps are 1500lb rated and in good shape, if carrying implement (eg tiller) I use 5th strap on attachment. on the 14ft trailer I mounted eye bolts through the metal of trailer. put about 20 iirc in the trailer, front, sides, floor,etc
I've mostly started using 2" ratchet straps rated at 3300 lb working load, and I think 10,000 lb break strength.

I just got some that claimed to be for 5 tons, but they are barely heavier than the 3300 lb straps.

I tried a couple of smaller straps a year ago. Most of them bent themselves up with the first use... disposable straps... :(

I'll do a little more researching good quality straps soon.

I did get a couple of heavier 4" straps, but they seem awkward for most of my loads. I may weld some 4" ratchets onto the trailer sometime.

In the past with boating I used a lot of cam straps. No ratchets. They worked nice for the application, but at least for larger straps the ratchets work well. Perhaps use the cams for 1" USA made straps.
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #55  
REF TRACTOR TIE DOWNS AND HAULING: I moved everything on wheels in my 37 years is the shipping business. Lesson#1: No distance to too long or short to correctly secure your equipment on your trailer. You just don't know what can happen, even in your own neighborhood. Lesson #2: Stay away from cheap straps, Harbor Freight is not selling quality straps in packs of 4. Lesson #3: Chains are fine, binders are not. I have seen more teeth knocked out and jaws broken using them than i can count. A ratchet binder is the way to go or a heavy duty ratchet strap, 3"-4". You only have to put out the bucks for a good set once. Lesson#5: when attatching your chain/strap to your equipment, secure it high enough to ensure it won't fall over in transport. Lesson #6: The BEST way to secure your load from moving in ANY direction is the cross your lashings left to right, right to left, at 45% out from the equipment. Lesson #7: After you have secured your load, do a walk around, test each lashing. Lesson #8: if your traveling a long distance, take a break or when you stop for fuel, check your load, don't assume anything. Follow these basics and you will never have to worry about your load and have peace of mind while traveling.
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #56  
REF TRACTOR TIE DOWNS AND HAULING: I moved everything on wheels in my 37 years is the shipping business. Lesson#1: No distance to too long or short to correctly secure your equipment on your trailer. You just don't know what can happen, even in your own neighborhood. Lesson #2: Stay away from cheap straps, Harbor Freight is not selling quality straps in packs of 4. Lesson #3: Chains are fine, binders are not. I have seen more teeth knocked out and jaws broken using them than i can count. A ratchet binder is the way to go or a heavy duty ratchet strap, 3"-4". You only have to put out the bucks for a good set once. Lesson#5: when attatching your chain/strap to your equipment, secure it high enough to ensure it won't fall over in transport. Lesson #6: The BEST way to secure your load from moving in ANY direction is the cross your lashings left to right, right to left, at 45% out from the equipment. Lesson #7: After you have secured your load, do a walk around, test each lashing. Lesson #8: if your traveling a long distance, take a break or when you stop for fuel, check your load, don't assume anything. Follow these basics and you will never have to worry about your load and have peace of mind while traveling.
Have to disagree with Lesson #6..... No cross straps...

 
   / trailering your utility tractors #57  
Crossed straps/chains are very good for load stability, but poor if one breaks or comes loose.

Belt and suspenders: Use both cross and parallel tie downs. :)

Bruce
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #58  
I have heard that the lever style binders are no longer legal (federally) for commercial carriers. Federal regs do not apply to non commercial carriers although some states may use them as guides.
Do you have a source?
Everything I can find just goes off of the rating (ie: doesn't matter the type of tie down, just has to be properly rated), if it is not rated, it is assumed to be the lowest rating for that size device, so a unmarked 3/8" welded link chain would be assumed to be grade 30).
There are some State agencies who have chosen not to use lever binders, but that's probably due to the costs of workers comp cases from employees getting injured by them.
FMCSA rules do require that whatever you use to secure cargo not be able to loosen or release itself in transit.
Source: Cargo Securement Rules | FMCSA
Screenshot_20230818-211913-605.png


Aaron Z
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #59  
This was a scary thread to read, especially the first half or so.

I'm surprised that so many are apparently oblivious to the forces involved, even if nothing unplanned happens.
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #60  
I could get into a dual axle boat trailer blowing tires (3 days ago) and almost hitting my truck....but I wont.all I will say is fking people suck.
 
Last edited:
 
Top