trailering your utility tractors

   / trailering your utility tractors #61  
all I will say is this. tires (yes 2 blew instantly )and I hit throttle and went from 78 to 110 almost instantly. all cause of a *****ng dumbass that never looked at his trailer tires.
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #62  
Boat (trailer) owners are the worst for wheel bearing and tire maintenance... Usually that is all I see along side of road, is a boat, a lady sitting in boat and a wheel/tire missing off trailer and no tow vehicle in sight...
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #63  
Personally, I use both/either chains and binders and/or straps. 4 for my tractor trying to obtain a 45 degree angle and down pressure. In addition, I used 1 on the bucket/loader and another on the implement. The decision between strap or chain and binder is often based on what it runs across—sharp items that may cut straps means chains or strap protectors.
If using straps, I out a twist in the strap—reduces wind issues in my opinion.
Basically, I try to follow DOT requirements even though as a non commercial hauler it is not required.
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #64  
Have to disagree with Lesson #6..... No cross straps...

Just looking at the image for that video makes one question why a person would use the location points chosen for strapping a load down. That’s just asking for something to slip at the first bump you hit, especially given the fact that the vehicle be hauled has suspension that flexes.

Edit: the video did make some good points but as mentioned in the video, the cross strapping previously mentioned was more so for cargo and not necessarily for vehicle transportation. And I do like the guys pivoting head ratchet straps. They are similar to the ones we used in the military for strapping loads down on Lima pallets that were then kicked out of the back of C-130’s/Osprey’s that we would hopefully recover before the locals found them.

When hauling my cabbed tractor (JD 3046R), I use two straps in the front and two in the back similar to the video posted; as well as one through the tube on the FEL (if attached), two crossed over the rear implement and I also have tire straps to help prevent any rollover.

It’s a lot faster and cheaper to take your time and do it right, than to hastily and haphazardly strap a load down. Doing it right the first time will save you money and the headache in the event something stupid happens like another driver texting, falling asleep at the wheel, tire blowout, deer/bear/moose/cattle…etc.
 
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   / trailering your utility tractors #65  
all I will say is this. tires (yes 2 blew instantly )and I hit throttle and went from 78 to 110 almost instantly. all cause of a *****ng dumbass that never looked at his trailer tires.

Boat (trailer) owners are the worst for wheel bearing and tire maintenance... Usually that is all I see along side of road, is a boat, a lady sitting in boat and a wheel/tire missing off trailer and no tow vehicle in sight...
While I agree with you many boat owners often fail to check their gear, I’ve recently seen more blowouts on newly purchased camper/5th wheel trailers than any other towable item on the road. It seems as of recent, the trailer manufactures wanted to save some money, so they purchased the cheapest retread tires from across the pond.
I only run Michelin or Carlisle’s on my trailers. Horse and contractor trailer are Carlisle, small flatbed or single axle canoe trailer I use Michelin.
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #66  
Don't have time to read the whole post but here is my two cents. Learned this during my Navy service with break bulk shipping loading and managing over the road truck hauling.

The key goal is to tie loads down, so they become integral with the platform. Especially heavy loads, (more critical as weight increases) the slightest movement of the load will start to create slack especially with flexible ties. That movement keeps getting worse and soon the inertia exceeds the strength of the tie down system. Simple high school science.

Mobile equipment loads with we always used high strength cables and turnbuckles to tie down in ship holds. There is nothing worse than moving cargo.

Chains and ratchet binders were mandatory for truck and trailer loads. We found lever type binders were just not capable of reducing slack. Each load type has to be analyzed as to the best system. All tie down systems have to be checked periodically to ensure load integrity with its platform. Takes regular inspections and possible retightening.

Rough roads can also cause slack in tie downs. Nothing is perfect in this endeavor. Get sloppy and your insurance company will not like you. Remember Murphy's law "if it can, it will".

If you travel much, you have probably seen trucks parked with part of their load scattered behind them and a gaping hole in the side of the van type box. Loose cargo moving around.

Blocking and bracing of cargo in sea vans and break-bulk shipping becomes very critical with the goal of cargo becoming solid with the ships deck and hull.

Professional truckers are well trained in these principles. The driver is always responsible for securing the load, never trust others.

Be safe for yourself and those around you, Ron
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #67  
I don’t trust straps. Chains are more Trouble but worth it to me. Use over rated chains with binders can’t be too careful. At least two but four is better.
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #68  
4 point chains & ratchet binders for the tractors. If lever binders get used with chains on an additional item, the lever gets tied in place (only have 4 ratchet binders). Ztrak mower or gator get 4 point 2" ratchet straps.
 
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   / trailering your utility tractors #69  
Here's another question do you use chains and lever binders or heavy ratchet straps to hold down your tractor on the trailer? Also do you use 2 in the front and rear or just 2?
I came up with the system in 1965. I welded a double clevis on the bed of my truck the same height as my drawbar on the tractor. I just drop a pin down through the clevis and n the drawbar and that is all I do to secure my tractor. I do the same today with my zero turn mower on my tandem trailer. it is fast.
 
   / trailering your utility tractors #70  
For my Kioti 5010 I use six two inch straps, each rated at 3333 pounds working load and 10000 pounds breaking strength. Four straps on the frame, one on the front end loader bucket and one on the three point attachment.
 
 
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