Trailering a CK20, tie down methods

[malk315]

Final thread for me tonight.

My buddy Jeff and I are going to purchase a trailer to share (he's got a B7510 kubota machine).

We're looking at a tandem axle 14' trailer that has brakes on all four wheels and can handle the weight and such as recommended by the trailer guy (lots of compact tractor guys use this trailer). The wheels are on the side instead of all underneath which I like because the whole thing isn't so high off the ground like your typical equipment hauler -- it's more like a landscape trailer style, but heavier duty.

Anyway -- I'd like to see suggestions as to how you guys hold down your CK-20 machines. What exact tie downs do you use? We were going to get 2 or 3 straps about 3" wide w/ ratchets on them that can each do 3000 lbs. I'd be curious to see where you tie stuff around. My dealer had gone right over the footrest area and I kinda wanted to avoid that so it wouldn't want to bend the foot rests if a lot of stress was put there. I'm thinking obviously around the bucket and maybe over the rear axle. i.e. one strap around bucket and one each around left and right rear axle on angles ought to be good.

My brother who does this stuff all the time had suggested chains w/ ratchets like he uses for hauling excavators, but I thought the chains could dig into the finish on things and they are way beyond what we need. Any tips would be appreciated.

I've already got a transmission cooler, light setup, and trailer dealer will be installing a brake controller. My hitch is class 3 w/ 2" ball u-haul installed hitch and vehicle is Nissan pathfinder that can handle about 6000 lbs towing.

Jeff will be using an F-250, manual shift so no cooler. Planning to get a reese hitch he'll bolt on to frame and brake controller.

I may use his truck for towing as it's meatier than my pathfinder.

I've towed a bandit model 150 chipper, snowmobile trailers, and 10 foot single axle w/ smaller garden tractor. This will be a step up for me in size and weight, so again any tips appreciated. Also first trailer w/ brakes.

Jeff has towed fishing boats before and this will be something bigger for him too.

I'll probably have my brother check everything out, but wanted suggestions on tie down mostly and anything else we might be forgetting.

Thanks.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

What exact tie downs do you use? We were going to get 2 or 3 straps about 3" wide w/ ratchets on them that can each do 3000 lbs.

I'd strongly suggest you use chain instead of strap. Read the trailering area and you will see horror stories of straps breaking. Your brother was wise for suggesting chain. Look to Grade 70 transport chain for the size and weight, it is much stronger than Grade 43. I'm not sure if Grade 43 is legal in all towing applications, but Grade 70 will be legal for all your towing applications.

I'd be curious to see where you tie stuff around. My dealer had gone right over the footrest area and I kinda wanted to avoid that so it wouldn't want to bend the foot rests if a lot of stress was put there. I'm thinking obviously around the bucket and maybe over the rear axle. i.e. one strap around bucket and one each around left and right rear axle on angles ought to be good.

Sounds like your dealer broke the law and its probably good he didn't get pulled over because he transports under commercial laws, where you would not. D.O.T. regulations typically say 4 tie down points for the tractor, one for the bucket, one for each implement, one for the backhoe. But check your state laws for specifics. So if you just carry a tractor & FEL, you would have 5 tie down points. One chain over the bucket. 4 for the tractor. Please, and I mean please, never use a strap on a bucket. The corners of the bucket can slice through a brand new strap on your first towing trip.

If you use strap on the tractor, wrap the axles and go back to the opposing corners of the trailer. Make sure nothing sharp comes in contact with the straps. But if you use strap on the tractor, use chain on the bucket.

 

[KAB]

Malk,

Bob has made some good points. I use 4 chains with ratchet binders. I bought 2 grade 70 5/16 - 20' chains and cut them in half and added grade 70 hooks back on the cut ends.

I chain the front through frame rails. (Hook opening facing down/outside - chain runs from inside frame diagonally to trailer.) I hook the back chains onto the rops mounting bracket. I am not worried about scratches since safety outweighs looks.

If you are worried about looks and ease of use, invest in the j-hooks that wreckers use. You could easily get some rubber tubing to cover the hooks to prevent scratches. If you use this method open end of hook goes down.

I would also look for a 16' trailer minimum. If you have any attachments that you want to carry with you there will be limited room for tractor position adjustment for best weight distribution. (I wish I had went 18 but the price was right.) Also if you will be using your Nissan, invest in a weight distributing hitch. Proper load placement is critical and a weight distributing hitch will help to move some trailer weight from the back axle to the front axle of the Nissan.

I attached a picture of my CK20 w/RFM on a 16' trailer and as you can see there is not an inch of wasted space. When I have more that one attachment with me, the balance of the load gets a lot harder. I had one load were I was off by about 3" and talk about a fun drive. I was not able to go over 45, I ended up stopping and moving almost everthing to get the load balanced correctly. (I have no pictures of that load, but it was loaded.)

Kurt

 

[RedRocker]

14' is kinda short, I've got 16' and wish I had 22'.
Chain!!!!! NO STRAPS!!! I mounted tow hooks off my frame in front and use a big clevis through the back drawbar assembly.
You can't have too much truck, but a Pathfinder is a little small IMHO. You'll end up with the tail wagging the dog.

I think you can see the hooks in this pic.

 

[malk315]

Thanks!!

You guys have done exactly what I had hoped for. You've made my decision to use nothing but chains an easy one.

RedRocker -- could you post a close-up of your grill-guard bolted on front frame mounted tow hooks, and also the clevis you use through the back draw bar. I think I'd like to duplicate what you've done because it will work great for me (no ailments to tractor finish and a very solid hold down).

Again -- your info is invaluable to someone like me who wants to do this right the first time.

 

[RedRocker]

I don't have any closeup shots, but I used Jeep tow hooks and mounted them with the hook down and curled toward the rear. On the back I have the drawbar with a hole on each side, I just put a big clevis through one of those holes or run the chain through that frame area. My tractor isn't at home, so I can't take any pix.

 

[George2615]

I use 3/8" chain and ratchet binders at each corner of the tractor.
One pic shows two D-rings I welded to the bottom of my loader frame mount which is bolted to the tractor frame. I pass the chain through the ring and the other end through a D-ring on the trailer then tighten with the ratchet binder. Prior to the D-rings I ran the chain over the loader frame mount.
On the back I added a grab hook to each lower 3 pt. arm. Chain goes from that through another trailer D-ring and another ratchet binder.
If you are worried about scratching your paint, go to your local firehouse and ask if they have any firehose they are getting rid of. You can pass your chain through the hose as padding to prevent scratching.

 

[CBB]

Good advice all.

A good friend of mine had the unpleasant job Friday of having to tell a lady and her sister in law that he worked with that her 41 year old husband/brother died that day loading a tractor on a trailer. I guess it somehow came back over on him.

Sounds like good suggestions.

I will say I used chains for front to back, buckets and FEL but used 4 of the straps on the sides to keep it from bouncing on the road and just to add tightness.

 

[Highbeam]

I use four chains and four ratchet binders fastened between the trailer frame and the tractor frame. In front I loop the chain through the square nose of the tractor frame right behind where the brush guard mounts. In the rear I use the trailer hitch. I make great efforts to ensure that each tie off point is independent of the other so that if one chain or binder fails that the other three will hold the tractor.

I use 3/8" chain because that is what the binders needed but 5/16" chain would have been adequate. Chains have load ratings that don't degrade as the ratings on a strap do. The straps degrade with use and exposure to sunlight, water, sharp edges, etc.

 

[malk315]

Highbeam-

Can you describe in more detail how you are attaching 2 independent chains to your trailer hitch? I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to secure that back of my CK-20. If you have a picture of it trailered showing how the rear chains attach to your tractor, I'd appreciate it.

I've been trying to find a large shackle that could go in place of the draw bar, but it would need to be almost 2 1/2" wide to go over instead of inside the pin holes the drawbar goes into. So I'm thinking of attaching to the trailer hitch like you describe (draw bar I assume) or I'm trying to duplicate the method KAB has described somehow attaching to where the ROPS brackets are -- although I can't really see anything I could put a grab hook or slip hook on to.