Trailer question

   / Trailer question #2  
I wouldn't go smaller than 16' - I went 18'
 
   / Trailer question #5  
First question would be whether you're talking about a trailer to haul the tractor, or whether you're talking about a trailer to pull with the tractor.:D

The second question would be whether or not you ever intend to haul the tractor with any implement attached on the rear (or front for that matter) and if so, what implements? How long? How heavy?
 
   / Trailer question #6  
bird has good points here. however , you need to keep in mind of the weight of the BX24. to tow a BX24 you will need at least dual Axel trailer with 7k rating. If you get a single Axel trailer and 10 footer, i think it pretty much too small and underrated. if you need a trailer to carry stuff behind the BX- i would say a 4 ft wide by whatever long you make it is a good size for the BX. make sense ?;) unless you already have a trailer laying around to use.
 
   / Trailer question #7  
I used to own a 10' 3,500# trailer and transported my machine short distances on it. Scary. Don't do that.

I now own a 20' dovetail (18' flat deck) and it is GREAT. The tractor fits perfect and I have extra room in the front for whatever I want.

The DOWNSIDE to a 20' trailer: When loaded with heavy material (5,000# and up) you can only load over the trailer wheels...the front 4 feet are essentially empty. Loading the "front" of the trailer results in way too much weight on the ball since the wheels of a 20' trailer are set back a bit. So to unload, I ultimately need to "push" the last 20% of the material toward the front of the trailer to get it all in the bucket. Not a big deal, just an odd little neuance of a long trailer.

If you have no intentions of carrying anything else with your tractor (blades, ATVs, PHDs, or any other tools), I'd get a 16'. It is long enough for the tractor and has the wheels centered in the bed, so you can load the whole thing.

If you plan on carrying other implements, get the 20'. It's great. Just a little funky to unload, but it isn't that big of a deal...another 5 minutes added to the task.

Dual axle is imperative. 7,000# bare minimum, but I absoultely adore my 10,000# weight rating. If your truck can handle it, I think it is a good buy. For me, it is the difference between taking 2 trips to bring home 13,000# of stone vs. three trips. And the added pain of unloading a third time. And when I buy my pavers, each pallet is 3,000#, so I can get two pallets home at a time instead of just one...my project will take 4 pallets, so I can do it in 2 trips instead of 4. Then there's the sand...

Another thing is that the fold-down ramps are very robust. I've seen 7,000# trailers with the slide out ramps, but when off loading stone at 500# a shot (plus the weight of the tractor), I'd think those flat ramps to be a little Mickey Mouse. There have been posts of them bending under the weight of larger tractors.

Summary (based on my experience):
Dual axle. 7k rating, but 10k very desireable. 16' minimum, but 20' really nice. 6' bare minimum width, 7' is very nice. 8' wide is nicer still, but the wheels are so much wider than the tow vehicle at that point that it may be cumbersome.
 
   / Trailer question #9  
I used to own a 10' 3,500# trailer and transported my machine short distances on it. Scary. Don't do that.

I now own a 20' dovetail (18' flat deck) and it is GREAT. The tractor fits perfect and I have extra room in the front for whatever I want.

The DOWNSIDE to a 20' trailer: When loaded with heavy material (5,000# and up) you can only load over the trailer wheels...the front 4 feet are essentially empty. Loading the "front" of the trailer results in way too much weight on the ball since the wheels of a 20' trailer are set back a bit. So to unload, I ultimately need to "push" the last 20% of the material toward the front of the trailer to get it all in the bucket. Not a big deal, just an odd little neuance of a long trailer.

If you have no intentions of carrying anything else with your tractor (blades, ATVs, PHDs, or any other tools), I'd get a 16'. It is long enough for the tractor and has the wheels centered in the bed, so you can load the whole thing.

If you plan on carrying other implements, get the 20'. It's great. Just a little funky to unload, but it isn't that big of a deal...another 5 minutes added to the task.

Dual axle is imperative. 7,000# bare minimum, but I absoultely adore my 10,000# weight rating. If your truck can handle it, I think it is a good buy. For me, it is the difference between taking 2 trips to bring home 13,000# of stone vs. three trips. And the added pain of unloading a third time. And when I buy my pavers, each pallet is 3,000#, so I can get two pallets home at a time instead of just one...my project will take 4 pallets, so I can do it in 2 trips instead of 4. Then there's the sand...

Another thing is that the fold-down ramps are very robust. I've seen 7,000# trailers with the slide out ramps, but when off loading stone at 500# a shot (plus the weight of the tractor), I'd think those flat ramps to be a little Mickey Mouse. There have been posts of them bending under the weight of larger tractors.

Summary (based on my experience):
Dual axle. 7k rating, but 10k very desireable. 16' minimum, but 20' really nice. 6' bare minimum width, 7' is very nice. 8' wide is nicer still, but the wheels are so much wider than the tow vehicle at that point that it may be cumbersome.
Good post now what to you pull the trailer with?
 
   / Trailer question #10  
I use a 18x6' dual axle (3500lb each axle) to carry my bx2200. With the bucket curled and a 5' cutter on the back, it will barely fit. As noted above this puts considerable weight on the hitch probably maxing out the 500 lb tongue max. The 7000 max rating works good w/ this combo. With a 16', the bucket would need to sit above the front rail.

I'd to w/ a 16 to 18' foot w/ 6' width.
 

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