Trailer paint recommendation

[WinterDeere]

You also need to be very careful using Imron or other similar products. If you are not, you could destroy your lungs and die.

Same problem I was describing above, it's a linear polyurethane with an isocyanate hardener. Isocyanates are nasty stuff, and a forced fresh air respirator is required when spraying them. Do not try to spray a 2-part paint with a regular cartridge respirator, not that folks haven't gotten away with it, but the consequences of a leaky mask can ruin your life.

But that's not necessarily a show-stopper, as there are some affordable (e.g. Allegro 9200-01 is under $1000) forced fresh air systems on the market. I can dig up info on the one I've been using the last 20 years, if anyone is interested. Bonus, your mask will never fog up with a fresh air system, they're actually much nicer to use in an enclosed space, than a regular cartridge respirator and goggles, except that you have to drag an extra hose around with you.

 

[Kubota Kid]

I painted my trailer with Eastwoods Rust reformer, four yrs later no rust, still looks like the day I did it.

 

[BubbaSam]

Well Guys...
I just watched the testing on the Project Farm Video on Rust Converters on YouTube. There were 8 different products tested. The tests were Oxidation, Chipping, Scratching and Water Pressure. The summary is POR-15 ($2.06 per oz) won on ALL cases! However, he suggested that the best product for a lower cost was Rustoleum Rust Reformer ($0.49 per oz).

You can watch the entire video here:

 

[JeepHead]

Brother in law used LINE-X on his Jeep and it's been through some crazy stuff and still looks great!

 

[Gord Baker]

Time to overhaul my 16’ equipment trailer, and while I have the floor torn off of it, I have been thinking about painting it. Does anyone out there have a recommendation for paint for the metal on my trailer? I’m sure some people just shoot Rust oleum on there, but I’m wondering if there is a better/longer-lasting option that I can shoot from a pneumatic sprayer.

Thanks!

If you have an Industrial Paint company nearby, get the frame Sandblasted to Commercial Blast spec., (protect wheel bearings) and have them apply a Zinc Rich Primer followed by a High Build Epoxy. Most important is clean substrate.

 

[350c]

Rustoleum is durable, lasts extremely well, and it is very easy to do touch-ups as needed.

And it's cheap!

I painted the headache rack on my truck 4 years ago with their gloss black spraypaint, and it still looks new.

Agree. I used a steel brush on a grinder, then painted with Rustoleum Rust Reformer, followed by a top coat of flat black Rustoleum.

 

[KennyG]

But that's not necessarily a show-stopper, as there are some affordable (e.g. Allegro 9200-01 is under $1000) forced fresh air systems on the market. I can dig up info on the one I've been using the last 20 years, if anyone is interested. Bonus, your mask will never fog up with a fresh air system, they're actually much nicer to use in an enclosed space, than a regular cartridge respirator and goggles, except that you have to drag an extra hose around with you.

I can't remember what brand my fresh air system is, but I think it only cost about $400. I solve the extra hose hassle by taping the fresh air and compressed air hose together, so they don't tangle. But again, for painting something like a trailer or an implement, just use Rustoleum or some implement paint.

 

[TugHillDog]

furiously taking notes....

 

[WinterDeere]

If you have an Industrial Paint company nearby, get the frame Sandblasted to Commercial Blast spec., (protect wheel bearings) and have them apply a Zinc Rich Primer followed by a High Build Epoxy. Most important is clean substrate.

I've done this twice before, and it definitely gives the best result, but with some caveats:

1. Most of these places miss things underneath the trailer. The guys do their best, but getting down under a trailer is just about impossible in all the gear they're wearing and dragging with them, so they mostly end up working blind when doing the underside. You will ALWAYS end up doing some of that manually with a needle scaler or wire wheel.

2. There really is no way to "protect the bearings", sand will always find a way in. Even with bearing buddies, where sand won't get into the bearing itself, it will get into the plunger area outside, and must be cleaned out. I always figure that disassembly, full cleaning, and re-packing is mandatory after blasting a trailer. Better yet, do it when your trailer needs a new axle, that's how I got away with skipping that chore on my last one.

3. Lights need to be removed, or replaced afterward. You'll want to remove them to paint anyway, but getting it to/from the blaster means you'll be doing some lights work in their parking lot, before and after blasting.

I'm presently needle scaling and re-painting the subframe of my log hauling trailer. It's taking me several days, and honestly, sometimes I wish I had just hauled it to the local blaster I've used for two other (boat) trailers. But between brakes, bearings, and lights, I figured this was the easier course. Also, I can selectively just do the frame and a bit of touch-up on the body (closed side trailer), when needle scaling, versus mandatory full-repaint when blasting.

 

[Dennis Mohn]

Time to overhaul my 16’ equipment trailer, and while I have the floor torn off of it, I have been thinking about painting it. Does anyone out there have a recommendation for paint for the metal on my trailer? I’m sure some people just shoot Rust oleum on there, but I’m wondering if there is a better/longer-lasting option that I can shoot from a pneumatic sprayer.

Thanks!

Look into a product called Por19, car guys use it yo prime auto bodies and they have one for painting frames. It will encapsulate any rust you miss when yo prep and ir is very durable .

 

[old and tired]

Can't believe I'm sinking so low just to get more entries...

View + Reply = 5 entries each thread.

Nothing to see here... move along...

 

[sixdogs]

Time to overhaul my 16’ equipment trailer, and while I have the floor torn off of it, I have been thinking about painting it. Does anyone out there have a recommendation for paint for the metal on my trailer? I’m sure some people just shoot Rust oleum on there, but I’m wondering if there is a better/longer-lasting option that I can shoot from a pneumatic sprayer.

Thanks!

You don't say your location so if you get salt on it, nothing will fully help. I don't and for decades have sprayed black semi-gloss Rustoleum over rusty metal primer. When fully dry I use a garden sprayer and spray of mix of clean synthetic oil and diesel fuel on anything metal.

For the wood, I put down planks and every couple years brush a mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. I re-do every few years. I have one trailer that I did 26 years ago and it looks great, no rust and floor looks excellent.

 

[KennyG]

There's a lot of great information in this thread. However, since Sarge first posted this about 6 months ago, I wonder if he could update us on what he actually did.

 

[WinterDeere]

Can't believe I'm sinking so low just to get more entries...

View + Reply = 5 entries each thread.

Nothing to see here... move along...

I'm not sure that was the intent.

 

[old and tired]

Time to unsubscribe from the lists that are setup for click bait harvesting....

 

[tbear640]

I painted a trailer decades ago with Dupont Imron and looks like new...

A friend was moving and gave me the paint...

While Imron is good it’s toxic to breath and a fresh air system is recommended. Masks with canisters can’t filter the toxins out because they are too small and pass on to the breather. There were people in Michigan back in 1980 when this stuff entered the market that died using this paint.

 

[Gopher Baroque]

I've found common Rustoleum alkyd enamel to be convenient for making small parts nice for reassembly, but it is not very UV resistant.
I'm not set up to use serious automotive paints and have been using Pettit Hobby-poxy one-part polyurethane, sometimes with hardener. It is a step better than alkyd enamel for outdoor durability. As the cost of Pettit paint has gone up, I have been trying Majic paint from Tractor Supply and have been impressed with it. Some colors (NH blue, for example) are only available in spray cans. When it comes out of the can, it covers/flows great. But the nozzles frequently stop - I experiment pressing the button various directions to get it to work. I recently did a plastic pop-up camper roof in Majic white with hardener, using a small roller. Not inappropriate that it mostly flowed out to an even surface with a little "orange ripple" (not really orange peel, but not smooth). It's still new and glossy, and it looks good as a refreshed camper roof.

 

[DGF]

Time to overhaul my 16’ equipment trailer, and while I have the floor torn off of it, I have been thinking about painting it. Does anyone out there have a recommendation for paint for the metal on my trailer? I’m sure some people just shoot Rust oleum on there, but I’m wondering if there is a better/longer-lasting option that I can shoot from a pneumatic sprayer.

Thanks!

Hi,

Based on my experience using it on several things in harsh environments including the bottom of my large mowers, I would suggest trying POR. If you are unfamiliar with it POR is a rust preventative coating that stops, seals and prevents future rust from occuring. When exposed to sunlight top coat the sealer with their paint to give the sealer UV protection and it's a winning combonation. I have not only used it on mowers but also in marine environments where things can start to rust over night and it has performed very well there too.

It can be brushed or sprayed on and I would recommend spraying for a few reasons. It's easier and faster and you get a more even and complete coat with less waste. I have also found that its better to apply 3-4 light coats rather than heavy. Spraying requires it to be thinned so the POR thinner is needed to do that. This stuff is also chemical resistant so the typical thinners don't work well. Also, use the sealer with the gloss finish for best protection.

The UV protective paint comes in a few colors and this is a must. Wear old clothes, and gloves and cover up in general. If you get the sealer on your skin it'll take a few days to get off without the thinner. I learned the hard way. The backs of my gloves were cloth and it leaked through. My hands looked greasy-dirty for maybe 3 days. I did find that using a decent skin oil after washing with sand soap and a knuckle brush helped to hydrate the skin and lift it off. So, just in case there is a back up plan.

Nothing is for free however. POR is a little pricey, not terriable and especially for how well it preforms. The metal also needs to be prepped. A good wire brushing followed by their cleaner sets up the metal for applying their etchent. POR can be applied over light rust so it doesn't have to be totally bare metal just be sure to eliminate anything that is loose and and clean so do the best you can. Some auto parts stores have it on the shelf but it's easy to get from Amazon or direct from the manufacturer. I'd say shop around a little because the price can sometimes vary and it can be better to buy direct at times.

If you don't mind putting in the effort and following the instructions I believe you will be happy with the results. I might sound like an advertisement but I have no conection to the company other than having had a good experience using it on several projects at this point. I have a restoration project coming up this winter and I plan to use it again.

 

[DGF]

I've found common Rustoleum alkyd enamel to be convenient for making small parts nice for reassembly, but it is not very UV resistant.
I'm not set up to use serious automotive paints and have been using Pettit Hobby-poxy one-part polyurethane, sometimes with hardener. It is a step better than alkyd enamel for outdoor durability. As the cost of Pettit paint has gone up, I have been trying Majic paint from Tractor Supply and have been impressed with it. Some colors (NH blue, for example) are only available in spray cans. When it comes out of the can, it covers/flows great. But the nozzles frequently stop - I experiment pressing the button various directions to get it to work. I recently did a plastic pop-up camper roof in Majic white with hardener, using a small roller. Not inappropriate that it mostly flowed out to an even surface with a little "orange ripple" (not really orange peel, but not smooth). It's still new and glossy, and it looks good as a refreshed camper roof.

Some things learned by doing, general tips for the spray nozzles...

Don't vary the spray, 100% on or off nothing in between. Pause spraying after every few passes and wipe the nozzle. If you are going to stop painting for even a short time e.g. a few minutes or more, turn the can upside down and spray for a couple of seconds to clear the tube and nozzle then wipe the nozzle. Lastly keep mixing the paint. Seems like a lot of things but once I started following this proceedure I stopped having clogs and spits and painting from a rattle can got a whole lot nicer.

As far as applying the paint. I also discovered that it goes much better if the first coat is very light then once it sets go back over it with heavier but still light coats. I had to paint some 2x2 ft decorative metal panels a while back and they could not have any streaking or banding from the spray. Using lighter coats made overlapping the passes come out a lot nicer. When finished they looked like they were done in a professional spray shop. So, a couple of ideas. I hope they are helpful.

 

[gsganzer]

I've had great luck using the paint from Tractor Supply, where you add a little bit of hardener to it. Adding the hardener makes a huge difference in how well the paint wears.