Trailer loading plan..

[RadarTech]

A few notes—
1. Tractor has loaded tires.
2. I moved it before with a borrowed 16ft just the box and loader. That trailer was an overbuilt landscape trailer… it had 3500 lb axles, but brakes on 1 axle only. And the tractor had 10-12 inches to spare. It carried it well… but didn’t like the braking with only 1 axle. I used 4 in strapped and not chains. It moved 25 miles each way. Down a mountain with a 6% grade on the interstate (check Saluda Grade, NC) and a crazy curvy road.
3. The new trailer has the same 3500 lb axles, brakes on both.
4. The new property is down the same mountain, but into SC.. nothing crazy on curves like lake lure on 108 and #9!
5. This will likely be a regular occurrence… BUT I might be leaving the bushhog down there… SOME..
6. I’m in the market for good chains and binders… where for a good price for good gear but not a bank breaking price.. I think harbor freight is untrustworthy… but change my mind!



Thanks to everyone for the advice and info!

 

[Bill Carpenter]

It is the weight of what you carry plus the inertia of when you stop. That stop could be an accident. You want everything to stay where you put it.

 

[RadarTech]

I have a Kubota BX 25D and it take every bit of my 16’ trailer. If you can afford it, I’d suggest going 18’ with at least 7k load or 10k axels. Nobody ever said they wished their trailer was smaller! My $.02.

I was looking at that… but decided to not load the truck to max..
The trailer is 16+2 dove.. effectively an 18…
Also I really don’t want to “tempt” myself pulling anything but this tractor.. no Skid-steer, no mini ex..

 

[seville009]

A few notes—
1. Tractor has loaded tires.
2. I moved it before with a borrowed 16ft just the box and loader. That trailer was an overbuilt landscape trailer… it had 3500 lb axles, but brakes on 1 axle only. And the tractor had 10-12 inches to spare. It carried it well… but didn’t like the braking with only 1 axle. I used 4 in strapped and not chains. It moved 25 miles each way. Down a mountain with a 6% grade on the interstate (check Saluda Grade, NC) and a crazy curvy road.
3. The new trailer has the same 3500 lb axles, brakes on both.
4. The new property is down the same mountain, but into SC.. nothing crazy on curves like lake lure on 108 and #9!
5. This will likely be a regular occurrence… BUT I might be leaving the bushhog down there… SOME..
6. I’m in the market for good chains and binders… where for a good price for good gear but not a bank breaking price.. I think harbor freight is untrustworthy… but change my mind!



Thanks to everyone for the advice and info!

Look on Craigslist for chains and binders - usually in the heavy equipment or farm machinery section.

 

[shady brook]

If you're friendly with the trailer salesman and he wants the sale, he should be able to let you take the trailer home or one of similar dimensions. Haul a few different unloaded trailers of different lengths and weight ratings and see how they work for you to get where you need them on your property. Load your setup on the trailer a few different ways and check to make sure you get at least 2 to 3 inches of rear squat on your truck. Measure at the rear and front wheel well arches before you load up. If you have over sprung rear suspension it may not squat a lot, but you will be able to tell if you have to much tongue weight if the front lifts by more than a couple inches. Every tractor setup is slightly different so every time you load a new combination you'll need to test load to check balance. I have a 40hp New Holland and 6' bush hog I haul on an 18' deck 12,000 gvw. I have to back on with the hog attached and the tail wheel ends up spun towards the tractor and sits just behind the hitch plate to get proper tongue weight. So centerline of the body of the cutter is partially forward of the front of the front of the trailer deck. I know you have the box blade to haul too so your setup idea sounds good, but you need to check balance. Make sure you have an as close to level and flat location to park the truck and trailer setup when you are testing balance. Also make sure you have the correct hitch (ball) height so the trailer sits dead level before you load. It's easier to see the trailers weight balance if it's level to begin with plus it will carry the weight better. You are going to be right there weight wise so it needs to be level for even axle weights. You really may want to look at a little heavier gvw. Grass packed on the bush hog and mud on the tractor will add some weight. Your tires and suspension will have a much longer life if they aren't always at their limits. The trailer will haul better to. Sorry for the long story, but I have seen a lot of sketchy setups (maybe even done a few...) and if you're going to be making a lot of trips the extra gvw will be worth it. You only want to buy 1 trailer, I've seen lots of people have to sell the trailer and upgrade after they hauled a couple times. Good luck.

 

[Kschwennsen]

I always use chains and binders as straps can get cut. You may not trust Harbor Freight but they are all made in china so go for the cheapest, they still have to make grade testing. As long as you have the 10-15% tongue load, your fine with load distribution. 1 chain and binder is required in WI but may differ state to state. I would just put a couple of blocks on the brush hog and rest the FEL on them. Check your tires as well, low/damaged tires can put you in the ditch or off the mountain it sounds like. Check your suspensions as well, bad shocks almost took me off the road last night!

 

[Dakota_male]

If it hasn’t been mentioned yet, I worried about loading and balancing my trailer load and found a neat tool called Betterweight. It works excellent to measure tongue weight and can even tell how much you’re hauling. I also use it to with my wdh .
Have a look at .https://www.curtmfg.com/betterweigh

 

[Dakota_male]

When loading tractor or mini X, I open my phone app, drive onto the trailer until I see 850- 1200 lbs on the phone app scale. Set my wdh bars and you can see the load on the front and rear wheels.

 

[scootr]

I downloaded a trailer weight app on my phone. Looks like my trailer is overloaded.

 

[Joe Batt]

It depends on where you are. I towed an old gravity wagon 40 miles at 15 mph with my Subaru and saw about 4 other motorists. No concerns. When I haul my race car from Indiana to Birmingham AL, I use a 1-ton van and a real trailer with real tie downs and secure it for roll over. If your 25 miles includes interstates or highways, I'd find a friend with experience to double check your work. Even posting pictures, we can miss things, like attaching to something that should not be used as an attachment point.

I bet @ptsg never hits 80 mph with that trailer, like some of you will on US interstates.