Trailer Hitch Capacity

[Gem99ultra]

Perhaps I'm being paranoid... but I'd like an opinion on trailer hitch capacities.

I have a '97 Chevy C2500 diesel and need to pull about 5500# of tactor and implements. My trailer is a 20' x 83" PJ tandum axle with brakes on both axles. I don't know how much the trailer weighs. But - the hitch on my truck is a Class III 5000# with a 2 5/16" 5000# capacity ball.

I'm wondering if it's a hazard to pull with that hitch? Or is it really necessary to buy a Class IV or Class V hitch. Just how critical are the hitch ratings?


Your advice please. Thanks.

 

[schmism]

remember that a good ballpark tongue weight should start at about 10% of everything behind the tow vehicle.

so if payload is 5500# and you put it on a 1500# 7K trailer.... then you should start with ~700lbs of tongue weight.

 

[mojoinco]

One time, driving easy, close to home. That's one thing.

Any more than that, I'd buy a new hitch. Note the limits with and without an equalizing ball carrier. You will notice the difference when you compare the old and the new hitch. You might find a good price on a used one.

 

[some zilch]

my 3500 chevy had the same 5k hitch when i bought it. i bought a 14k curt brand hitch from jcwhitney for about $100.......

 

[Diamondpilot]

Get a new hitch. I recommend a Class 4 or better. The hitches on that era of GM trucks were a larger tube that liked to rust out. I have seen a few broke.

As for overloading a hitch do not do it. I have a 2004 F-250 diesel and the hitch was rated for 10,000# I got the truck in August and broke the hitch in October pulling 15,000#. I replaced it with a 15,000# Class 5 Reese Titan and no issues.

As for the ball and mount make sure they are rated right also. You can not usually find what you need at WalMart or the Auto Parts store. You need to go to a trailer dealer, RV dealer, or order on line to get the real stuff. Sometimes you can get lucky at TSC.

Chris

 

[Gem99ultra]

Get a new hitch. I recommend a Class 4 or better. The hitches on that era of GM trucks were a larger tube that liked to rust out. I have seen a few broke.

As for overloading a hitch do not do it. I have a 2004 F-250 diesel and the hitch was rated for 10,000# I got the truck in August and broke the hitch in October pulling 15,000#. I replaced it with a 15,000# Class 5 Reese Titan and no issues.

As for the ball and mount make sure they are rated right also. You can not usually find what you need at WalMart or the Auto Parts store. You need to go to a trailer dealer, RV dealer, or order on line to get the real stuff. Sometimes you can get lucky at TSC.

Chris

Good advice, well taken. I'll do just that.

Thanks!

 

[schmism]

I got the truck in August and broke the hitch in October pulling 15,000#. I replaced it with a 15,000# Class 5 Reese Titan and no issues. Chris

how did it fail?

 

[Dmace]

Just a FYI, those hitches are usually rated higher with a Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch so if you didn't want to go through the hassle of replacing the hitch, you could add a WD hitch and not only get the higher capacity but also towing that trailer would be much easier, more controlled and easier on the tow vehicle. The WD hitch would cost about as much as a new truck receiver too.

 

[Diamondpilot]

how did it fail?

It failed because I was a IDIOT! Plain and simple. I overloaded it. I was told the load was about 12,000#, which was still over weight, and later weighed it and it to find out it was 14,700#. Either way I overloaded the hitch. I was traveling from just west of Pittsburgh, PA to Eastern, IN. Most of the travel was on I-70 going though major cities like Columbus and Dayton, OH

I wish I took a picture. It elongated the pin hole 3/16" of a inch in a 300 mile pull, bent the receiver tube down about 30 deg, and cracked a 3" weld about 2.25". I got luck because if that weld would have let go I would have lost the whole load. Safety chains would have done no good since they are attached to the same area.

Chris

 

[firefighter jim]

Just a FYI, those hitches are usually rated higher with a Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch so if you didn't want to go through the hassle of replacing the hitch, you could add a WD hitch and not only get the higher capacity but also towing that trailer would be much easier, more controlled and easier on the tow vehicle. The WD hitch would cost about as much as a new truck receiver too.

Good advise.

 

[Highbeam]

Perhaps I'm being paranoid... but I'd like an opinion on trailer hitch capacities.

I have a '97 Chevy C2500 diesel and need to pull about 5500# of tactor and implements. My trailer is a 20' x 83" PJ tandum axle with brakes on both axles. I don't know how much the trailer weighs. But - the hitch on my truck is a Class III 5000# with a 2 5/16" 5000# capacity ball.

I'm wondering if it's a hazard to pull with that hitch? Or is it really necessary to buy a Class IV or Class V hitch. Just how critical are the hitch ratings?


Your advice please. Thanks.

You're a hazard if you don't do something different. So first off, the standard class 3 hitch like your GM has is rated for 500# tongue weight/5000# trailer weight AND 1000# tongue weight/10,000# trailer weight WITH a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH). You seem to want to skip the WDH and just pull the thing with a typical ball attached to a stinger and shoved into the receiver. If so, you are going to overload the hitch, the stinger, and the ball.

If you pony up and buy the WDH ( I recommend and use the one rated for 10,000) and use a 10,000# ball then you will be legal and have a pleasant towing experience due to all of the WDH's benefits.

Swapping out hitches to a stouter hitch that allows the 10,000 lb load all on the ball with no WDH doesn't get you there. You still need to get a 10,000# stinger and ball. You will be able to carry the load legally but you may get porpoising and a light front end with all of that weight on the ball.

My PJ trailer is a 10k rated one (see a trend here) and weighs 2500#s empty with 250# of tongue weight. It was built very well.

My old tow truck was a 98 Chevy K1500 with the big OEM hitch. I had no issues at all with rust. Could it be that DiamondPilot's experiences involved hitches used in salt water launching boats? I towed the snot out of that truck and finally sold it after 178000 miles for a one ton ford. The hitch is no stronger on the one ton, same ratings and I use the same WDH.

 

[Diamondpilot]

My old tow truck was a 98 Chevy K1500 with the big OEM hitch. I had no issues at all with rust. Could it be that DiamondPilot's experiences involved hitches used in salt water launching boats? I towed the snot out of that truck and finally sold it after 178000 miles for a one ton ford. The hitch is no stronger on the one ton, same ratings and I use the same WDH.

I think it has more to do with where the truck lives. In Indiana a hitch will last 10 years max due to the road salt. The old GM hitches with open large diameter cross tube rust bad internally if not cleaned regularly. I have seen 3 fail all within the last few years on older trucks. One guy was just pulling a small single axle trailer so it did not break it fully and the thing held together until he could get it stopped. The others did not turn out so good. One had to put down both horses he was hauling due to the failure.

Chris

 

[Gem99ultra]

You're a hazard if you don't do something different..

I agree 100% with you. Not only do I NOT want to be a hazard to others on the road, but not to myself either.

I went ahead and put a Class V hitch (12K) on and will swap out the ball for a 10K or 12K ball before using. That should work okay for my 5500# load on a 10K trailer.

My philosophy?

If a LITTLE BIT is good
MORE is better
and
TOO MUCH is Just Right!

Thanks for the weight on the PJ; I was sorta guessing at around 2500#.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Very good choice on the Class 5. I can never understand while the manufactures put such puny hitches on bigger trucks.

Chris

 

[Highbeam]

You're welcome. I love my PJ but remember that the 2500# weight is for a 10,000lb GVWR model which is built quite a bit stouter than the 7000lb GVWR model. Also I have a 2' dovetail 5200lb dexter axles, and all 4 LR E tires.

The tires are chinese "Nanco" which have been great until recently they all began to crack from the dry rot. They are 6 years old so I suppose they are spent but it irritates me to see all that usable tread depth.

Your stout hitch will greatly improve safety and with the matching ball and stinger, I recommend that they all match at 12k, will make a fine towing setup. You can always add the WDH later if you decide you want your front truck tires planted more firmly on the ground.

 

[Highbeam]

I think it has more to do with where the truck lives. In Indiana a hitch will last 10 years max due to the road salt. The old GM hitches with open large diameter cross tube rust bad internally if not cleaned regularly. I have seen 3 fail all within the last few years on older trucks. One guy was just pulling a small single axle trailer so it did not break it fully and the thing held together until he could get it stopped. The others did not turn out so good. One had to put down both horses he was hauling due to the failure.

Chris

That dang salt! They started using the liquid deicer salt stuff here extensively in the last few years which has had an immediate effect on wheels and exposed steel. Ticks me off.

 

[Diamondpilot]

That dang salt! They started using the liquid deicer salt stuff here extensively in the last few years which has had an immediate effect on wheels and exposed steel. Ticks me off.

Yea, we have had it here for 10 years or so. It kills GM cab corners, old Toyota frames, and Dodge door bottoms. Does not seem to hurt other areas and other trucks as bad.

Chris

 

[Dmace]

Yea, we have had it here for 10 years or so. It kills GM cab corners, old Toyota frames, and Dodge door bottoms. Does not seem to hurt other areas and other trucks as bad.

Chris

It would hurt the Ford's too if they weren't in the garage getting worked on. :laughing: Your so brand loyal, it's actually predictable now. :laughing:

 

[Diamondpilot]

It would hurt the Ford's too if they weren't in the garage getting worked on. :laughing: Your so brand loyal, it's actually predictable now. :laughing:

You have no idea what you are talking about. I have owned vehicles made by Ford, GMC, Dodge, Saturn, Honda, Toyota, Lexus, Nissian, and Mercury all in the last 6 years. That really makes me brand loyal.

Chris