Trailer For tractor

[mitchash]

I am looking to buy a trailer for my Jinma 254 (when I get it), I will have a loader and someday a backhoe, what would I need and how much for a trailer to haul it? The trailer needs to be lite enough for a 1/2 ton pick up (have Chevy Z71 with heavy duty trailer package). Thanks, Ash

 

[Dadsgreenpsd]

I just recently hauled a 254 with the backhoe, PH digger, bush hog, and scraper. I figured that the scraper and the PH digger were each about 350, the mower about 450, the tractor with loader and hoe about 4K. I had a bunch of other stuff in the trailer, and every time i went the speed limit, a tire would vaporize. Moral: get a bigger trailer than you need. Your typical car carrier of 6 - 7 thousand should be sufficient, as long as you dont put a lot of extra stuff on with it.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

The common size for what you want is a 16-18 foot bed with 2 x 3500lb axles. The trailer will weigh about 1500lb so that leaves a capacity of 5500 - 6000lb (some weight will be on the tongue.) Look for an equipment trailer that has feet under the ramps so the tractor does not lift your truck as you drive on. I bought one this spring from a local mfg and he charges about $1.00/lb for most of his trailers. That came to $1470 tax included for me. Most other places around here were about $400 higher.

Brad

 

[SPIKER]

I recently bought me a new trailer to haul mine with, 284 with ZL20 loader and JW03 hoe, it is 18' (16 + 2 dove tail) and has one brake axel and I wish I had dual brakes (both axels) it has 2x12 std decking which was WAS painted gloss black like the trailer. After I got it home it wasn't painted underneath, so I HAD to paint that gallon of black & hardner and a few brushes. I laid down on a ole tarp and poainted away, 5~6 hrs work over 2 days. yucky lol anyhow I haven't had the tractor on it for a road trip, I've hauled a bunch other stuff, (6' brush hog, 2 btm plow and 6' blade all at once) used the tractor (with back hoe on) to remove the items from the trailer and it didn't squat TOO bad but sure looked to be well loaded. I would estimate that the loader tractor and backhoe all 3 would be about as much as the 7k trailer rating could muster behind my truck or any other truck for sure. I should have held out for a 10K trailer I ended up painting the deck on top too and added SAND to the wet paint to give it some no slip grip which worked out VERY well.

anyhow have fun with the new toy and get some good chains and binders. here it requires 4 chain tie locations to properly support anything heavy on a trailer. HF has some onsale 5/16 truckers chains gold colored ones which DOT requires. I got binders there too. I belive you can use 2 chains if they are long enough to TIE each corner independantly from the other half of the chain so that if ONE chain corner came off the other 3 are still bound tightly.

hope that helps.

MarkM

 

[tat2z1969]

I bought out a trailer manufacturing company that was in business for 25 years and we ran it for 12 years before we closed it, so I will give you some info of what I know about the market.
Get a 7000 GVWR trailer (2 3500lb axles)
brakes on both axles, if you don't you will regret it hauling with a 1/2 ton
Make sure it has ST type trailer tires, some cut cost and use car tires or used tires.
Make sure the underside is painted
look close at the welds on the spring hangers, there is some real junk being sold out there.
you want ground braced ramps.
break away set up for the brakes.
A good reliable manufacturer is Hurst trailers in washburn, TN
They have dealers in NY. They make a strong trailer and are reasonable on price. check here http://www.vic.com/hurst/
They prefer you talk to one of there dealers, but if you call Hurst direct ask for Stan, tell him Jim from ETC told you to call for info.

 

[bjmad]

I bought mine when I bought the tractor. Mine is 18 foot dove trailer with ramps built in. It holds 7000 lbs, has dual axles and brakes, painted through and through and has the brackets welded on to put sides on it for other use. I have a Dodge 1500 and it pulls it easily with no problems braking. I paid $2,000 for it, but it's heavy duty, well built and I use it for so many things. One of the best things I've every bought. I use heavy dutiy stabilizers (Jacks) under the rear of the trailer so the truck doesn't get picked up when I drive the tractor on it.

 

[montanaman]

I'm going to go out on a limb and mention Down To Earth trailers. I have looked long and hard at trailers and am in the process of taking on the Down To Earth line. I think that from a value per dollar spent point of view, they are hard to beat!

The 7,000 lb equipment trailer they make has 6" channel main frame and tongue, 3" channel cross members, stand up ramps with the built in stands so you don't pick the truck up, and they won't even build one without brakes on BOTH axles. There are plenty of stake pockets on them for tie down points too.

I would buy the 18" at least if you plan on hauling more than just the tractor and loader and 20" may be even better.

Another thing to look at would be to upgrade to a 10,000LB trailer. For the little more it will cost, you won't need to swest it if you use it to haul lumber or building materials and you may just get a bigger truck next time too.

Where I live, as long as you stay at 10,000lbs or less, there are no problems with registration but 10,001 and over, I need combination plates and a medical card!

Ken

 

[tat2z1969]

I'm going to go out on a limb and mention Down To Earth trailers. I have looked long and hard at trailers and am in the process of taking on the Down To Earth line. I think that from a value per dollar spent point of view, they are hard to beat!

The 7,000 lb equipment trailer they make has 6" channel main frame and tongue, 3" channel cross members, stand up ramps with the built in stands so you don't pick the truck up, and they won't even build one without brakes on BOTH axles. There are plenty of stake pockets on them for tie down points too.

I would buy the 18" at least if you plan on hauling more than just the tractor and loader and 20" may be even better.

Another thing to look at would be to upgrade to a 10,000LB trailer. For the little more it will cost, you won't need to swest it if you use it to haul lumber or building materials and you may just get a bigger truck next time too.

Where I live, as long as you stay at 10,000lbs or less, there are no problems with registration but 10,001 and over, I need combination plates and a medical card!

Ken

Don't know about the brake part their web site says brakes are a option
look:
Equipment Hauler: Down 2 Earth Trailers offers high quality Equipment Haulers at a competitive price in Baxley, Georgia.
and
Car Hauler: Down 2 Earth Trailers offers high quality Tilt Deck Car Haulers at a competitive price in Baxley, Georgia..

I don't see on their site where they are a registered manufacturer with the S.A.E. or NATM. do they manufacture to the spec's approved by the D.O.T?
many don't, the ones who usually are not registered with the above and do not submit their trailers to weight and load testing. Another is do they have a World manufactuers ID number issued by the S.A.E and that number registered with the D.O.T, some manufacture under one name and issue a certificate of origin under another name, just incase their trailer folds and hurts or kills someone, if they do not meet the D.O.T early warning reporting requirements. Just information for people who don't know, there is more to buying a trailer then you see on the surface, after all if the manufacturer does not comply its your butt if something happens.

I live about 1 hour from Butler, don't know about a medical card unless you drive with a CDL and over 26,000 lb. I have combination plates on my super duty registered for 21,000 lb and never had a medical card for that and have been weighed on the portable scales in the Beaver falls area, Did have one to drive my KW though, but never was asked for it when I was weighed with my super duty and gooseneck. Maybe this is new, will have to ask my wife, she is a Notary and does Plates and such.

 

[yelbike]

http://thechive.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/redneck-inventions-13.jpg?w=500&h=658

This works too!!

 

[madmax12]

http://thechive.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/redneck-inventions-13.jpg?w=500&h=658

This works too!!

That's funny :thumbsup:

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I made the mistake of buying the trailer first and going cheap, bought a 16' homemade job with single axel. Then I bought my BX 25. The trailer did not track well and the trailer + the tractor weight was the tail wagging the dog with my 1/2 ton truck. Found a good used manufactured 18' lift bed with tail and dual braked axels trailer; rated at 14,000#. It was still very quesy with the 1/2 ton truck. I did a lot of research and talked to a lot of folks both in and out of the trailer industry. My BX with FEL and BH plus two other implements and accessories weighs in around 6000# + the 2,000# trailer. The largest trailer dealer in our area (when I was pricing new) stated that; if I bought a trailer from him he would not hook it up to my 1/2 Ton truck in his yard but he would deliver (for a fee) to a neutral point and I could do what I want. He blamed liability; as my truck was not rated to carry the 8,000# load. I bit the bullet and bought a 1 ton Dodge 350 dually (used). I now have a dream to drive. I have had 12,000# on the trailer and din't even know it is back there. Moral; No matteer what you get you will probably sometime overload the 1/2 ton truck and find yourself in the ditch or worse piled into somebody else when things go wrong. Always get more than you need to have that safety margin and comfort zone. Side note: I sold that old trailer for $500 and when the guy came to get it he had a small compact car with a class 1 hitch with an adapter to class 2. When he put the load on the car the rear bumper was 6" off the ground and trailer sloping forward. Hope he made it where he was going, but then God seems to protect the fools for some reason, not my luck.

Ron

 

[Circle G Tractors]

For the setup you have we offer a 18' with (2) 3500lb axles, ramps and holders, brake on one axle for $1750. You need to deduct the weight of trailer (2 @ 7,000 lbs, trailer usually weighs around 1400lbs, max carry weight 5600lbs) to see if you are able to carry your load safely. If it were me i would go with 6,000 lb axles, better to have a little heavy axle, you may need it sometime.

Ben
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
Jinma Tractor Parts, Farm Pro Tractor Parts, Farmpro, Nortrack, Agracat

 

[sdkubota]

I used to drag around a 3 axle gooseneck with a tractor backhoe on it weighing 27,000 total with a 3/4 Ton pickup. If you use your head you can compensate for anything.

 

[Bob Rooks]

If you think you are going to stop any trailer with 8,000 lbs on it on a dime then you are a fool. Inertia doesn't care what kind of pickup you have or trailer you pull. People get into trouble by not realizing the ramifications of pulling extra weight and the increased distances need for turning, stopping, etc. I never had an accident, never had a close call, but drove like I needed to and for every other driver on the road. Not sure what laws you think I broke.

My bad. I just noticed you are in South Dakota.
Laws:
You must have a CDL if you operate:

A single vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of 26,001 or more pounds.
A trailer with a GVWR of 10,001 or more pounds if the gross combination weight rating is 26,001 or more
pounds.

And if you did possess the knowledge to acquire a CDL, then you wouldn't have made the statements that you did.

 

[sdkubota]

My bad. I just noticed you are in South Dakota.
Laws:
You must have a CDL if you operate:

A single vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of 26,001 or more pounds.
A trailer with a GVWR of 10,001 or more pounds if the gross combination weight rating is 26,001 or more
pounds.

And if you did possess the knowledge to acquire a CDL, then you wouldn't have made the statements that you did.

They didn't require CDLs at the time.

 

[Bob Rooks]

They didn't require CDLs at the time.

Thank you.
Let's try to keep information provided in these forums as current and accurate as possible.
Sometimes "tribal knowledge" and ego will attempt to prevail over common sense and what is legal.
Try to avoid this for safety's sake.

I digress,