Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks?

   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
No difference with the oil. I've taken the spring out since it's not strong enough to open it. There's not much of a gap between the jaw and the top of the coupler...is there a way to remove this piece? I could clean it better and grind down the top of the jaw so there is some space to move...
 

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   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks? #12  
Clean all the grease & schmutz off of it and paint it red or yellow whn pulled back. Then look for the paint scrapes when you get it in and out of coupling. Then grind the area where the paint tell-tale is.
Of course, the collar may be oblonged because of an over travel. Can you roll it around to check this ? If it's ok when parked and not attached, then suspect a ball or ball compartment problem.
 
   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks? #13  
I found hitch lubrication is regular maintenance... especially if used infrequently and exposed to elements
This. We have one and have to keep it lubricated. I use spray lithium grease (We keep it in The truck toolbox). And a rubber mallet. I hate this style of hitch, but they do create a sturdy connection with the hitch ball!
 
   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks? #14  
My guess is your greater problem is disconnecting, rather than connecting. If that be the case, then be sure there is no tension between the tow vehicle and the trailer. A way to avoid that tension is:
Block the wheels of the trailer. If you have backed into the trailer's parking place, then move the tow vehicle forward every so slightly - like 1/4". If you have pulled forward into trailer's parking place, then back up ever so slightly - again, after blocking the wheels. Either way, you've released tension at the connection point of the ball and the coupler.
You should not have to bang, pry, beat on any hitch
 
   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Just a quick update. I got it moving. Needed a second set of hands to operate the torch and we heated up the end while I moved the jaw back and forth. Took a bit but then it just gave and went easy. It is now all greased up and ready to go.
 
   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks? #16  
Once you get it moving, I would get grease in there. I don't think penetrating oil is much of a lubricant.
 
   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks? #17  
I hate this style coupler. Never owned one that functioned smoothly over time. The one on my dump trailer works OK but the sliding collar has been tough to operate since day one. Slides forward/closed like butter but I need to kick it with my boot heel or tap with a hammer to get it to slide back and release.
 
   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks? #18  
I hate this style coupler. Never owned one that functioned smoothly over time. The one on my dump trailer works OK but the sliding collar has been tough to operate since day one. Slides forward/closed like butter but I need to kick it with my boot heel or tap with a hammer to get it to slide back and release.
That bulldog coupler is one of the best made. It’s secure and doesn’t come open during operation. That’s why heavier duty equipment trailers only use them or a gooseneck.
 
   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks? #19  
I've got hitches like that. I've always used a lug wtench, flat end to open them, then beat it shut so the collar slips over it. If you ever back up to it and hit the end, dead on the point, she'll be hard to open. But we have several trailers here. Id rather have it stiff. My dad has one that the part you close comes out 90 degrees, you dont want that. I had went to an auction and bought a power company truck with a digger Derrick on it. Had to boot leg it home with a 3/4 ton. I waited for the local cops to be in for shift change, saw them come by, and I headed out with that 30 min window of opportunity. I had an 8 ft tow bar I use for big trucks and welded brAckets for tow bar. One stabilizer was down and hung the rail road tracks. But L&NW dont know about that. Got into my state and the hitch came loose because it was broke. It dug in the road and folded under the truck and went in a deep ravine ditch. I dont use a hitch on that tow bar. My neighbor was an electrician and had an old WW2 power wagon they used the winch to pull wire. Towed it also. He had one break too. He is gone now. He was in the war.
 
   / Trailer Coupler issue, any tips or tricks?
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Once you get it moving, I would get grease in there. I don't think penetrating oil is much of a lubricant.
I used the white lithium grease to spray in there.

I hate this style coupler. Never owned one that functioned smoothly over time. The one on my dump trailer works OK but the sliding collar has been tough to operate since day one. Slides forward/closed like butter but I need to kick it with my boot heel or tap with a hammer to get it to slide back and release.
Our sliding collar was sticking too. Made it easier to work the jaw back and forth when I first started messing with it. Then I hit it with WD40 along with the jaw and the collar worked great, hence the need for the screwdriver to hold the collar back...Overall, I prefer this style because it does feel more robust over other styles and its my first time really having an issue.

We normally grease the ball but stopped a few years ago for some reason. I think we will be back to greasing the ball and that should help with this style coupler.
 
 
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