Trailer braking question

   / Trailer braking question #1  

TNhobbyfarmer

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
1,172
Location
Middle Tennessee
Tractor
Kubota L3430 Polaris Ranger 500
I recently bought a trailer to tow my Kubota tractor. It has two 3500 lb axles, brakes on one axle. I have never owned a trailer with brakes so this is new to me. I loaded the tractor for the first time today and drove it around a little to get used to the trailer brakes. I put the controller on full trailer brake mode, drove a little and got out to check things out. The brakes were smoking profusely and there was a distinct burning smell. Obviously I had the brakes turned up too much. I don't think that should have happened no farther than I drove. I am just wondering how do you know about how much brake to use. Is it just a feel thing? I don't want to damage the trailer brakes, but I want to be able to stop safely. A little advice would be appreciated.
 
   / Trailer braking question #2  
I usually set mine just to the point of not locking up.

Wonder if yours were dragging on itself to get that hot.
 
   / Trailer braking question #3  
When I had my 3500 lb axles on my trailer. I would have to set the controller to the highest setting when loaded less unloaded. I was told that if you have 3500 lb axles & only 1 axle brakes that you only have enough axle brakes to stop 3500 lbs. What is your loaded trailer weight ? My brakes were usually shot within a yr.I removed my 3500 lb axles & just installed 2 5200 lb axles with larger brakes on both axles. Maybe your shoes are adjusted to tight
 
   / Trailer braking question #4  
when i pull out , i start with brakes at 0 and then get rolling .. then adjust and touch brake pedal just enough to turn on brake lamps and controller.. then adjust till i feel good drag but not lockup.. and not so it jerks me violently just tipping the pedal..

DO check, as the other poster said.. that they were not locked up or adjusted too tight / dragging
 
   / Trailer braking question #5  
Might not hurt to look at the manual. Not all controllers are adjusted the same way.:D
 
   / Trailer braking question #6  
This issue sounds like the brakes need to be adjusted. In other words the brakes are dragging. Jack up the trailer to determine if the brakes are dragging too much.
 
   / Trailer braking question #7  
What I tell my customers to do is turn it up 1/2 way and roll ahead at 20 mph. Use the manual lever on the controller to try the brakes. If they lock up back it off some. If not turn it up till lock up then back them off about 20%

Once you do it a few times its a feel thing.

Chris
 
   / Trailer braking question #8  
it is definitely a feel thing. I only use tekonsha prodigy controllers, i like the initial boost options and also the ease of use.

I usually get rolling about 20mph peg the controller. back it off of lockup point about .3 Volts. then i set the initial boost so that the trailer brakes come on a tad bit quicker than truck brakes. this lets you use the trailer brakes to control sway without losing vehicle speed.
 
   / Trailer braking question #9  
Ahh have you checked to be sure the connector is wired correctly? Maybe the lights are wired to the brakes and they are dragging all the time.
 
   / Trailer braking question #10  
It does not sound like your controller was turned up too high. It sounds like the brakes are adjusted too tight and are dragging. But presumably you towed it home from where you bought it and didn't have this problem, right? Here is what I would do.

First, with the trailer disconnected from the truck, jack up one side of the trailer and spin the wheels by hand. Properly adjusted brakes, you should just be able to feel and hear them dragging the slightest bit. If they are significantly dragging, then the brakes are adjusted too tight and that is probably your problem. If they don't drag at all, then they are too loose and need to be tightened up a bit.

You should refer to your owner's manual to see how to adjust the brakes. Most of them, there is an oval-shaped rubber plug in the back of the hub that you pry out (I pull it out with a needle nose pliers). Then there is a hole, inside of which there is a star-wheel that you turn. Turn it one way and the brakes get tighter; the other way, they get looser. You can use a screwdriver to turn it, but you will be much happier to get a brake-adjusting tool called a "spoon". It is basically just a piece of metal with a right-angle turn at the end, that allows you to insert into the hole and more easily move the star-wheel. I improvised one myself out of a piece of metal I had laying around the shop. It is MUCH easier to use than a screwdriver. Well worth it, IMO.

Here's a picture of a "professional" brake spoon:

mckaig_hatch_301_brake_spoon_f_cropped_inset2.jpg

Some trailers have auto-adjusting brakes. The way these work is, you attach the trailer to the tow vehicle and then hit the brakes hard while backing up. I've never had one of these, so I can't say much more about it.

Once you have all four of your brakes adjusted correctly, the next step is to hook up your tow vehicle and plug in the electrical connector. With it hooked up, again, jack up a wheel and see if it spins freely. If there is a malfunction in your wiring, simply hooking up the truck may cause the brakes to actuate.

Finally, have someone press the manual activation lever on the controller and confirm that the brakes lock up and you cannot turn a wheel by hand.

With regard to adjusting the controller's strength, this is a "feel" thing. IMO, if you are locking up your wheels, that's too much. What I pay attention to is, when I hit the brakes, does it feel like the trailer is "pushing" or "pulling" on the truck. If I hit the brakes and I feel the trailer tug on the truck, that means the trailer brakes are too strong. If I hit the brakes and I feel the trailer kind of push on the truck, that means they're too weak. When they are properly adjusted, the truck and trailer both stop as a unit, with no tugging or pushing. This all really only matters at surface street speeds. At highway speeds, the controller is pegged all the way up unless it is very lightly loaded.
 
 
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