Tractors and wood! Show your pics

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What year did you build that shed?

I built four 6x16 sheds, starting just before COVID and working through the four years that was that whole sh!tshow. The first one (or two?) cost me almost exactly $1k for block footers + lumber + roofing, whereas I remember paying over $2200/each for the materials required to build the last two, in peak COVID pricing.

Last year.
The most expensive part was the pressure treated bottom end at about $165 and the metal roof.
I Used lumber mill native lumber for the rest. About $130 worth. I mean they get $5 for an 8’ 2x6.
Five 8’ long metal roof panels cost $35 per.
Used old 2” thick paving blocks I had for the footers.
Built it like a skid on three 4x4’s. PT floor joists spaced 24” apart so only needed four PT 6x12’s.
I built two 10’ sections like this.

 

[WinterDeere]

I don’t know how far you’re walking that stem piece Winter but figure it like this: tractor manufacturers build their front end components based on the amount of weight the bucket will hold heaped with material.

This isn't any random universal-fit loader retrofit, that tractor and loader were specifically engineered by the manufacturer to go with one-another. Are you arguing that Deere designed their 3-series loader to exceed the capacity of the 3-series tractor, for which it was specifically designed?

There is leeway built in knowing the owner is not doing this just once.

My last tractor did this every week of its life, and was 33 years old when I finally sold it. Nothing broke. The front end of this tractor is substantially more beefy than any other I have seen at this weight and capacity, which is actually why I chose this specific model.

The problem is sort of like kidney failure. One doesn’t know one’s kidneys are failing until they almost stop working. Same with the weakening of front end gearing.

I'm not worried about it. This tractor was selected and purchased to do exactly what you see it doing there. If it fails, I'll repair or replace it, but I will bet you that it never will. I've never even heard of a front end ring gear failure in a 3R-series tractor.

The ring gear is only about 5”s across or less in the average 2000 lb tractor 4wd front end.

I don't know the size of the ring gear, nor do I suspect it would be the first point of failure, as the same differential assembly is used in 3033R all the way up thru 4066R and 4105. These tractors weigh a wee bit more than 2000 lb., as typically configured. Heck, mine is sitting near 5k lb. as shown there, and it's the smallest of the series sharing that front end. You're talking about 2000 lb. tractors, but I have more than that amount of weight in rear ballast, alone!

 

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Im not arguing anything.
It’s what I’ve seen and what I’ve fixed.
I also feel they built tractors better 33 yrs ago.
Carry on.

 

[WinterDeere]

Im not arguing anything.
It’s what I’ve seen and what I’ve fixed.
Carry on.

On 3033R's or any Deere 3R? I'm obviously curious, not that it probably will change my habits.

 

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On 3033R's or any Deere 3R? I'm obviously curious, not that it probably will change my habits.

I’ve fixed my jd 750 for such a thing. But that loader couldn’t do 900 lbs. What they can’t stand is a condition involving slippage then regrip.
The Mahindras have an average 1550-1650 lb fel capacity in this size. 3500 lb front axle rating.
Everything goes fine until that little piece of ice snuggles under a tire and you have a 1500 stem on the loader.
Let’s face it, we all abuse in instances. But the front of these tractors are not the strongest part although using that part of the tractor may be the handiest.

 

[wolc123]

What year did you build that shed?

I built four 6x16 sheds, starting just before COVID and working through the four years that was that whole sh!tshow. The first one (or two?) cost me almost exactly $1k for block footers + lumber + roofing, whereas I remember paying over $2200/each for the materials required to build the last two, in peak COVID pricing.

I got pretty lucky, with my 8 cord capacity, 6’ x 25’ woodshed. We use an average of 2 cords per winter, to heat our well insulated 2000 sq ft house, way up north by the Canadian border, so that’s (4) years worth. I really don’t need that much storage now, burning mostly ash, but I expect to get back to mostly oak, cherry, and hard maple, within a few years. I’ll be thankful to have (4) years worth stored then.

I built it at the time after Covid, when building materials cost was peaked, but all of my materials were free. My Stockade pole barn shipped in 2018, and every bundle of siding and roofing tin came with an equal gauge, green colored protector sheet of tin, to prevent shipping damage. I had enough of those free green sheets to roof it. Since it’s out back, my wife didn’t mind the mismatched color too much.

My buddy’s crew put the barn up for me, and they dropped lots of self tapping screws with washers. I picked up about 10 times as many of those, as I needed to screw down that woodshed roofing tin.

Prior to putting up the pole barn, I dismantled two old timber framed barns that my great great grandad had built, in the 1880’s, on the site where I put the new pole barn. All of the hand-hewn framing posts and beams, sawed rafters, purlins, and back siding boards, were recovered from those old barns.

I like the woodshed a lot and loading and unloading it is my favorite part of the whole firewood operation. I live in a particularly rainy/snowy area, which makes any type of outside firewood storage very challenging.

We get a prevailing sw wind, and placing the open side of the woodshed on the south end of my barn lets the firewood dry out very good. It has a wide overhang, so I can stay pretty dry, while loading or unloading it in a heavy rain.

It has a high, wide, compacted gravel driveway all around it, so mud is never an issue, and it’s easy to plow snow away from, in the winter.

It is super easy to stack firewood in it, with each row supported by a wall across the back, and a 7 ft 2x6 in the front. I keep a pedestal lamp in it, so that I can easily unload it in the dark, in the winter.

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^^
Nice looking setup!!!

 

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I don't know the size of the ring gear, nor do I suspect it would be the first point of failure, as the same differential assembly is used in 3033R all the way up thru 4066R and 4105. These tractors weigh a wee bit more than 2000 lb., as typically configured. Heck, mine is sitting near 5k lb. as shown there, and it's the smallest of the series sharing that front end. You're talking about 2000 lb. tractors, but I have more than that amount of weight in rear ballast, alone!

This is a stem that should be picked up at the rear in my mind.
Estimated 1700# red oak walked about a hundred feet.
Now when I dragged this up to the landing, of course I picked it up with the fel and placed on the stem pile but that was about a ten ft trip.
The other smaller pieces I have no problem using the fel

 

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I got pretty lucky, with my 8 cord capacity, 6’ x 25’ woodshed. We use an average of 2 cords per winter, to heat our well insulated 2000 sq ft house, way up north by the Canadian border, so that’s (4) years worth. I really don’t need that much storage now, burning mostly ash, but I expect to get back to mostly oak, cherry, and hard maple, within a few years. I’ll be thankful to have (4) years worth stored then.

I built it at the time after Covid, when building materials cost was peaked, but all of my materials were free. My Stockade pole barn shipped in 2018, and every bundle of siding and roofing tin came with an equal gauge, green colored protector sheet of tin, to prevent shipping damage. I had enough of those free green sheets to roof it. Since it’s out back, my wife didn’t mind the mismatched color too much.

My buddy’s crew put the barn up for me, and they dropped lots of self tapping screws with washers. I picked up about 10 times as many of those, as I needed to screw down that woodshed roofing tin.

Prior to putting up the pole barn, I dismantled two old timber framed barns that my great great grandad had built, in the 1880’s, on the site where I put the new pole barn. All of the hand-hewn framing posts and beams, sawed rafters, purlins, and back siding boards, were recovered from those old barns.

I like the woodshed a lot and loading and unloading it is my favorite part of the whole firewood operation. I live in a particularly rainy/snowy area, which makes any type of outside firewood storage very challenging.

We get a prevailing sw wind, and placing the open side of the woodshed on the south end of my barn lets the firewood dry out very good. It has a wide overhang, so I can stay pretty dry, while loading or unloading it in a heavy rain.

It has a high, wide, compacted gravel driveway all around it, so mud is never an issue, and it’s easy to plow snow away from, in the winter.
View attachment 3252393

It is super easy to stack firewood in it, with each row supported by a wall across the back, and a 7 ft 2x6 in the front. I keep a pedestal lamp in it, so that I can easily unload it in the dark, in the winter.

When I see hand hewed stuff like in your pick, it always makes me wonder as to who did that maybe a hundred years ago or more.
I actually make pictures of the scene in my head.
Maybe thats why I was in the third reading group in grammar school.
I liked pictures.

 

[WinterDeere]

I’ve fixed my jd 750 for such a thing. But that loader couldn’t do 900 lbs. What they can’t stand is a condition involving slippage then regrip.

Let’s face it, we all abuse in instances. But the front of these tractors are not the strongest part although using that part of the tractor may be the handiest.

Oh yeah, I definitely get it! In fact, my first tractor with an FEL was also a JD 750! But this tractor/loader combo has sufficient capacity to pick up my JD 750 with the forks.

Weight rating on the front axle of the 3033r is 3200 lb., obviously with some margin in that spec, and lift capacity is around 2200 lb. @ 60" height. Still possible to break things, if you bounce it around on rough terrain esp. given loader COG is forward of front axle a good bit, but I crawl very slowly and stick to level ground, whenever I'm anywhere near max loader capacity. I also hang about 1500 lb off the back of the 3-pt, the outer weights of which extend a good 5-6 feet aft of the rear axle, which really takes a lot of the load off the front axle.