Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[goeduck]

So if I'm following you correctly, you don't use any full chisel, round ground? It's either full chisel square ground or semi chisel?

I use all full chisel round-ground (or in my case round-filed). I've tried full chisel square ground and really liked it, but I like to hand-sharpen in the woods (rather than swap chains when one starts to lose its edge). I've never really gotten good at hand filing square ground chain, and my eyesight is not good enough to really see how that corner is doing, so I stick with the round files.

I use #2 and #5.

 

[cqaigy2]

So if I'm following you correctly, you don't use any full chisel, round ground? It's either full chisel square ground or semi chisel?

I use all full chisel round-ground (or in my case round-filed). I've tried full chisel square ground and really liked it, but I like to hand-sharpen in the woods (rather than swap chains when one starts to lose its edge). I've never really gotten good at hand filing square ground chain, and my eyesight is not good enough to really see how that corner is doing, so I stick with the round files.

My eyesight is a bit poor too, i agree the round cut might be more forgiving but i don't remember square cut, (full chisel) being too bad to sharpen in the field. I'd retouch back at the shop though, for either.

 

[goeduck]

So if I'm following you correctly, you don't use any full chisel, round ground? It's either full chisel square ground or semi chisel?

Sorry, I did not word that very well. I was intending to reference square cutter (full chisel). I have done square grinds in the past when hand filing, but I switched to round grind on both style of cutters (left two in the attached pic).

 

[John_Mc]

My eyesight is a bit poor too, i agree the round cut might be more forgiving but i don't remember square cut, (full chisel) being too bad to sharpen in the field. I'd retouch back at the shop though, for either.

I'm not sure from your statement whether you are missing the distinction between Full Chisel and Square Ground/Filed. You can sharpen a full chisel chain by round filing or square filing (the picture on the right in Geoduck's picture labeled "Square Tooth Square Grind"). I agree that sharpening a full chisel chain with a round file is not difficult (in the middle on Geoduck's picture). That's what I do all the time. Hand sharpening when square filing is a bit more difficult. THat style cuts faster and the edge lasts longer than the full chisel done with a round file. However, if you are off by just a bit in your alignment, you lose the advantage of square filing.

The most forgiving chain for sharpening is the one on the left in Geoduck's picture: sharpening a semi-chisel chain with a round file (I've never seen or heard of one being square ground. I don't think there would be any point in it.)

 

[cqaigy2]

I'm not sure from your statement whether you are missing the distinction between Full Chisel and Square Ground/Filed. You can sharpen a full chisel chain by round filing or square filing (the picture on the right in Geoduck's picture labeled "Square Tooth Square Grind"). I agree that sharpening a full chisel chain with a round file is not difficult (in the middle on Geoduck's picture). That's what I do all the time. Hand sharpening when square filing is a bit more difficult. THat style cuts faster and the edge lasts longer than the full chisel done with a round file. However, if you are off by just a bit in your alignment, you lose the advantage of square filing.

The most forgiving chain for sharpening is the one on the left in Geoduck's picture: sharpening a semi-chisel chain with a round file (I've never seen or heard of one being square ground. I don't think there would be any point in it.)

You see square cut around here, possibly because fir and pine isn't as hard as hardwoods. It cut very fast, but don't touch your tip to the ground. But you can touch it up using a regular file.

 

[wolc123]

I’ve used a few different tractors for wood. This 1951 8n works best for hauling it away from the splitter with a 3-point carryall. It also does ok at skidding logs, with a set of tongues on a 3-point boom pole.

These days, I drag the logs with my 4wd JD 4120 with a set of forks on the loader. I load the logs up on that trailer before chunking them up with my chainsaw. Chunking then up on that trailer, while I’m standing on the ground, greatly reduces lower back strain.

I had to thin my tractor herd a little lately due to the loss of one of my barns, so I no longer own a tricycle front tractor. My old Allis Chalmers C trike was great for skidding logs out of the back 5-acre woodlot on my mucky bottomland farm.

Having the steering tires on the same track as the log, well inside of the drive tires, greatly reduced rutting of the soft ground in the woods. Forward visibility was also a lot better and that thing could literally turn on a dime, using the brakes.

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^
I thought that looked like an 8N. We hauled a lot of firewood in with one of those when I was a teen, my father traded it for his first Kubota the year that I got out of high school.

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

My "big" saw is a 60 cc saw with a 20" bar which meets my day in day out needs very well. I also use a 50 cc saw with 16" bar - quick, light, and nimble. Once in a while I wish I had a bigger saw. Like when I cut pine, which isn't that often. A 572XP would be nice but I just can't justify it. I make due.

View attachment 780782


A couple weeks ago I saw on CL a used 24" bar and skip chain that would fit my 359 and bought it. It was cheap enough for an experiment. I am getting into some bigger fir so I put it on today to give it a try. A normal chain has a tooth every other drive link. A skip chain has a tooth every 3rd drive link. The idea is that with the teeth spaced further apart it allows a smaller saw to stay in the power curve when a long bar is is buried in wood.

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The first tree didn't have much hinge and went a little left and hung up.

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So I winched it off the stump - doesn't look promising. Bigger isn't necessarily better when it come to our fir.


View attachment 780791


By the time I got to good wood there wasn't much left. Glad I don't get many this bad.


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The best one.


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I was worried the saw would be nose heavy but it was actually well balanced and comfortable to handle. It cut fine but that stuff did not make much of a cutting test.

gg

In the first picture there is a partly cut tree, a powers and a glove but nobody around. My first though was is the hand still inside the glove. lol. In all seriousness these are all great photos. thanks for sharing.

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

View attachment 781125
I’ve used a few different tractors for wood. This 1951 8n works best for hauling it away from the splitter with a 3-point carryall. It also does ok at skidding logs, with a set of tongues on a 3-point boom pole.

These days, I drag the logs with my 4wd JD 4120 with a set of forks on the loader. I load the logs up on that trailer before chunking them up with my chainsaw. Chunking then up on that trailer, while I’m standing on the ground, greatly reduces lower back strain.

I had to thin my tractor herd a little lately due to the loss of one of my barns, so I no longer own a tricycle front tractor. My old Allis Chalmers C trike was great for skidding logs out of the back 5-acre woodlot on my mucky bottomland farm.

Having the steering tires on the same track as the log, well inside of the drive tires, greatly reduced rutting of the soft ground in the woods. Forward visibility was also a lot better and that thing could literally turn on a dime, using the brakes.

Looks like you are pretty efficient. One thing that was a game changer for me was my logging winch.

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

One of the big game changers for me was my logging winch.