Tractor stability going uphill vs. down

[rfc143]

I know there are a huge number of variables involved with answering the question, but is it generally true that a tractor like mine (Kubota L5240), with only a FEL and nothing on the 3Pt Hitch, with loaded tires and wheel weights, (both of which tend to move the C of G rearward, would be more stable going down a hill than up a hill?

I've got a steep skidder trail on my property that I've come down with a 800 lb grapple claw on the front; 600 lb winch on the back. I believe once or twice I've been able to back up the same trail (but if it's too wet, can not). How would I know if it's safe to try driving up it?

 

[CalG]

Stability

vs traction, two different concepts.

But, a tractor's stability is located AT THE REAR AXLE! The front end is on a pivot. The nearer one can get the center of mass to the rear axle, the more "stability" you will have. That is, only tire deflection can shift the lateral CG at the rear axle beyond the lay of the land.

Running that grapple out front must pull a lot of weight off the rear wheels. If you get in a situation where the rear end leaves the ground, a tractor offers NO lateral stability. Zero, nadda, zilch!

 

[boggen]

many tractors if you swap the rear wheels side for side so as to keep direction of treads on tires. you can either gain a couple inches or loose a couple inches of width on the rear end.

no brakes on front tires. only brakes on rear tires.

check your operators manual to find out what it suggests for counter balancing weight between front and rear of tractor.

always try to keep the FEL low to the ground to keep COG (center of gravity) low to the ground while moving.

i have backed up a hill in reverse a few times on rather ugly nasty slope of a hill/s with the TLB (tractor loader backhoe). so i could keep weight on the front tires. (backhoe weight and at that angle *ughs*)

if you have 4x4 / MFWD engage it, and shift to a lower range / lowest range gear option. and just take it slow. if need be the engine can help perform some braking possibly. by dropping the engine RPM's.

tire pressure lower pressure within tires can allow the tires to defalt / bulge per say on the ground allowing for more ground contact and in that more traction.

chains on tires can also allow for more traction.

if it is to wet it is to wet. no if's and's or but's. if you are putting ruts on level ground, the hill most likely just going to be the same. spring/fall around here are wet seasons and you just wait, and wait. till things dry up.

make sure your ROPS (roll over protection system) is in good working order (without finding out the hard way). were a hard hat. and make sure safety seat belt is properly adjusted. do not think you will push over a tractor or hold it up with your body, if it rolls, keep your hands, feet, head in side the ROPS/tractor.

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with above said.

How would I know if it's safe to try driving up it?

no one is gong to be able to answer that specific question. it is a judgment call at least for me if i was driver. if you do not fill you can do it, do not do it. if you do, do it, nice and slow. so if something happens you might be able to correct issue and keep on going. or slowly come to a stop and slowly get it back down the hill without rolling it.

 

[sweettractors]

I know there are a huge number of variables involved with answering the question, but is it generally true that a tractor like mine (Kubota L5240), with only a FEL and nothing on the 3Pt Hitch, with loaded tires and wheel weights, (both of which tend to move the C of G rearward, would be more stable going down a hill than up a hill?

I've got a steep skidder trail on my property that I've come down with a 800 lb grapple claw on the front; 600 lb winch on the back. I believe once or twice I've been able to back up the same trail (but if it's too wet, can not). How would I know if it's safe to try driving up it?

For me, it depends on what is at the bottom of the hill. If I am going down hill and go into a slide, I want to be able to skid/slide into a safe area at the bottom of the hill. I have a hill on the farm that I can navigate safley going down, and would not ever attempt it going up. Ken Sweet

 

[Egon]

When the going gets steep:

Back up. Drive down. Same tractor orientation. Keep bucket low.

Otherwise you you may test out the ROP's!

 

[Gary Fowler]

When the going gets steep:

Back up. Drive down. Same tractor orientation. Keep bucket low.

Otherwise you you may test out the ROP's!

I agree. If you don't have the traction to back up a hill, stay away from it. With FEL or other type of attachment on the front, while driving down hill(or backing uphill) with front of tractor facing downhill, if you loose traction and go into a slide, just drop the FEL to the ground to stop your slide or at least slow it way down. This reduction of weight to the rear wheels will also allow them to regain some traction.

 

[jeff9366]

If you don't have the traction to back up a hill, stay away from it.

Good test. I will remember this operating tip.

 

[Grandad4]

When the going gets steep:

Back up. Drive down. Same tractor orientation. Keep bucket low.

Otherwise you you may test out the ROP's!

Yes, ...

But also make sure you have more weight in back than in front. On a slope, the weight of the tractor shifts to the downhill end of the tractor. If most of the weight is already on the front, when you back up, even more weight goes to the front axle. If it's too much, the rears will get light and not only lose traction, but the tractor could be laterally unstable due to the front axle pivot. Having more weight on the uphill end of the tractor keeps the back end planted to maintain both traction and side-to-side balance.

 

[Egon]

Yes, ...

But also make sure you have more weight in back than in front. On a slope, the weight of the tractor shifts to the downhill end of the tractor. If most of the weight is already on the front, when you back up, even more weight goes to the front axle. If it's too much, the rears will get light and not only lose traction, but the tractor could be laterally unstable due to the front axle pivot. Having more weight on the uphill end of the tractor keeps the back end planted to maintain both traction and side-to-side balance.

That's when you drop the bucket and use the curl traction assist option.

 

[Thomas]

Yup test by backing up than go w/your gut feelings.
Have you consider good traction tire chains?