Tractor Shop Building Options / Pointers?

[otus_branch]

Thus far, my farm has operated with two steel 40' shipping containers as the sole tool / equipment shelters. This has meant that the hand tools, 4-wheeler, and BCS's & attachments have spent their lives 'indoors' but the Kubota has had to bear the brunt of the elements for more than a decade. Abundant grease and Fluid Film usage has kept the corrosion at bay, but the paint and tires are showing signs of UV damage. Plus, servicing the 'bota on gravel or mud has been a PITA to put it mildly.

For these reasons, I am looking at a steel building on a concrete pad. With the other needs for shelter/shop space and the available building site, I am thinking that 30-40'W x 60'L x 12'-14'H makes sense for my purposes. The site would permit an even wider structure than 40', but my understanding is that increasing the span drives up cost considerably compared to increasing length. Sixty feet of length is about as long as I can fit. A fourteen foot height to rafters would be nice, but 12' is probably adequate for my purposes and any equipment I'll ever own. I hear that adding height gets expensive quickly as well.

In researching options in Western NC, I see Champion Buildings at:
Steel & Metal Building Company | Southeast USA | Champion Buildings

These folks seem to be a 1-stop shop outfit, with in-house construction teams.

&
Viking Steel Structures at:
Viking Steel Structures- Metal Carports, Barns, Garages, RV Covers

These folks seem more like the traditional Middle Men who neither manufacture the buildings, nor install them, but just take their cut along the way...

& lots of other professional middlemen, such as:
Metal Buildings, Garages, Carports & Barns Online- Elephant Structures
&Metal Barns | Steel Building Garages

etc.

I'd like to hear from the TBN community, especially folks relatively nearby who have put up similar buildings. Any companies to avoid like the plague? Any particularly good products or outfits? My county will permit this as an Ag structure, so no permits to pull before electric.

While I don't plan to put in plumbing, does it make sense to run a few pipes for potential future drains before pouring the slab?

Any other pointers are welcome. My searching found a few good posts in the Rural Living section, but I figured a more specific tractor use steel building post fits OK here.

-otus

 

[jrsavoie]

There have been guys that used the shipping containers for their sidewalls.

Works out pretty good

 

[Bigfoot62]

Can't say about any of the contractors you mentioned. Built both of my barns and the shop myself.

Since you live in NC, I assume you need to figure in snow load. Down here, that's not an issue. We just hope to build something that will stand up to the occasional hurricane force winds.

One thing I will say, is however big you think you need, build it bigger!

 

[Phillip w]

There have been guys that used the shipping containers for their sidewalls.

Works out pretty good

I am from Kansas, but plan on moving to Shelby, nc soon. That being said, we have Morton building in Kansas. They are considered the "Cadillac of buildings" but they are a little pricey. There are other contractors in Oklahoma that build buildings that are just as good as Morton buildings with about half the cost.
If it were me, I would go with a pole barn design and 14 ft tall. With this height you have the option of backing in really tall stuff (ie. A load of hay, a semi, etc or the option loft it). I believe I would plumb it for a frost free water hydrant and drains. I would wire it for 240v in case you want a welder or large air compressor. If you go with a pole barn design, all the plumbing and concrete can be finished after the barn is built. This way you get a better idea of how thing look before you pour the concrete. The poles in the pole barn are generally laminated 2x6 lumber. They claim that is stronger that a 6x6. All you have to do is nail 2x6 lumber to the base of the poles on the pole barn, and that make concrete form. Pour your concrete. there will be about a six inch gap between the concrete floor and the barn tin. Fill that gap with gravel. Helps to control seepage and drain a major spill/flooding event inside your building. Be sure to put in plenty of doors and windows or will be hot hot hot in the summer time. Hope this helps.

 

[Wagtail]

Personally, I went with the 'one stop shop'. The only thing that I had to do (although they would have) was prepare the site, which, with the help of my tractor/tiller/FEL-bucket I was able to do using nothing but my eye.

A competent 'one stop shop' does a lot more than simply erect the shed... (here in Tassie and, therefore other places) they'll submit all of the paperwork that the local council/government require for erecting. There's more involved than you might think as buildings are rated for your area's slope/exposure/maximum wind/snow-load/roof drainage etc...

The footings for my open 5-bay shed were properly set into the concrete pad = the shed as erected straight and true. I put in a 5,000 litre water tank for rain water collection + ran an extension cord from my house out to the shed to power the tank's pump and any power tools that I use. Nothing heavy that would require a 230v/3phase.

My shed is oriented facing South, to minimise sun entering, you, in the Northern hemisphere would/may want to face North, depending on your circumstances as predominant wind direction and average intensity would be factors to consider.

Natural light can be employed via 'clear' roofing panels or skylights.

 

[otus_branch]

There have been guys that used the shipping containers for their sidewalls.

Works out pretty good

I have thought about using the shipping containers for side walls of a lean-to off of the main structure. Will float this possibility once I settle on a company for the main structure / concrete pad. Thanks.

 

[otus_branch]

Personally, I went with the 'one stop shop'. The only thing that I had to do (although they would have) was prepare the site, which, with the help of my tractor/tiller/FEL-bucket I was able to do using nothing but my eye.

A competent 'one stop shop' does a lot more than simply erect the shed...

My shed is oriented facing South, to minimise sun entering, you, in the Northern hemisphere would/may want to face North, depending on your circumstances as predominant wind direction and average intensity would be factors to consider.

I may tackle the site leveling myself. We'll see how that shakes-out, but there is not too much earth needing to be moved. But after that, a 'one stop shop' option is high on my list.

Good point on the solar orientation. My garage bays will be oriented west, which could get warm at times, but with a hill in that direction blocking the late afternoon sun, it shouldn't be too bad. But that orientation makes the best sense from an access and flow standpoint. Thanks!

 

[otus_branch]

I am from Kansas, but plan on moving to Shelby, nc soon...


All you have to do is nail 2x6 lumber to the base of the poles on the pole barn, and that make concrete form. Pour your concrete. there will be about a six inch gap between the concrete floor and the barn tin. Fill that gap with gravel. Helps to control seepage and drain a major spill/flooding event inside your building. Be sure to put in plenty of doors and windows or will be hot hot hot in the summer time. Hope this helps.

Welcome, future Tarheel! Lots of growth around Shelby with the highway expansion from what I hear.

That advice on the system for pouring a pad in a pole barn makes good sense. Thanks!

 

[otus_branch]

Can't say about any of the contractors you mentioned. Built both of my barns and the shop myself.

Since you live in NC, I assume you need to figure in snow load. Down here, that's not an issue. We just hope to build something that will stand up to the occasional hurricane force winds.

One thing I will say, is however big you think you need, build it bigger!

I wish I had the skills, time, and patience to do this building myself, but I don't right now, and I need the building sooner rather than later.

Snow load will be a factor here. We can get up to a few feet at a time. One of the contractors I looked at had a minimum of 20 psf snow load, but I suspect I will need to bump that spec upward for my region.

Regarding size, I have already moved from thinking that 30'x40'x12' might suffice to thinking that 40'x60'x14' is a more reasonable minimum...

Thanks for the worthwhile advice!

 

[Wagtail]

Snow load will be a factor here. We can get up to a few feet at a time. One of the contractors I looked at had a minimum of 20 psf snow load, but I suspect I will need to bump that spec upward for my region.

This is one of the things that a competent One-Stop-Shop can provide... I should have elaborated more in my earlier post.

The company that built my shed submitted all of the paperwork & plans to my local council which led to a seamless building approval, and it was built to the specifications required for the rated environment (max wind exposure for the elevation/slope). The pad building crew was hired by the company and the cement was ordered by them, both local and to spec. The fabricated shed was delivered and assembled (after the pad had cured) within 3 days by a 3 man crew.

The site was fully cleaned up after the erection.

All done for the agreed price.