Tractor shed - flooring suggestions?

davesisk · Jul 7, 2005

Hey folks:

OK, I'm looking at soon building a shed to contain the tractor, lawn mowers, leaf blowers, weed-eater, gas cans, etc. The biggest item is the MF 1220, which is just under 12' long w/ FEL and no implements attached. So, I'm planning to build a 12' x 12' storage shed as that's the largest I can build without having to secure a permit, tolerate inspections, etc.

My question is about the flooring. I'm not sure wood flooring on blocks (the way it's typically done here for small-to-mid-size storage sheds) will be sufficient to support the 2200 lbs of the tractor plus maybe 1000 lbs or so of other stuff. I'd consider having a concrete slab poured, but that puts me back to needing a permit AND it would be quite expensive to get the concrete back to this area.

I've thought about just using gravel for the floor, but I'd like it to be a little off the ground level, even if it's just a couple inches. I've got 8 - 60 lb bags of concrete in the garage from a fence project a couple years ago. I'm wondering how well it would work if I dig the area out, build a wood form, backfill with crushed run (ie. gravel) about 6" deep, tamp it all with a power tamper, then dump dry concrete mix on top and hose it down. I realize the concrete won't cure as well as mixed concrete and won't be as strong, and the finish won't look like a poured concrete pad. But, I've done pavers and slate this way with mortar mix, and it seems to hold up quite well. However, it just needs to look nice on the outside. The floor can be a little ugly as long as it's 2" about ground or so. I'm thinking it would end up looking like gravel that someone spilled cement on...because that's essentially what it'd be... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

What do you folks think? I still haven't calculated how much concrete mix I'd actually need to get 2" thick or so (with the extra aggregate somewhat mixed in), but it might not be too much more than I already have. 12'x12'x2" is 24 cubic feet, or less than one cubic yard.

Thoughts on the best way to go?

Dave

chim · Jul 7, 2005

I kept my B7500 in one of what we call those "Amish Barns" for a while (till there was too much other junk there). It has a 3//4" plywood floor, and it worked fine. The reason it did was the floor is built on treated 4x4's that are pretty much spaced for the wheel tracks of the tractor. They take all the real weight. Picture laying out the 4x4's to drive on, then building a shed around them.......................chim

Egon · Jul 7, 2005

What does the shed sit on?

Have you considered concrete sidewalk blocks? They will be easy to lay on a gravel base.

I built a 10 by 8 metal kiln shed a few years ago. The frame work and trusses were made of ordinary doubled up metal studs covered with metal siding. The shed frame also had metal cross studs on the floor. The entire shed sat on a level raised gravel pad. Then gravel was placed inside to level with with base frame. Sidewalk blocks were placed on top of this. This is what holds the shed down and does make an acceptable inexpensive floor without much labor involved.

Several planks could be added for the tractor wheels to sit on and help distribute weight..

Egon

bobodu · Jul 7, 2005

I'd go with timber beams set on concrete piers and a wood floor .Still may need to buy more concrete...you be surprised how little they fit into a bag...

Bob_Skurka · Jul 7, 2005

Dave, have you considered something like POLYPAVEMENT?

I've not used it, I'd like to try it but have had several other projects occupying my time so I have not gotten to it. But it looks very promising and like something that would work for you. I'm considering it for paths through the woods to keep down the dust, and also for the floor of a new equipment run in shed that I want to build.

 PolyPavement Soil Binder website 

There are other brands, some are suitable for clay soil, some for sandy soil, some for rocky soil. You need to search google for soil binders and find one suitable for your soil conditions. PolyPavement appears to be what would be good for my conditions which is why I have their website saved.

EddieWalker · Jul 7, 2005

Theres an old saying, what they don't know wont hurt them. As to pouring a concrete pad and having to get permits, do it anyway, and don't say anything.

Buy a portable cement mixer from Home Depot or wherever, buy the sand gravel mix and bags of portland cement, and mix it your self.

12 X 12 isn't too much to do in half a day. I've done a few just that size by myself. Just make sure to keep your scree board moving! Get it all set up with everything you need, then start mixing and pouring early in the morning. You'll be done by lunch and have what you really want.

If not, PT post laid down on the ground with plywood flooring is the next best solution for a nice finished floor.

Eddie

PS, they also don't like power or water in sheds, so you can just run a heavy duty extension cord to it for lights and a hose for water. Lights are a must, water is just nice to have.

have_blue · Jul 7, 2005

( What does the shed sit on?

Have you considered concrete sidewalk blocks? They will be easy to lay on a gravel base. Egon )

Excellent idea. They're a buck apiece, and a steal at $144 for a 12x12 shed floor.

I have tried sand and gravel for a base for these blocks, and it
was no contest. The blocks rocked back and forth on gravel, but don't even move on 4" sand base. Small, sharp limestone gravel would proably do as well as sand, but then you wouldn't even need the blocks.

GerardC · Jul 7, 2005

Maybe the attachment will help. It should give you some ideas of how the skid/floor is built.

Joe1 · Jul 7, 2005

2 inches of poured concrete will probably crack. You might consider using gravel base with sand and concrete papers. The're a little more expensive that the 12 x 12 patio stones but a lot less likely to crack. You can sweep concrete in between and wet it for a solid floor or leave them loose. If ore or two settle, pull them up, pack more sand beneath and reset.

Farwell · Jul 7, 2005

I use a lot of crushed concrete for outdoor storage of my equipment and it has worked very well for me. It works much better than gravel and it settles to form a pretty stable foundation to drive on. I have used it for the tapered ramp to drive my John Deere 2010 in to my pole barn and it has worked very well. Eventually I am going to build another pole barn for equipment only and I am going to use about 4 inches of crushed concrete for the floor. It works very well for oil leaks too. It is not comfortable to lie or sit on so I use cardboard or plywood when I have to sit or lie on it.
When I was a kid our corn crib floor was wood planks on sand running side to side with double planks runing length wise that the tractors would drive on. It lasted for years.

davesisk · Jul 7, 2005

( Dave, have you considered something like POLYPAVEMENT?
)

This looks pretty interesting, particularly since I've got a sand pile currently where I intend to put the shed. I've sent them a note to see if it's available locally or if I can order it from them.

Dave

Coyote · Jul 7, 2005

I have a similar tractor in my barn. I just used 2X6's for joists 16" OC with 5/8" sub flooring and it works fine.

valleydweller1 · Sep 18, 2005

I don't mean to tell a man his business, but why 12x12? I'm assuming that's because the max size is 144 sq ft, so why not do 10x14 or 8x18 or something? For instance, 120 is the max size in my county, so I could do 10x12, but 8x15 would be much more useful.

Just a thought...

Greg

BigDogues · Sep 19, 2005

Another option might be compacted stone dust or "hard pack". Actually "hard pack" is a blend of stone dust with some larger stone chip in it. We have granite hard pack up here and it looks nice installed. You can have a truckload delivered, move it into place, (another good use for your FEL /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif), wet it and compact it using a plate compactor you can rent from Home Depot. If you broadcast some portland cement over it while doing this the stuff will set up hard. It's a great technique for driveways too. Permanent but temporary all at the same time.

scott_vt · Sep 19, 2005

Bob,
That polypavement does look very interesting. I would be interested in talking to someone who has tried it!And Price?
scotty

jjcc246 · Sep 19, 2005

my opinion 4-6" stone and 4" concrete. Everything i did in life i had to do twice because i tried to save money the first time. Bite the bullet do it right once and forget about it. That's my new motto, and if i don't have the cash i'll wait until i do.

LBrown59 · Sep 24, 2005

1*I'm looking at soon building a shed to contain the tractor, lawn mowers, leaf blowers, weed-eater, gas cans ,
 2*My question is about the flooring. I'm not sure wood flooring on blocks will be sufficient to support the 2200 lbs of the tractor plus maybe 1000 lbs or so of other stuff.
3*I'd consider having a concrete slab poured, but that puts me back to needing a permit AND it would be quite expensive to get the concrete back to this area.
davesisk
================ 
 ================
1*Gas cans should not be stored inside a building if they go up in smoke so does the building and everything else in it. Keep them outside or in a small shed or metal building that is well away from the house garage barn and all other buildings. This way if they do go up in flames all you loose is the gas cans and what they were in. I plan on keeping my lawn mowers, leaf blowers, weed-eaters and the like in another small separate shed / building also.
2*My brother has a 2 car garage with a wooden floor. If it will support cars and trucks I'm sure it would support a tractor too.
3*Mixing and pouring the concrete yourself solves the problem of getting it there.
Once the building is done pour the floor and no one will know there is a cement floor in it.

dillo99 · Sep 26, 2005

Dave,

I just put down crushed stone in my pole barn and it works very well. It packs down hard in no time. It is pretty easy to pour concrete later if you want - plus by then any settling will be done.

Mike