Tractor Pole Barn, part 3- the sawmill

[treeboone]

Its been awhile since the last post on this project, other things had to be done also, but winter is coming, so the push is on. The site is eyeball leveled using the bucket and backblade on the L4610. Wet down and wheel rolled a few times for compaction. I hand dug holes for the concrete to hold the pinned pier blocks, then mixed and set the same. The size worked out to 24 by 32 feet. No particular reason for that size, just seemed practical. I cut a few trees off the site (backhoed the stumps) and gathered a few more for poles, as you may recall on the last post my wife was peeling them. After some research on the net, and Dan McCartys suggestion, I bought a Logosol chainsaw mill and a Husky 394 from the local saw shop. This is a good setup for milling posts. I was carefull to keep the logs clean by carrying them with the fork attachments on the loader bucket. I am finding the fork attachments to be one of the most usefull implements I own.
The first photo shows the sawmill, I have just made the last cut on a 5 inch square post, the bark flitch is ready to come off. The cut is fairly smooth and ready to use. Accuracy is within 1/8 th inch in 12 feet.

 

[treeboone]

This picture shows the site, and a couple of the milled center posts are set. The crude crossmembers only serve to hold them in place temporarily. The original plan was to build with round posts, but now I am going to build something closer to timber framed. I have not done this before, so I will wing it as I go. More pictures as the project goes.

 

[Jag]

TB, nice go, looking good... Please keep us updated, doing the same thing just a few steps behind.

 

[edgeman56]

Are you using an alaskan style wood mill to make those beams? I bought my Dad an Alaskan Mill and a Husky 3120 xp chain saw to go with it, we have only used it a few times, and it works great. Maybe I will follow your leed and use it to build a pole barn.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hello Treeboone,

I was curious on a couple things...

How long did you let the lumber dry before putting it use? {to prevent the twisting and warping etc.}

Assuming Idaho winter is like NY frost line about 40-48"...how come you dug the pole footings by hand? Why not a post hole digger?

Whew... that seems to be a lot of extra work...

 

[cowboydoc]

I have to say that I admire your ambition. That's quite a project to mill all the lumbar yourself and HAND DIG those footings! Looks like you've done a superb job.

 

[treeboone]

John, good questions. First, how dry is the lumber? It has been a dry summer, so it ain't dripping (grin). The main supports are Lodgepole pine. They will split, but are not prone to the warp like Douglas fir.
I dug footings about 12 to 18 inches or until I hit native rocks. I once had a post hole digger, but there were so few places where it could be used (Rocks) that I traded it off for a back blade. We do get frost heave, but not bad enough to hurt a building like this. I suppose if it were conventional construction it would be a bigger concern. My house, and 2 small shops are built with round poles, so far so good. I suppose calling this a "barn" is taking liberty with the meaning. Maybe "well ventilated equipment cover" would be a more accurate description of the product

 

[PTRich]

Treeboone:
I would very much like to hear what you think about the mill. I thought of purchasing the logosul or possibly the woodbug. I have a lot of large white pine I want to clear. Did you sharpen your chain yet? Was it a lot different or difficult? Does the frame hold up well when you put a log on it? Are wood chips on the rails a problem? I am a big fan of Husky, I have had both Stihl and Husky and feel more confortable with my Huskys. (I have a 262 and a 272). Is it hard to make your second (90 degree) cut?
http://www.woodbug.com

Good luck PTRich

 

[treeboone]

The logs I've milled haven't been very big, 6 to 10 inches diameter, just right for beams. It will handle just about anything you can load on it. I bought the 394 and had the dealer set it up with a milling bar and 4 rip chains (it takes about 1/3 inch kerf per cut) They are easy to sharpen, at least if you have experience hand sharpening chainsaws. The angle is different from bucking chain, no big deal. The sawdust has no effect on the rail. The 90 cut is not at all difficult, the hardest part is getting the log on the machine (fork attachments on your loader are worth gold at this point.)
The chainsaw mill is great for making beams, it is not as sensitive to dirt as a bandsaw mill. A bandsaw mill is great for cutting boards. I suppose the way to go would be to use the chainsaw mill to make the first four cuts, then take the cant to the bandsaw mill. Dont get me wrong, this will definately cut boards, but the kerf loss will add up. Surprisingly, this can cut smoother than a bandsaw mill.

 

[HR_Mutt]

treeboone
how about an update on this project?/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
regards
Mutt