Tractor for land clearing and preparation

[jeff9366]

Rent a mulcher to clear the land then get a sub soiler to grind up roots and rocks in place and push leftover mulch below the soil.

I would like to know more about this subsoiler.

Is there a vender you can reference or a video on YouTube?

 

[Fastowl]

Over the past 10 years or so I have cleared over 300 acres of mesquite ranging from thin new ones to 24-30 inch diameter. Currently working on another 150 acres. I use a S650 Bobcat with a shear to cut and built in spray tanks to kill the stump (i try to get close to the ground on the cut but any dirt on the stump blocks the herbicide/diesel mix and is a source for regrowth). I go back with a grapple and pick up the debris and stack into burn piles. I could not do this with a tractor (although I have a 75 HP JD). The Bobcat is much more maneuverable.

I takes me about 1-2 hours/acre to cut and spray depending on tree density. Another 1 1/2-2 hours/acre or so to stack it. Not a quick process. And I am not trying to clear the land for plowing or anything else, just opening up more area for grass, etc. for cattle/goat pasture.

I get about 85-90% kill on the mesquite from the cutting and spraying. We go back about two years later to foliar spray any regrowth, need to get enough regrowth to be able to carry enough herbicide down to the roots.

Mesquite is one tough wood. I have replaced numerous hydraulic hoses and repaired steel guards on my Bobcat root grapple that get bent out of shape. Finally replaced my Lexan windshield this past winter as it was so scratched up and crazed I was having a tough time seeing out of it. About $700-800 for the new windscreen plus a new gasket. The windscreen is 5/8" Lexan, not the real think forestry screen that Bobcat also sells (about $1500 for a new one of those, just the plastic part).

 

[Fastowl]

I suppose everybody is thinking about this situation considering their environment but in my case I can't get a loan at the moment to clear the land and get a tractor at the same time, so it's one or another. If I clear the land with a dozer then I will have to wait for a tractor so I wouldn't be able to start to prepare the land for crops
Loans are a lot more expensive here as well so I'm trying to be as effective as possible.
Also the options here are very limited, there are only 3 options: clear with tractor, by hand or with a dozer.

Have you talked to your local NRCS agent? They have programs through their EQIP program and others that will heavily subsidize your clearing costs. Also there are greater subsidies if you are a 'beginning' farmer/rancher. Beginning is defined as 'within the last 10 years' or at least used to say that. The subsidies apply if you contract it out or DYI it.

 

[paulsharvey]

I would like to know more about this subsoiler.

Is there a vender you can reference or a video on YouTube?

Here is one that is probably suitably sized for a 75hp tractor. Didn't dig into the specs; some subsoilers can go 6 ft deep; and that's not going to work with a 60-80ho machine. It is ment to break hard pan to allow better drainage. There is also a 3 point bar, that holds BB ripper teeth; but that's not for subsoil breaking; its actually ment for base ball to basketball sized rocks, and guess what; roots. Don't know the ones I've seen online will handle clearing....

 

[jeff9366]

I am familiar with that style subsoiler. I had a similar style single shank subsoiler from everytfhingattachments.com.

I want to know more about the subsoiler MIKESTER recommends:

"then get a sub soiler to grind up roots and rocks in place and push the leftover mulch below the soil."

I learn about new-to-me implements every week on T-B-N.

 

[newbury]

Has anyone mentioned napalm?

 

[paulsharvey]

I am familiar with that style subsoiler. I had a similar style single shank subsoiler from everytfhingattachments.com.

I want to know more about the subsoiler MIKESTER recommends:

"then get a sub soiler to grind up roots and rocks in place and push the leftover mulch below the soil."

There are hydralic rock teeth on track hoe buckets (similar to a skid steer milling head) for laying pipe in solid rock. I really don't think that's a solution for this stuff.

 

[paulsharvey]

So, we haven't touched on topography at all here, and that matters a lot on your attack plan. OP mentioned leveling; that's not really a 'tractor' situation, and people have farmed less then level areas all around the world. Smooth is more important then level. If you have wet, swampy bowls, that's where I would push your trash material (unless that's illegal where you are).

You May want to try to find an Ag consultant or if there is a Goverment/provincal/tribal authority/commun/ag college program in your part of the world that can help you make a plan. They should be able to comment on wind breaks, canals, tree lines, ect that would benefit your end farm greatly. They will also be able to give you advice on soil make ups; soil testing/treatments. In the US, I think every county has a Ag extension agent or office; and trust me; they go to great lengths to help a new farmer, with advice, help find programs, ect. Even things like what type of peanut seed to plant, fertilizer recommendations, even marketing. They often will provide historic price index for both production and expenses, from what a whole cow sells for, to the price to subcontract spray herbicides, to hand pick labor for water melons.

How's the drainage? Do you need to cut ditches to drain and/or irrigate? That's a hard job to do with a tractor. If you need to lay drainage tile, that's also a specialist job.

 

[jeff9366]

Has anyone mentioned napalm?

Post #24 is the cost effective solution:

paulsharvey​

Platinum Member​

POST #24 IN THIS THREAD.​

Another possible option: Plow 12 ft wide fire breaks around 20 acre blocks. Spray with Roundup/glcophosphate, wait 2 to 4 weeks for verdure to die and dry, then burn; disc when cold.

That's gonna cut down on your working hours/fuel bill.

 

[paulsharvey]

Honestly, I think ALL of us are putting the cart before the horse. Step #1; well step 1b (step 1a is getting 100% of same page with wife/family); is to get a good resolution 24x36" map/aerial/Google earth map, and Planning out what you want. Then, step 1c is meeting with some knowledgeable local experts, discussing options and putting a plan together. I dont Only mean a plan of action, also a physical blue print (not necessarily engineered, but you might be able to overlay a flood plan map, or soil map on your aerial, try to have things at a relatively accurate scale). Where the fields will go; shape, size, direction, where the drainage areas are; where the infrastructure (access, power, equipment sheds, silos, fueling, home, fencing) goes. Winging this part could (probably will) cause you problems for generations later. If you need ponds to control water during wet times, this should be incorporated into your watering plan. You don't want the ditch plan, or barns to fall right where your perfect home site is. You don't want to have to drive though your best field to get to another field.

Once this step is done; then we get to "mobilization" or actually getting stuff together to start the work.