Tractor decision

[paulsharvey]

With the pasture, if your running live stock, you will still need to mow on occasion, to knock down the species the stock don't eat, But, you probably can get by running a larger bushhog/batwing, then if straight up solid mowing/hogging.

Full sized round bales is 1200 lbs dry; but get heavier if stored outside, so, probably want atleast 1800 lbs+ loader capacity, if running cattle; which the Mt347HC would do fine.

 

[JurassicJet]

@New property
RE: Treadle peddle vs dual peddles. I have had both; honestly, it is whatever you get used to. The one thing I didn't like is if you do extended reverse operations, such as a 3-point mounted snow blower, it got to be rather tiresome to hold your heel down continuously.

If I were you, I would get a tractor with a cab. The new factory cabs are awesome. As far as the AC taking power away, that is hogwash. Sure, it takes some power, but you will not notice it at all.

I just searched Western PA and found numerous Kioti dealers. You might want to have a look at their CK or DK line. The factory cabs on those are phenomenal. Kioti is made in South Korea as is LS and Bobcat (Kioti makes Bobcat). I would scratch JD unless you have money to burn. I looked at them before I purchased my Kioti, and the JD proprietary attachment system killed any further look for me (along with the exorbitant price). I came from Kubotas which are decent tractors but getting spendy like JD.

 

[aesanders]

The Massey Economy E series has the treadle, the Premium M series has split pedal. The M series are built in Japan and are very well made, up there with the best made. The E series are no slouches either, but you don’t get the bells and whistles. The 1700 series that Paul Harvey mentioned have been replaced with the 1800 series ( both E and M). 1800 M series has a power shuttle available that is sweet.

Nice machines and worth considering. Check youtube videos by Vahrenberg Implements for good videos on Masseys.

LS tractors are decent. Get considerable bang for buck. They are decently made, and you can get a cab model for the cost of an open station Kubota or Deere. I do think the size you are looking at is about right.

 

[paulsharvey]

So, a quick search (not your specific location) MT347HC $38,580; DK4720SE $43,600; MF 1840M cab $45k (shuttle, didn't see in-stock hst or power shuttle 1850M); LS MT357HC $41,890.

Keep in mind, grapple, 3rd function, and impkiments very well might add another $10k.

Will you be trailering at all?

For the $3k, I would probably want the extra 10 hp. That Mt347 is a 47hp machine, but PTO hp is only like 38.

I also found a MF 2860M cab, HST, loader, New, $54,500, with 1 set of rear remotes. Pretty significant step up in price, but thats a machine you probably won't out grow.

 

[Piston]

Most any size will run any implement you want, within reason. The difference is the size of the implement it will run.

A big thing for you to think about is how much weight will you want to lift with the front end loader? Figure that number out first. Then figure out what size implements you want to run, from there you can figure the PTO hp required.

After that, it really narrows down the size tractor to get. Frame size typically determines loader lift and 3 point lift capacity, and hp determines PTO capacity.

If you are putting the driveway in yourself, and doing any amount of rough dirt work for your new house (clearing/leveling land etc), you may want to consider a backhoe until the house is built.
You can get a screaming deal on full sized backhoe loaders, which don't even compare in any way to the delicacy of a tractor.

 

[paulsharvey]

The whole other side of this is; if you just want a tractor to do minor driveway maintenance, pick up cut dead trees, and some minor mowing, and chores; and you don't mind taking your time; there is no reason something as small as a CK3520SE wouldn't work. It all depends. I know people throw HP/Acre out there, but a lot of people don't really need that. Point in case, Mom had 58 acres, about 4 mowed, rest scrub woods. She never had anything on that property bigger than a riding mower and a garden cart. She really could have used a G, BX, 1025, type tractor, but a lawn tractor did what she needed.

It really is about what you see yourself doing, and if you are the type that looks at that 35 acres of woods, and on a random day, says, hmmm, be nice to clear and plant 2.5 acre food plot over there, and then I'll get 80 tons of rock for the driveway.

TBN is always going to be willing to Spend Your money. If magically, I was gifted your property; I would run my CK2610HST open station, until I found I just absolutely had to have more; But since you aren't starting with a machine, I think starting small, and then replacing is a bad move.

 

[Hay Dude]

My .02:

Too many people buy tractors based on engine HP and discount the value of weight. Also look at frame thickness, axle sizes, etc. If you do a lot of loader work, front bearings, seals is something you will probably be fixing after a few thousand hours. Look at how the tractor is built and don’t fixate too much on engine HP.

Let’s say we are looking at 25-30HP tractors. I can tell you straight up that a substantially heavier tractor will out-pull a substantially lighter tractor.
Look at the price versus weight. It’s unlikely you will run out of power before weight. In other words, look at the chores typically done with tractors and the problems people have with them. Typically, they have problems with traction and stability more than HP. Look at all the topics posted here. I see more topics about stability on hills and worries about getting stuck. Weight helps solve those issues. Weight is traction. Weight is stability with a loader. It’s like “free” power & safety.

Your power decisions should focus on PTO HP. What PTO implements are you running?

I buy #1 by the dealership, #2 by weight & specs and a close #3 by PTO HP as a general specification.

 

[sea2summit]

If you want to routinely mow all 15 acres of pasture; your probably mowing 2.5 acres/hour with a 6 ft bushhog (about the right size for the 347); or 3.0 acres/hour with a 7 ft (about right for the 357); or 5.1 acres per hour using a 12 ft mower (probably want maybe 60-75hp).

I think these are pretty optimistic numbers…and going from 6’ to 12’ will not more than double your speed that’s a fault in the calculator estimating overlap. Calculators also don’t calculate maneuvering/redirecting, they really just think you’re mowing a straight line at full speed all the time.

 

[paulsharvey]

I think these are pretty optimistic numbers…and going from 6’ to 12’ will not more than double your speed that’s a fault in the calculator estimating overlap.

True, I just plugged 3.5 mph x width x 5280 in; but the point was, a 6 ft mower, is an entire working day, maybe 2 in real life, with breaks, fuel, breakfest/lunch, picking up limbs; vs an afternoon with a 12 footer. The truth is you'll Never be 100% efficient; even 80% would be a very optimistic efficiency.

We don't know if he is going mow the pasture or what; but if he is the kinda guy (or his wife is the kinda lady) who wants that pretty mowed horse farm look, where you mow all 15 acres ever 3 weeks, then the mower is a significant factor in the decision

 

[Hay Dude]

I lose more time mowing around objects or certain types of grass than overlap, but there’s little you can do about a customers grass type or the number of trees & rocks.