Murph - it was simple and kinda fun. I especially liked that there is no permanent change to the machine. Thanks for the nice feedback - good luck if you or anyone else is going to take a crack at it. I am sure mine will look the prototype that it is.
Tractor Cab built from PVC
- Thread starter cdcole
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djradz
Veteran Member
Very nicely done. I've seen others here used copper, but I like the pvc for several reasons. It looks reasonably strudy too, but I'm wondering if you could more firmly anchor it to the top of the ROPS, if it wouldn't be rock-solid. In-fact I was wondering if instead of tie-wrapping to the ROPs, did you consider attaching at least the plywood with something a litte more substantial? How about one of these ideas.
- Extend the plywood a bit closer to the ROPs and tie wrap it up tight though several holes place in the plywook immediately adjacent to the ROPS.
- Extend the plywood on top of the ROPS and drill and tap a couple of small (such as 1/4"-20) holes through the plywood and into the top of the ROPS.
- Drill and tap ROPS on top and extent some sort of metal plate or tabs onto the top of the ROPS
- Build some sort of metal clamp that would go around ROPS (similar to how the ROPS attaches to the axle) and bolt it to the plywood, again extended slightly closer to the ROPS.
Anyway, you did a really nice job. One thing I was wondering though was how did you attached the plastic to the pipes, is it one the inside of the pipes (appears to be) and did you try to use one continuous piece as much as possible other than at the door?
- Extend the plywood a bit closer to the ROPs and tie wrap it up tight though several holes place in the plywook immediately adjacent to the ROPS.
- Extend the plywood on top of the ROPS and drill and tap a couple of small (such as 1/4"-20) holes through the plywood and into the top of the ROPS.
- Drill and tap ROPS on top and extent some sort of metal plate or tabs onto the top of the ROPS
- Build some sort of metal clamp that would go around ROPS (similar to how the ROPS attaches to the axle) and bolt it to the plywood, again extended slightly closer to the ROPS.
Anyway, you did a really nice job. One thing I was wondering though was how did you attached the plastic to the pipes, is it one the inside of the pipes (appears to be) and did you try to use one continuous piece as much as possible other than at the door?
Danno1
Veteran Member
T-nuts.
Also, I painted the PVC direct vent piping fr my furnace w regular latex house paint. You can't scratch it w your fingernail. I was surprised, as I usually swear by proper surface prep and proper paint.
.
Dan and DJ,
T-nut. That's it. Those will work great. Concerning the suggestions about rigidity - it seems to be very stable with the tie straps. The most vulnerable side is the side opposite of the door. Technically I should put one more piece of 1 1/2" going horizontal about half way down such that the clear sheeting will not act like a sail (although I have had no problems yet even with moderate winds).
The rigid 3/16" clear plastic is on the inside while the clear sheating is on the outside. Not sure why I went on the inside with the rigid plastic...I think it had to do with the fact that screws would be inside leaving a cleaner look. In any case I tried holding it up both ways and went for the inside. For the clear sheet - it seemed better from the outside as winds would compress it against the PVC vs. pushing it away...make sense??
Opinion - the PVC seems stronger than copper in this case...unless you went with really big stuff. I suppose one could fill up the PVC with something if you wanted to be more rigid - foam stuff or something. I filled a 4" pipe with concrete one time using a funnel. It made the basketball support pole solid...literally like a rock.
By the way - I would never drill the ROPS...even with a small bit. Alteration of a safety device would not be recommended due to potential legal technicalities in case of an accident.
T-nut. That's it. Those will work great. Concerning the suggestions about rigidity - it seems to be very stable with the tie straps. The most vulnerable side is the side opposite of the door. Technically I should put one more piece of 1 1/2" going horizontal about half way down such that the clear sheeting will not act like a sail (although I have had no problems yet even with moderate winds).
The rigid 3/16" clear plastic is on the inside while the clear sheating is on the outside. Not sure why I went on the inside with the rigid plastic...I think it had to do with the fact that screws would be inside leaving a cleaner look. In any case I tried holding it up both ways and went for the inside. For the clear sheet - it seemed better from the outside as winds would compress it against the PVC vs. pushing it away...make sense??
Opinion - the PVC seems stronger than copper in this case...unless you went with really big stuff. I suppose one could fill up the PVC with something if you wanted to be more rigid - foam stuff or something. I filled a 4" pipe with concrete one time using a funnel. It made the basketball support pole solid...literally like a rock.
By the way - I would never drill the ROPS...even with a small bit. Alteration of a safety device would not be recommended due to potential legal technicalities in case of an accident.
aczlan
Good Morning
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- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
So, is there any benefit to having the rigid plastic on the inside (vs not having the rigid plastic there)? I am thinking of making a cab for our B7510 similar to yours but with a Golf Cart roof as the top of the cab (I have one available). It would mainly be something to keep the wind off. If I can direct some of the air that comes past the radiator and engine into the cab to warm it up some that would be a bonus.
Aaron Z
The rigid plastic is just easier to look through than the clear plastic sheeting...because it is stable and flat where the plastic sheeting may change shape from one area to the next. Either way - the sheeting will work if all you are trying to do is keep the wind off. Frankly, this project is so easy that if you have the money and time you might as well build it up in a similar manner.
Concerning the heat - my muffler is on the side of the tractor so I would not want to bring that heat into the cab unless I wanted to go to sleep permanently.
Best bet for me for heat would be a small heat exchanger with a fan and thermostat from an old car. They are about $50-$100 on ebay.
Concerning the heat - my muffler is on the side of the tractor so I would not want to bring that heat into the cab unless I wanted to go to sleep permanently.
Best bet for me for heat would be a small heat exchanger with a fan and thermostat from an old car. They are about $50-$100 on ebay.aczlan
Good Morning
- Joined
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- Messages
- 17,540
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
So, what order do you have the plastic layers in?
Is it something like this:
Or does the flexible plastic not go over the windshield?
On this tractor the exhaust is on the front, so if need be, I could bring in air from next to the engine, but CO2 would be an issue... have to think about that one. Perhaps I will skip heat for now and do it if needed later on.Concerning the heat - my muffler is on the side of the tractor so I would not want to bring that heat into the cab unless I wanted to go to sleep permanently.
Thanks
Aaron Z
wildwillie
Silver Member
I like it ! Simple,cheap,fast,removable,easy to alter,Best in all worlds
I'm sure some of the purest s wont like it but all it has to is work.
I'm in the process of putting a golf cart top on my L3400. I may steal some of your ideas.
I'm sure some of the purest s wont like it but all it has to is work.
I'm in the process of putting a golf cart top on my L3400. I may steal some of your ideas.
ctgoldwing
Platinum Member
CD I know you said you just heat the pvc with your salamander to bend it but everyone should know that burning pvc gives off extremely toxic gases. I don't know how hot you can heat it to before it starts outgassing bad stuff.
CTGoldwing,
Good point.
PVC emits toxic fumes even when warmed. It is especially dangerous when heated to a state where it synges or worse yet...burns. Trick is to have real good ventilation and don't breath it in.
Good point.
PVC emits toxic fumes even when warmed. It is especially dangerous when heated to a state where it synges or worse yet...burns. Trick is to have real good ventilation and don't breath it in.
nhkabotab7800
Bronze Member
hey would wraping the fexable stuff around the pvc and then fastening it with screws thru the plexiglass work i guess the plexi would need to be inside that way.
i guess the plexi would need to be inside that way.hey would wraping the fexable stuff around the pvc and then fastening it with screws thru the plexiglass work
I have thought of wrapping the plastic around a small piece of something flat...then screwing that to the pvc.
mx5guy
Silver Member
Well CDCOLE I like it for same reason as you, keeps snow out of your face, cost a lot less that anything you can buy. Plus who needs it in the summer, just lift it off, and store for summer.
No lack of imagination in your family.
No lack of imagination in your family.
aczlan
Good Morning
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2008
- Messages
- 17,540
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
Then I would have to do something to get it out of the way in the summer... It will be something to weigh in my mind when planning
Got it. Thanks for clarifying that.
Aaron Z
Well CDCOLE I like it for same reason as you, keeps snow out of your face, cost a lot less that anything you can buy. Plus who needs it in the summer, just lift it off, and store for summer.
No lack of imagination in your family.
Check this out - now my friend down the street built one for his Kubota!!!
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SkunkWerX
Platinum Member
hey CD, Nice low cost innovation.
After battling our east coast blizzards this winter I can understand, anything to cut the wind chill and snow in the face.
For ultra-low-cost, (and basic survival) I resorted to a piece clear plastic, cut arm holes and a head hole. it covered the seat and controls like a big poncho. I still had a face full of wind and snow (not fun), but it kept the snow from piling up on my back and thighs and melting, basically soaking me through. It also kept the wind off of my legs and body, that was a help too.
i can't imagine how much nicer it must be to be fully enclosed! :thumbsup:
Your design has me thinking.....maybe the next step is to use EMT tubing and a tubing bender? .... it's got me thinking.
After battling our east coast blizzards this winter I can understand, anything to cut the wind chill and snow in the face.
For ultra-low-cost, (and basic survival) I resorted to a piece clear plastic, cut arm holes and a head hole. it covered the seat and controls like a big poncho. I still had a face full of wind and snow (not fun), but it kept the snow from piling up on my back and thighs and melting, basically soaking me through. It also kept the wind off of my legs and body, that was a help too.
i can't imagine how much nicer it must be to be fully enclosed! :thumbsup:
Your design has me thinking.....maybe the next step is to use EMT tubing and a tubing bender? .... it's got me thinking.
Well - 3 of my friends have now built one or are planning to. The Kubota one is nice and big inside - not cramped at all and is capable in terms of allowing all controls to easily be accessed. He is putting a beacon on too.
PoleClimber
Bronze Member
Nice Cab---Looks like my first cab design.
