Gord Baker
Platinum Member
Try 'jumping' it with the + lead directly on the Starter. NEVER boost these small engines with a vehicle and engine running. You could burn out the Stator and your engine will no longer charge your battery.
Tractor battery issue
- Thread starter Redbarchetta
- Start date
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5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 26,992
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
What engine Eddie? Both Kohlers and Kawasaki's are noted for their Bendix hanging up and not cranking, especially Kohlers. Had that issue with my wife's ZT and removed the starter and lubed the Bendix and as is well now.
wedwards
New member
I had a similar problem where the tractor (New Holland TC29) would randomly not start. Ended up being one of the relays.
Gord Baker
Platinum Member
Check your wires for Warm after turning off Engine. You have a huge current draw somewhere if the Battery is indeed a good one. NEVER boost a small engine from a vehicle with the engine running. You could burn out your Stator. Try a new ignition switch and remove any amateur wiring that may have been done.
dcarman
Bronze Member
Sounds like a bad battery cable or grounding connection. A volt meter would tell you what voltage is in the battery. if it is around 12 volt the cables are definitely the issue. Grounding connections are the greatest culprit in situations like this but i've seen a few bad battery cables also. They look like new but have a disconnect somewhere inside.
Gord Baker
Platinum Member
You can have 12VDC but not enough Amps on a failing battery.
qualsite
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2010
- Messages
- 50
The first step, always, is to check the voltage at the battery terminals while trying to start. If the voltage stays at 12v, then there is problem getting the power where it needs to be... if the voltage drops way down, then your battery has a problem [internal cell connection, bad cell, etc.]. Start at the battery, then move your ground connection to the frame somewhere, and then your + to the starter.
If you have good voltage all the way to the starter and your ground is good, you can try jumping the starter solenoid to ensure that the starter will turn over. Most tractors have a start safety switch somewhere in the starter circuit [clutch fully depressed, in neutral, seat, etc.], and limit switches that are intermittent or out of adjustment can easily inhibit the starting [which is why they were put there]. As with any electrical troubleshooting, you start with your known good voltages and find where it stops... and yes, that includes grounds and grounding circuits. Many times, there will be a main electrical connector that goes to the dash, and I've found that they sometimes have issues as moisture and dirt works their way into the connectors... try disconnecting and reconnecting a few times to clean off the connections [or use a plastic safe contact cleaner on them].
If you have good voltage all the way to the starter and your ground is good, you can try jumping the starter solenoid to ensure that the starter will turn over. Most tractors have a start safety switch somewhere in the starter circuit [clutch fully depressed, in neutral, seat, etc.], and limit switches that are intermittent or out of adjustment can easily inhibit the starting [which is why they were put there]. As with any electrical troubleshooting, you start with your known good voltages and find where it stops... and yes, that includes grounds and grounding circuits. Many times, there will be a main electrical connector that goes to the dash, and I've found that they sometimes have issues as moisture and dirt works their way into the connectors... try disconnecting and reconnecting a few times to clean off the connections [or use a plastic safe contact cleaner on them].
qualsite
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2010
- Messages
- 50
By the way, don't forget the starter solenoid. If the contact points in the solenoid are arc pitted, you can get intermittent starting issues. That's the easiest check, by just jumping the start terminal of the solenoid to the positive cable on the starter with a screwdriver [ensure the tractor is in neutral and brake on]. If the solenoid pulls in but the starter doesn't turn, the internal contacts in the solenoid have a problem. Some solenoid contact discs are made to move, which will move to a new contact point on the disc to keep it from wearing down in one spot... sometimes those will move enough to give you contact sometimes, but ends up in a bad spot for other starts. Also, if the rubber seal on the solenoid is cracked, you can get moisture and dirt into the solenoid, and they will not move properly to ensure a consistent start, or sometimes not move at all, if they haven't been used in awhile and moisture has corroded the plunger [voice of experience from my forklift that had water dripping off a lift cylinder right onto the starter solenoid... new solenoid now has plastic wrapped around it].
DieselBound
Elite Member
If you get NO power then it's a connection issue.
On my Kioti I've got this connector off of the positive side of the battery cable that I discovered is a bit flaky. For the first time ever I went to start the tractor after just having it running and it wouldn't crank, I had NO power to the dash. I found that flexing that connector* area resulted in getting a connection back. You might not be able to mess with wiring and turn the key to start but you should be able use your headlights (or such) to indicate if/when you've found the spot in the wiring that's flaky (headlights controlled through dash power, I'd think/expect).
* Picture of it here:
On my Kioti I've got this connector off of the positive side of the battery cable that I discovered is a bit flaky. For the first time ever I went to start the tractor after just having it running and it wouldn't crank, I had NO power to the dash. I found that flexing that connector* area resulted in getting a connection back. You might not be able to mess with wiring and turn the key to start but you should be able use your headlights (or such) to indicate if/when you've found the spot in the wiring that's flaky (headlights controlled through dash power, I'd think/expect).
* Picture of it here:
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
It's a John Deere LA175 with a 26 HP Briggs and Stratton engine.