3-Point Hitch top link

[countrybumpkin]

They still have phones too, maybe try calling them.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I thought I'd revisit this thread for the benefit of NX owners.

The same Cat 2 top link I use on my 6010 21-5/8" - 32-11/16" with my SpeCo Cat 2 Quick Attach which also matches out tractors black grey paint as well.

Here is a slightly shorter (so you can lift an attachment higher but not angle down as far) Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 18 15/16" - 27 3/16"

Both double-acting hydraulic top links feature a locking valve which you absolutely want so your ram doesn't drift when carrying or using an attachment.

Either top link will need a hydraulic top-link hose kit to connect to the 1/2" spool valve quick connects. The kit pretty much works on any hydraulic top link.

I've used both of those on my NX. I suggest the shorter of the two hydraulic top-links if using for Cat1 applications. Either hydraulic top-link will need a flapper disk to shave down and narrow the leading pin spacer of the ram so that it can fit into our NX tractors as Kioti did not leave us with enough clearance, but it is a very minor fitting issue that needs to be done to any Cat 2 RAM. Our NX tractors take a SpeeCo Cat 2 top-link bushing (typically $2.99 at your local store). These same hydraulic Cat 2 top-links also work just fine for CAT 1 applications but require SpeCo Cat2 to Cat1 shims which you can get online or at Tractor Supply or just about any Fleet store. I suggest NX owners stick with the Cat2 RAMs as I bent the RAM on my first hydro top link using scarifiers on my box blade and every one of these NX tractors, regardless of power, weigh the same.

 

[Threepoint]

I thought I'd revisit this thread for the benefit of NX owners.

The same Cat 2 top link I use on my 6010 21-5/8" - 32-11/16" with my SpeCo Cat 2 Quick Attach which also matches out tractors black grey paint as well.

Here is a slightly shorter (so you can lift an attachment higher but not angle down as far) Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 18 15/16" - 27 3/16"

Both double-acting hydraulic top links feature a locking valve which you absolutely want so your ram doesn't drift when carrying or using an attachment.

Either top link will need a hydraulic top-link hose kit to connect to the 1/2" spool valve quick connects. The kit pretty much works on any hydraulic top link.

I've used both of those on my NX. I suggest the shorter of the two hydraulic top-links if using for Cat1 applications. Either hydraulic top-link will need a flapper disk to shave down and narrow the leading pin spacer of the ram so that it can fit into our NX tractors as Kioti did not leave us with enough clearance, but it is a very minor fitting issue that needs to be done to any Cat 2 RAM. Our NX tractors take a SpeeCo Cat 2 top-link bushing (typically $2.99 at your local store). These same hydraulic Cat 2 top-links also work just fine for CAT 1 applications but require SpeCo Cat2 to Cat1 shims which you can get online or at Tractor Supply or just about any Fleet store. I suggest NX owners stick with the Cat2 RAMs as I bent the RAM on my first hydro top link using scarifiers on my box blade and every one of these NX tractors, regardless of power, weigh the same.

Eric, thanks for posting this. I remember well when you bent the rod of that first toplink (Cat 1) a few years ago. I had recently bought the same Cat 1 toplink from the same vendor as you (Haytools.com) for my NX4510HST Cab. So I was especially concerned about it. But I've actually had no problems with mine in 4-1/2 yrs of fairly heavy use.

Which makes me curious about how the Cat 2 AgristoreUSA.com cylinders that you link to on Amazon might differ structurally from their Cat 1 cylinder that they sell. But also how either their Cat 2 or Cat 1 might differ from the Cat 1 cylinder that I'm still using from Haytools.

So, I looked at the Agristore website, and I see that their Cat 1 and Cat 2 cylinders both have 2" bores, with a 8-1/4" stroke, and a rod diameter of 1-3/16". Judging from the specs they list, the only difference seems to be in the ball and pin size. That makes me wonder how the Cat 2 unit could be more durable than the Cat 1. :scratchchin: I'm assuming they both come out of the same factory in China, probably in Shandong, and use the same steel and seals.

AgristoreUSA Cat 2 specs: Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link: 18 15/16" - 27 3/16" | AGRISTORE USA

AgristoreUSA Cat 1 specs: Category 1 Hydraulic Top Link: 18 1/8" - 26 3/8" | AGRISTORE USA

I also just checked the Cat 1 cylinder that I have from Haytools, and note that it, too, has a 2" bore, and a rod diameter of 1-3/16".

Unless the AgrimateUSA Cat 2 cylinder uses a better steel than either their or my Cat 1, I'm not seeing why it would be less susceptible to a bent rod.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Because Cat 2 toplinks can run both Cat 1 and 2 attachments whereas Cat 1 can only attach to Cat 1.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I have used cat 1 on cat 2 equipment plenty of times. When I farmed we were always hooking up one category class to another. I have the cat 1 from surplus center it’s the same dimensions as the others and have had no issues with it.

 

[Threepoint]

Because Cat 2 toplinks can run both Cat 1 and 2 attachments whereas Cat 1 can only attach to Cat 1.

On an NX5510 and NX6010, I'd definitely go with a Cat 2 toplink, since those models are set up for both Cat 1 & 2. I'm just thinking that on the NX4510 and NX5010 (same tractor, with different tuning, wheels and 3pt), the 3pt is set up only for Cat 1. So unless a particular Cat 2 toplink brings more durability, I'm not seeing the additional benefit of it. That's what surprised me a bit, looking at the specs of these widely-available imported toplink cylinders with double-piloted check valves.

CB, I agree that a Cat 1 toplink can be used on Cat 2, and I recently helped a buddy do this. But bushing the pin up is trickier. We had to cut a section of bushing the same thickness of the Cat 2 bracket walls, then capture it with oversize washers on the outside. Worked great, but I wouldn't want to fiddle with that regularly.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

On an NX5510 and NX6010, I'd definitely go with a Cat 2 toplink, since those models are set up for both Cat 1 & 2. I'm just thinking that on the NX4510 and NX5010 (same tractor, with different tuning, wheels and 3pt), the 3pt is set up only for Cat 1. So unless a particular Cat 2 toplink brings more durability, I'm not seeing the additional benefit of it. That's what surprised me a bit, looking at the specs of these widely-available imported toplink cylinders with double-piloted check valves.

CB, I agree that a Cat 1 toplink can be used on Cat 2, and I recently helped a buddy do this. But bushing the pin up is trickier. We had to cut a section of bushing the same thickness of the Cat 2 bracket walls, then capture it with oversize washers on the outside. Worked great, but I wouldn't want to fiddle with that regularly.

I wasn't aware that the NX4510 and 5010 are not identical to the 5510 and 6010 except for the lower links being CAT1. Cat 2 wise, if a person is running a Cat 2 quick-hitch then such a person should get the longer cylinder because there isn't enough fender clearance for the Cat 2 quick-hitch to fit and lifting the three-point with the hydraulic RAM collapsed will cause the Cat 2 Quick Hitch to bash the fenders and break them off (which is why my fenders are both bashed from running too short of the cylinder I first got from Haytools. Considering the Cat 2 capability, I consider the fender clearance a design error on Kioti's part which, after-the-fact also explained to me why every competitor mounts their rear fenders more forward than Kioti for increased three-point clearance. The picture below shows the clearance issue: the Quick Hitch is wider than the fenders and since the fenders stick way out in back, repeated beatings will chip away the rear fender extensions.

 

[Threepoint]

[snip]Considering the Cat 2 capability, I consider the fender clearance a design error on Kioti's part which, after-the-fact also explained to me why every competitor mounts their rear fenders more forward than Kioti for increased three-point clearance. The picture below shows the clearance issue: the Quick Hitch is wider than the fenders and since the fenders stick way out in back, repeated beatings will chip away the rear fender extensions.

Yes, good advice. Your photo really shows the problem. If Kioti still has not improved the fender clearance on the newer NX5510 and NX6010 models, they should turn to it, IMO. There are a lot of CUT owners using that style of QH on their tractors, like me. So if their CUT's 3pt set up is both Cat 1 & 2, they logically would choose a Cat 2 QH. In the case of Kioti NX5510 and NX6010 owners, my guess is there are more than a few cracked rear fenders out there.

Even with my Cat 1 3pt set up on the NX4510, there is only a small amount of clearance when the hitch is raised and the toplink fully retracted. This pic shows it. BTW, in the photo, the depth of field produces a distorted sense of dimension. The 84" box blade looks wider than the rear tread width. In fact, the big Titan turfs are 83", sidewall to sidewall. But the width of the QH top frame and levers accurately appear as barely clearing the rear fenders, which they do.

 

[CoyPatton]

There can be variations in the quality of steel. When steel is too soft, Top Link threads can strip during an unusual, transitory heavy load, like hitting a stump pulling a loaded Box Blade. I replaced one stripped Top Link.

There is also some variation in the extendable length of Top Links between brands. All Top Links presumably meet the minimum length but a few will extend a bit more than others.

There are threads in the archive describing projects when tractor owners have customized their Top Link with longer threads for some special purpose. Not always simple, as most Top Links have keeper fittings internally to prevent surprise separation of the fixture, top and bottom.

Some Top Links have metric thread. Most USA Top Links are inch standard.

A replacement Category 1 Kubota factory Top Link is nearly $300 from the dealer.
Tractor Supply Co., Rural King, Agri Supply, etc., all inventory Category 1 Top Links for <$50.

You guys are talking apples and oranges.
A hydro top link will have no threads. It will be a hydraulic cylinder very similar to a loader cylinder.
NOTE:VERY SIMILAR NOT THE SAME!
It will be made for the top link position with the correct connection. Typically you run it off of rear remotes.

Threads are on standard top links. Left handed on one end and right handed on the other.

Hopefully this helps steer some folks the right direction. You will not find a hydro top link for <$50 anywhere.

 

[SGreene]

Thank you Eric. Nice write up.