Top link ratchet adjustment

ovrszd · Mar 1, 2017

Nice work. You are definitely "handy".

gwstang · Mar 2, 2017

Say! Do you need a new next door neighbor/friend? You would be mighty handy to be next too.

One thing I like about your new device is not having to get the hands greasy from adjusting said top link. Every time I wipe off the three point stuff and nice and clean....but, it always seems to attract grease from wherever. I hate to be out in the field and get greasy as all get out. Steering wheel/seat/fenders....just everything that gets touched afterwards. The nice device you have created would stop that for sure. :thumbsup:

Catman8 · Mar 2, 2017

gwstang said:
Say! Do you need a new next door neighbor/friend? You would be mighty handy to be next too.

One thing I like about your new device is not having to get the hands greasy from adjusting said top link. Every time I wipe off the three point stuff and nice and clean....but, it always seems to attract grease from wherever. I hate to be out in the field and get greasy as all get out. Steering wheel/seat/fenders....just everything that gets touched afterwards. The nice device you have created would stop that for sure. :thumbsup:

I know what your saying, that darn grease always finds a way to hitch a ride on us humans.

Thanks again everyone for the compliments.

Zick · Mar 2, 2017

Nice,
I always thought there should be a top link made like this but never found one.

fried1765 · Mar 2, 2017

Catman8 said:
I cannot afford hydraulic TNT at the moment so I made a lever out of a chain binder to adjust my top link from the operators seat.

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I took a 5/16" - 3/8" ratchet binder and used the parts from it to fabricate my top link.

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Cut off the plastic grip with a razor knife and you will notice that the holes for the roll pins are only drilled in one side of the cylinder, you will need to drill two more holes on the opposite side so you can drive out the roll pins to be able to unscrew the threads from the cylinder. I did not think about drilling out two holes and I used a chop saw.

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I cut a 2" section out of the cylinder that did not have internal threads and machined two snap ring groves and I cut a slot for a woodruff key.

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Then I TIG welded the part to the end of the top link and painted the top link.

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I then drilled four holes in the sprocket and tapped 1/4-20" threads for Alan screws, and I filed a notch for the woodruff key.

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I then assembled the parts.

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I bought a "Ratchet Jack" from Agri-Supply, and changed the clevis ends to standard 3pt. threaded ball ends, achieving a similar result, but without the folding ratchet handle.
The Agri-Supply SKU is 38124, and the cost is $29.99 + the cost for the threaded ball ends.
Your solution requires more work, but I think I like your result (folding handle) better.

Catman8 · Mar 2, 2017

fried1765 said:
I bought a "Ratchet Jack" from Agri-Supply, and changed the clevis ends to standard 3pt. threaded ball ends, achieving a similar result, but without the folding ratchet handle.
The Agri-Supply SKU is 38124, and the cost is $29.99 + the cost for the threaded ball ends.
Your solution requires more work, but I think I like your result (folding handle) better.

After I bought my tractor I was surprised to see such a Stone Age device being used to adjust the three point, you think the tractor manufacturers would have done some improvements over the years to make the adjustment more user friendly. Before I built my ratchet top link I did do some research and found others who had the same idea but did not use a folding handle. Just curious, what is the Ratchet Jack used for in its original form before you converted it.

If you could figure out a way to make the handle fold down it would be like mine and would be cheaper, because that ratchet binder I used is not cheap.

Musdalen · Mar 2, 2017

the ratchet jacks sold at Theissens for ~$40 look like they would work as fried1765 suggests. The handles come off with a simple pin. In fact there would be no reason to actually install the pin at all. The handle could be stored in a toolbox on the tractor and just inserted in the ratchet when needed pulled out and stored in the tool box when not needed. Not as fancy as the folder, but it would be out of the way, easy and cheap. I don't know if the threads will work with ball ends, but I think I'll check it out.
Double HH Ratchet Jack With Pins (Double HH 393

2), Tractor Hydraulic Repair | Farm | Ranch | Theisens.com

Catman8 · Mar 2, 2017

Zick said:
Nice,
I always thought there should be a top link made like this but never found one.

I searched for one on google and this is the only one I found but it looks like you need to remove the handle if you don't want it sticking up. I wanted one that folded, so I figured why not just build one, fun project.

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Catman8 · Mar 2, 2017

Musdalen said:
the ratchet jacks sold at Theissens for ~$40 look like they would work as fried1765 suggests. The handles come off with a simple pin. In fact there would be no reason to actually install the pin at all. The handle could be stored in a toolbox on the tractor and just inserted in the ratchet when needed pulled out and stored in the tool box when not needed. Not as fancy as the folder, but it would be out of the way, easy and cheap. I don't know if the threads will work with ball ends, but I think I'll check it out.
Double HH Ratchet Jack With Pins (Double HH 39392), Tractor Hydraulic Repair | Farm | Ranch | Theisens.com

My only concern with a handle sticking up is that I would raise my three point and crush the handle into the back of the tractor, if I was using a box blade and was constantly adjusting the top link I would hate to insert and remove a handle each time. I'm sure it would be easy to figure out a way to make the handle fold down and then you would be good to go for a good price,