Top link only shortens from one end??

[FrogLick]

I needed to hook up a new implement that required shortening the top link from my more common length but only one end of the top link would screw into the turn buckle part. Both ends are threaded and even with one end screwed in all the way I'm still a little long to make the connection easily. One end of the turn buckle has a hex nut that I thought was a lock nut but it appears to be welded (?) and even a wrench won't get that end of the link to screw either in or out; the other end can be easily adjusted by hand. I'd really like to adjust this length correctly and with both ends screwed in an equal amount but can't figure out why one end won't budge. I'm really stumped so any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[HCJtractor]

The nut is a lock nut and it shouldn't be welded. However, make sure you are trying to move it in the proper direction with your wrench as this threading may be reverse. I always forget what direction to turn this nut to unlock it, so I have marked this with paint on my tractor so I do not inadvertantly tighten it rather than loosen it. You may have been tightening it all along. Use lots of liquid wrench first to break it free. In the future, when you do break it free, disassemble it entirely, apply lithium grease to the threads, and this will help to keep it moving freely. Then remember, or mark the lock nut so you turn it the proper direction so as not to tighten it by mistake.

 

[FrogLick]

It was always my impression that this nut was a locknut but I can't seem to free it no matter which way I try to turn using plenty of penetrating oil and force. That and also looking at it carefully made me think that maybe it was welded to the turnbuckle part, but maybe it's just a really good paint job! No paint would hold it against the force I've tried but I'll try again when I get some time. Unfortunately there's no flat spot on the turnbuckle part so using a second wrench on there to turn against is a problem. Maybe a little heat is in order?

 

[Bird]

I'd probably put it in a vise or use a pipe wrench to hold the barrel while turning the nut, and all the top link lock nuts I've had experience with were right handed thread; i.e., as you turn it to move it away from the barrel of the link.

 

[FrogLick]

I did put it in a vise but maybe just didn't really apply enough force worrying about breaking something and then really being out of commission. If I ever get this thing loose I certainly won't tighten it up this much in the future. Then again, maybe just implement vibration and normal stresses got it all really tight in the first place.

 

[BotaBigot]

Sometimes a little "impact" action is required. Smack the wrench with a hammer...after you've determined which way loosens the nut...

If all else fails, go to store and get a replacement...aftermarket ones usually aren't that expensive.

 

[kthompson]

Sitting here can not remember which direction the top part with the lock nut is on my small Kubota and can not remember but is there not two little squares welded on the side of the barrel that will give shoulders for a pipe wrench? At same time the lock nut on mine has a little piece of round rod welded to it and that might be what makes it look like it is welded to the barrel. If I do not tighten the lock nut on mine it will vibrate in use changing the length. It is my guess yours is so tight from not being used. I rather leave mine on the tractor and break it loose there. Back to which direction it turns, one end has left handed threads and the other right hand so which ever way the end that will turns does, this one is opposite.

 

[john_bud]

The nut is normal (righty tighty). The other end of the top link is abnormal (Lefty tighty)

I use 2 big adjustable wrenches and whack the one with the other - works every time.

jb

 

[Egon]

As the one end turns you can determine the direction to turn the nut by holding both ends in place and turning the center portion. I know the one end will not turn but it will give you the proper direction.

Place a hammer under the stuck nut and give it a good whack with another hammer. Do this on several different flats.

Snipes may also help.

Another way to figure out which direction is to place your fingernail on a thread and then turn the turnbuckle. You can watch which way your fingernail goes.

 

[Skyco]

Snipes may also help.

??????

 

[CCWKen]

I had one lock up on my tractor. I finally got the lock nut loose but couldn't turn the adjustment. No matter what I tried, it wouldn't budge. Heat, 24" pipe wrench and a cheater bar on that. Started crushing and twisting the link. Ended up buying a new link for $20. I packed the lower end with white grease. That's where water sits and rusts the threads. The top adjuster is just greased. Haven't had a problem since.

 

[Tom_H]

Did you remember that one goes clockwise and the other counterclockwise? It could be that you (or someone else before you) were trying to loosen it, but were actually tightening it more and more, until it froze.

You might put some WD-40 on it, let it sit a few days, put it in the freezer for a few hours so the metal contracts slightly), take it out, heat the lock-nut slightly with a with a torch (so the nut expands), lay the nut straight on an anvil, put a ball-peen hammer on top and whack it hard with a sledge straight perpendicular on the nut (so shock will unfreeze the pressure where metal is jammed against metal), put it in a big bench vice, lock it down well, put the longest open end wrench you have on it-do NOT use a crescent as the jaws just don't stay tight and will round-over the vertices [corners] of the hex nut), slip a longer steel or iron pipe over the handle to get more torque, then have at it. Once loosened, the lithium grease mentioned above will be a good preventative to a repeat.

The reason one goes clockwise and the other counter, is so you can tighten and loosen it with both ends stationary, like a turnbuckle. If a 3ph implement is already attached, you can shorten and lengthen the link without disconnecting it. You loosen the lock-nut, adjust, then retighten the lock-nut, all w/o disconnecting the ends. The reason that rectangular loop is on the side is so you can slip in a big screwdriver, chisel end tire tool, pipe, etc. under it as a lever and get some torque to turn the thing in this manner.

 

[Egon]

Snipe:


In some localities that is terminology for a piece of pipe that will slip over the handle of a wrench to give more leverage.

With combination wrenches it is not uncommon to combine two to get more leverage.

 

[Tom_H]

Ever heard of snipe hunting? Some think that term is used in a facetious manner, but snipe truly is the common name for the avian genus Capella. All the species in this genus are shore and marsh birds, usually with slender bills. A sniper shoots at a distance from a hidden location to pick-off the snipe, whereas the practice of sniping involves hurling written/verbal epithets from a distant hidden or safe location (online, in newspaper, behind someone's back) in order to pick on someone.

 

[Egon]

Yes, the different versions of "Snipe"

You fellows should come along on a Snipe Hunt usually conducted after dark!

 

[Tom_H]

Yea, helped carry some folks on that kind'a snipe hunt in my younger years. Too old to pull that sort'a stunt now. It was a shock, when taking ornithology in college, to learn that snipe really existed.

 

[Skyco]

Snipe:


In some localities that is terminology for a piece of pipe that will slip over the handle of a wrench to give more leverage.

With combination wrenches it is not uncommon to combine two to get more leverage.

Ok! Hadn't heard that term before...have to admit I've sniped before

 

[FrogLick]

Got it loose finally and didn't manage to break anything or bloody any knuckles! Guess the penetrating oil needed to soak in a couple of days and a bigger wrench always helps too.

 

[DmansPadge]

Snipe:


In some localities that is terminology for a piece of pipe that will slip over the handle of a wrench to give more leverage.

Down here I call that a "cheater pipe"