Xfaxman
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2013
- Messages
- 12,889
- Location
- Guthrie, OK
- Tractor
- Toolcat 5610 G - Bobcat V417 - TORO+Loader
Crushed Asphalt, not milled, is what I recommend.
A third nomination for this idea. Basically how I built my drive. 2-3" crushed concrete makes a very sturdy construction driveway. Get the dirt base properly crowned up with ditches on each side first. Then 4-6" thick of this layer. Top with a nicer, natural stone to finish. On my driveway, I went with 3/4"-minus CLEAN limestone, mixed with some 3/4"-minus clean Natural (mixed colors / rock types) and NO FINES. I know everyone here just loves their fines so that everything locks together like concrete. You know what else it does? holds water, doesn't drain, and makes rigid pot holes that splash brown water onto your cars. My driveway surface might be kinda loose, but I can still rip 15 mph without spinning out or tearing it up. Even have a good 30' of hill to climb to get up to the road, no problems. Zero pot holes, zero water splashing or mud. I just have to dress it up a few times per year, an easy 10 minutes of fun on the tractor.Maybe crushed concrete for a lower layer with a gravel topping?
Bruce
Probably a local terminology thing. We use milled (right off the road) has bigger chunks for base and reground (seconds) has been passed through the grinder a second time. Seconds contain small aggregate and fines. Some of the guys here are laying out with a paver and rolling em in. Right now, local price is 175 for first and 250 for second (20ish ton loads) trailer load runs 325 (25ish tons). At the plant, you get 4 scoops (20ish tons) on a triaxle, a trailer gets 5 scoops.Crushed Asphalt, not milled, is what I recommend.
Around here, slag is a byproduct of a smelting plant that is a glass like material. It's shiny, but it's very brittle and it does not lock together. It also sticks to your shoes, so you are always tracking it into the house.Slag, if you can get it.