Top and Tilt l2501 DIY

   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #21  
Thanks for the info.

I did look at those Prince valves and couldn't find a 12v valve. And whilst I think it's a great idea those Prince valves are expensive enough, but I would have considered it if they had the 12v.

If the Bucher are more expensive I will forget going this way, especially seeing as I'm throwing darts as to if I even need another valve down the track.
They make 12v work sections, they are pricy though!

 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #24  
Here's the stack.
2064476290.jpg
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#25  
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#26  
So I went and looked at the Busch valves and they are actually not that expensive when you look at what options it opens.

A 2 spool valve with PB plug and bracket is $471, which is a good $300 more than a generic 2 spool valve.

But adding a busch electric solenoid valve is $487. I know you need to add extra bits and pieces to that ie button joystick etc. Buying longer bolts to go this path is cheap at around $10-12 when you want to add another section to the busch stack.

To me it looks like you might come out ahead of a 2 spool plus separate 3rd function kit and the plumbing would be neater?

Is there anything I am missing here or does that sound correct?

I've changed my mind about having a 3 spool valve with 1 for a possible future grapple. From research the majority say it's a pain to take your hand off the joystick instead of just using a button.

Man it's hard to decide which way to jump...

I did find a link to this 3rd function kit on the orange forum, looks like a good buy.

 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I can attest that the Bucher valves are top notch. And if multiple floats are important to you, you can do that with the Bucher valves but not the Prince SV ones.
They do look nice. I didn't plan to have float on either of the valves. I will be grooming the trails around my 5 acre property which get beaten up from my buggy and 3 wheeler.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I was looking at getting this top link which has a double pilot check valve.


Which I thought in my use case would work as I figure I want my box blade to stay where I set it. My trail sections are short and tight with slope variations. I do not have a long driveway to maintain.

My understanding is a float valve will not work with the check valve?
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#29  
And this was the side link I'm looking at, though need to check dimensions.


Again it has the check valve.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #30  
My last thoughts on this, I rarely use my side link (using the manual one stinks but it would work for what I need). I built my road down to my creek without it!

Since you have forks, you will most likely not have to use a grapple.

A toplink and a single spool is all you need with your box blade.

TBN is great to talk you into a $1500, 4 spool valve with several buttons!!! You also need to upgrade to a L6060... :ROFLMAO:
 

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