Toothbar on Koyker bucket

[quicksandfarmer]

I probably could get this from Koyker or my dealer, but I thought it would be quicker and more interesting to ask here...

I want to put a toothbar on my loader bucket. I have Jinma 354 with a Koyker 160 loader and a 60" bucket. I'd like to get it soon, so I can do some brush clearing before spring springs. The only problem is I'm away from my tractor and won't be back until the first week of April, so I can't measure my bucket. So... is there anyone out there with the same bucket who can send me the measurements? I need the width of the inside and the thickness of the bottom.

To make this of more general interest, is there anyone who has put a toothbar on who has wisdom to share? I'm looking at three options: the Markham which seems highly regarded around here, and then two I've seen on Ebay, this one:

eBay: FREE SHPG Tooth Bar,Toothbar,Front End Loader 59"Bucket (item 320048105731 end time Mar-11-07 09:10:55 PDT)

and this one:

eBay: Bucket Tooth Teeth Bar TWIN TIGER Skid Steer Tractor (item 120009456147 end time Mar-12-07 17:58:05 PDT)

There is something about the "Twin Tiger" teeth that appeals to me.


Thanks.

 

[johnk]

I had a Koyker 160 and put a Markham toothbar on it. The difference was incredible. You just have to take your time and try to keep it out of 4WD if possible so you don't strain the front axle. I had 160 on my 224 and it was a workhorse.

 

[bluechip]

Last time I looked, Koyker did not offer a toothbar. Of course loaders are not intended or necessarily designed for digging, which would seem to be the main use of a tooth bar. While 200 series Jinmas have had some issues with front differential failure when using loaders in 4wd, I don't think it has been a problem with the 300 series. It has not been a problem on the KAMA tractors we have sold both of which are much heavier chassis than the 200 series. adequate counter weight on the 3 point is necessary on any tractor to assure that you dont drive the entire load off the front axle alone. these are technically front wheel assist tractors, not true 4 wheel drive.

 

[johnk]

Bluechip,
I think loaders should be used for digging or why by a loader? As long as you don't violently abuse it the tractor should hold up. I had a 224 Jinma and just took it slow and left it out of 4 WD when carrying a load and it proved to be a real workhorse. I think most of the damage to these machines happens when in 4WD with the bucket curled downward and curlng it up to take a bite. If pushing forward and curling in 4WD I think this is probably the most strain the front end will endure. The second most force on the front end would be to have a bucket load and as dropping quickly stop it before it bottoms out. The third most and common one would be having a a full load and making a tight turn in 4 WD. I think if loader work is done carefully the tractor should hold up. Mine did and I used it for a lot of digging and never had a problem with the front end.. The Jinma was a good tractor for the price but you have to use it in its range of capabilities... I wouldn't buy a loader if I couldn't dig with it after spending that kind of money.. Just my opinion....

 

[bluechip]

Don't get me wrong, digging is often done, the effectiveness depending a lot to do with the ground conditions. Still, it is in there with using a screw driver for prying, pliers on nuts, and an adjustable wrench as a hammer. I'll admit I've done all of these but they are not the intended use of those tools. (but it usually works)

 

[Bob Rooks]

Understood.
Kinda like following OSHA'S safety regulations.

 

[johnk]

I think common sense is the best virtue with anything you do. A little digging here and there shouldn't hurt anything.. I used to use my 224 for some pretty serious digging and moving rocks around. Slow and careful was how I worked and it performed well..

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Hi, original poster back, good discussion. Just to clarify a bit, I'm not looking to do any heavy excavation. My primary job is clearing brush, which is mostly multiflora rose, blackberry and other thorns. I thought I could knock it down with a rotary mower, but the stuff is too thick to drive a tractor through. While thick, it's not particularly strong. Lately what I've been doing is taking a towing strap, making a loop, and crawling into the bush and hooking as much as I can. I can pull out pretty big chunks easily, but it is slow going, getting off the tractor, crawling around and getting back on.

I'm hoping that a toothbar would let me rip this stuff out and move it around more easily. Is this the wrong approach? Is there something else that would work better?

(And back to my original question, can anyone tell me the dimensions of the Koyker bucket?)

Thanks everyone.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I had some thick stuff to get rid of and what I did was bush hog in reverse with the hog up about a foot. I did this along a old 900' fence line. I then went back through in forward a few times to get a finish cut.

Chris

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I had some thick stuff to get rid of and what I did was bush hog in reverse with the hog up about a foot. I did this along a old 900' fence line. I then went back through in forward a few times to get a finish cut.

Chris

I tried that. If I can get over the bushes I can mow them no problem. Some of these roses are 9' tall and they make a thick mat that is impenetrable. I can't get the mower high enough to go over the bushes and I don't have enough traction just to push the full width of the mower through sideways. It is pretty muddy this time of year and I don't get a whole lot of traction. Maybe I need to wait until it is drier, although it's easier to clear before the stuff leafs out. I suppose I could play with the hitch geometry and raise the mower higher, but I'm a little leary of getting it too far up in the air for safety reasons.

The same thing happens when I try to go into the brush forward. The bucket on the loader hooks a wide swath of tangled vegetation, and then the wheels spin. The brush isn't strong, and the branches aren't thick, there's just so much of it.

I'm thinking with a toothbar I can tear the brush up by getting under it and lifting it. The plain bucket has no grab and just slips off the branches.

I appreciate everyone's input.

 

[greg_g]

I'm thinking that - for the price of an otherwise limited use toothbar - you could probably hire a bulldozer to come in and tear that stuff up. Once the natural integrity has been compromised, it will be easier for you to come behind and chop what's left up with your rotary cutter.

//greg//

 

[zogman]

It's not about getting some one else to do it...How are ya going to collect any toys or tractor accessories if you hire out?

 

[johnk]

I'm with you Zogman, I bought my tractor to use it not to worry about it. Tractors have been in existance for a long time and were made to work. If I wanted someone else to do my work I wouldn't have made the initial investment. If I was worried about it breaking because of some chores I wouldn't have bought it. I had a Jinma 224 that worked great. A little undependable but I needed a bigger tractor because of more acreage. I bought the one I have now that suits my neeeds and I'm not worried about petty stuff. It's a tractor for for Gods sake, not a China doll that I have to sit in a barn worried if it can do the work. Pedal to the metal so to speak. Just my 2 cents. If you want to baby your tractor in fear OF BREAKING IT WHY BUY IT IN THE FIRST PLACE? Spring is almost sprung around here except for the 2 1/2 feet of snow on the ground...

 

[firewalker]

I've had some luck pushing the bulk of the bush too the side and then going at the base with either a chain saw or lopers. Of course I use the tractor to do the pushing!! Multi flora is such a pain in the rump to deal with (literally, the thorns are murder)

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I thought I'd update this thread in case anyone needs it for future reference.

I ended up getting the United Steelworks toothbar. The measurements I sent them were 60" long and 5/8" thick. The toothbar fits perfectly. For installation I used a "unibit" style stepped drill bit that I got at Harbor Freight for $9 for a set of three, and it drilled through the sides of the bucket in no time.

Overall, I'm very pleased with it, it's great for tearing up brush and uprooting small trees. The teeth also work something like scarifiers for backdragging. I do have to be careful with it, as I can quickly make a mess of the lawn if I'm not paying attention to my bucket position. It's not as useful for excavation as I thought it might be; I understand now why backhoes have stabilizers and an articulated boom, as the tractor feels real tippy when I try to take a big bite.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

My homemade toothbar works great grubbing and/or backdragging !@#$%^& - I mean multiflora rose out of the ground. I get much more satisfaction getting roots and all compared to cutting it off with a shredder. I'm sure you will enjoy similar results.

Brad