Took me less than two hours to

[Steve_Miller]

Bend the tie rod on my new CK30. Was there a new modified version on the latest CK25/30's for the tie rod placement or tie rod itself?. The one I have was a leftover 2006, couldn't pass up on trading in the old CK20 and moving up.

Steve

 

[Highbeam]

You've got the little te-rod. The newer ones are a larger diameter than the nuts. It looks interchangable with the only difference being the bigger rod diameter but I would rather bend the rod than break the hub ear.

Welcome to the club. Did you even feel it happen?

 

[williekioti]

.......but I would rather bend the rod than break the hub ear.

I concur. I'd rather the rod be the weak link. It can happen on any tractor. One of my co-workers has a TC35 w/Ags, much higher ground clearance but he still bent his. If you had higher clearance you'd just try to drive over higher obstacles. Put it in a vise, bend 'er back, re-install and adjust alignment as needed.

 

[Highbeam]

You'll need some heat to bend it back unless you are super man. It is solid and very stiff. A new one is not too expensive. Heck, I've even got a new one on the shelf for a back up so they must not have been too much money.

Be careful not to rip the tie rod end boot when you pickle fork the end off.

 

[TractorLegend]

How bout putting a chain around it, tying it to a tree and putting the gear selector in R for "repair" :~}
Theres always one in the crowd......

 

[TractorLegend]

Be careful not to rip the tie rod end boot when you pickle fork the end off.

They have tie rod end pullers that aren't much more than a pickle fork and will save the boots on parts you want to reinstall, sometimes one can get lucky backing tie rod taper nut off flush and smacking it squarely with a hammer...given theres clearance for a good swing with a 5# hammer.

 

[mrutkaus]

There's no need to straighten it; you'll just bend it again.

The tractor doesn't know it is bent, just adjust the toe in (about 1/2" as I remember, check) and that's it.

No kidding, mine even looks better bent, it looks like it was made that way to give the most clearance.

Mike

 

[Jaybr]

They have tie rod end pullers that aren't much more than a pickle fork and will save the boots on parts you want to reinstall, sometimes one can get lucky backing tie rod taper nut off flush and smacking it squarely with a hammer...given theres clearance for a good swing with a 5# hammer.

I haven't done a tractor tie rod yet, but many trucks and atv's. I always smack the side of the spindle with the hammer, not the tie rod stud. If the tires off the ground putting a little pulling pressure on the tie rod end the end will usually pop right out.

I also have a couple tools that works great for removing them as long as they fit the particular tie rod end.

American Presto TIE ROD END AND BALL JOINT REMOVAL TOOLS : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories

 

[RedRocker]

I let the bucket lead the way when I go in to un-charted territory.

 

[Highbeam]

I let the bucket lead the way when I go in to un-charted territory.

Me too, even when brushhogging fields I set the loader down low engough to snag rocks or stumps before the tie rod. This also reduces hitting mole mounds with the mower.