Too much tractor?

[anewuser]

It's been nearly a year since I first posted about looking for my first tractor. I'm ready now to buy a 35-45HP tractor for my 7 acre place. Mostly flat, mostly pasture (barn and 2 horses), with some wooded areas surrounding the pasture.

I've been looking at used Kubotas. My neighbor has a 25hp, and less acreage. I've priced new - and although the interest rate and discounts are attractive - the 20% down is a non-starter. The only other local dealer is JD. As I've read here, I'm trying to figure out what implements and sizes I need, and finding a tractor to meet those needs, rather than the other way around. My primary need is cutting grass, but want a hefty FEL for moving downed trees and other carrying duties. The cutter should be no smaller than 5 or 6 feet, but not too big, so I can get between some of the trees. I'd also like to have a post-hole digger and a landscape rake. I've focused mainly on the "L" series. I think the "B" models are a little too lightweight, and an L would be easier to sell if I ever need to. I'd love a Grand L, but probably don't have the budget.

My local 'bota dealer sells all his trades to some guy (I haven't been able to find out what he does with them). I keep track of Craigslist and Facebook sellers, but those are very iffy. So I'm comparing tractors at distant seller locations. I'm going to have to drive at least 2 hours to look, but most places list on TractorHouse or MachineryPete, so I have an idea what they have on the lot. In the meantime, a local western store and trailer dealer has been buying and reselling tractors, mostly from individuals. I don't think he goes to auctions, but I could be wrong. I know the family, they've been local farmers for generations - and know tractors - so I told him I was ready to buy. He just bought a MX4700 with a 7 foot cutter from an individual and I'm going to look at it today.

All this to ask: is 47HP too much? Is an MX model too big? I know I should probably be the one to say if it's too big or ok, but I'd like some other perspectives. The L's I've been looking at are 3400, 3800, 3830, 3901, and 4400. I think the 3400 PTO (~29hp) is about the minimum I want to go with for a 5 to 6 foot rotary cutter. I want an HST, so I can teach my wife to use it, R4s because our ground is sandy and soft, and preferably a SSQA bucket. The 4700 is an HST with R4s, but a pin-on bucket. The 3830 with a 723 FEL would be great, but is a gear drive. The 3901 is what I'm primarily comparing to the 4700, although the 4400 is very attractive (though it has R1s). The 3901 doesn't really compare with the 4700, hence my question - is the MX too much tractor for my needs? Besides frame/tires, what other differences are there between the L and MX?

And, last question: since I don't think I can find the ideal machine, with my budget, what's best to compromise on - HP, FEL capacity, transmission, tires, SSQA?

One other consideration: weight. I've read enough on this forum to know that weight can be a big advantage. But I don't currently have a trailer big enough to haul a tractor, and my half-ton pickup is rated with a 10,000 lb towing capacity. Is a 7k or 10k trailer with a 3800 pound (dry) tractor and implements going to be too much to pull?

Thanks for your opinions.
Laner

 

[YLee Kioti]

About a 6' cutter. If a medium duty is considered ( due to having a wooded/woody area) then find out if teh FEL can handle the counter weight act.

A medium cutter (6') can weigh from 680lb to 1200 lbs).
When I got the CK4010HST the largest medium duty cutter dealer said I could run was a 5' medium duty. Anything larger would make the front end light.
So consider type of cutters sold in your area and what a 6 footer would weigh and then ask your dealers if the front end would get light using one.
A light versus medium duty. That should help with the size of tractor as it seems it will be the largest use of a PTO horse power.
Once that is determined then all other attachments should be none issue.
Hope this helps a tad.

 

[majorwager]

I own an MX, also have a 22 pto hp ford which currently has a five ft woods rotary mounted. I have completed many tasks w/ BOTH tractors.

It is absolutely amazing what a 2000 lb tractor can accomplish. A fl member believes everyone needs a 4000 lb tractor. I disagree.

Other members will offer opinions. Condition of the tractor, drivetrain and features along w/ operating hrs, AND COST are the important variables. I would opt for a better deal for lesser hp/wt. Than higher hp but less favorable condition. Knowing tractor history and use is always an advantage. Be aware that some tractor sales are actually stolen equipment. Research serial # before payment.

EDIT

Jeffy, my MX, ROPS folded is under 7 ft. And an 8 ft duel spindle rotary consumes less hp than 7 ft single spindle.

 

[newbury]

It's been nearly a year since I first posted about looking for my first tractor. I'm ready now to buy a 35-45HP tractor for my 7 acre place. Mostly flat, mostly pasture (barn and 2 horses), with some wooded areas surrounding the pasture.
<snip>
All this to ask: is 47HP too much? Is an MX model too big? <snip>
Not if your wallet can afford it.
And, last question: since I don't think I can find the ideal machine, with my budget, what's best to compromise on - HP, FEL capacity, transmission, tires, SSQA?

One other consideration: weight. I've read enough on this forum to know that weight can be a big advantage. But I don't currently have a trailer big enough to haul a tractor, and my half-ton pickup is rated with a 10,000 lb towing capacity. Is a 7k or 10k trailer with a 3800 pound (dry) tractor and implements going to be too much to pull?

Thanks for your opinions.
Laner

How would you compromise on:
HP? Get smaller tractor?
FEL capacity? see above
Transmission? HST vs gear?
Tires? Turf vs R4?
SSQA - can always be added afterwards.

With a 10K tow rating on your truck a trailer rated for 10K (figure 2K for the trailer, with 4K tractor and 2K of implements) should be fine. Don't go 7K trailer.

As far as tractor sizing it seems you only have to worry about lifting "downed trees". When all I had was a B7610 I just chopped them up smaller. With my M4700 I can lift a ton. It seems like if you don't need to lift long logs in one piece (like I do for my sawmill) the 25HP Kubota might serve you fine. I would not go geared unless there was a significant cost savings, like there was for my M4700.

As far as weight goes - it's a lot easier to add weight to the tractor for more traction. It's more difficult to strip down a bare tractor.

 

[jeff9366]

In the meantime, a local western store and trailer dealer has been buying and reselling tractors, mostly from individuals. He just bought a MX4700 with a 7 foot cutter from an individual and I'm going to look at it today.

All this to ask: is 47HP too much? Is an MX model too big? Is the MX too much tractor for my needs? Besides frame/tires, what other differences are there between the L and MX?

An MX will not fit in a garage with an 84" entry height, even with ROPS folded.

You will need 50 gross engine horsepower to operate a seven foot R/C in fairly long grass.

Standard L's and MX are both produced to hit competitive price points. The primary difference is weight rather than kit.

In terms of size, an MX is only 9" longer than L2501/3301/3901.

An MX is 15" wider than L2501/3301/3901 due to quite large wheels/tires on the MXs. MX tractors have larger front wheels and tires than the Grand L series.

Certainly ample tractor for seven acres.

New operators may be intimidated by size for first 20 engine hours, offset by feeling of great stability from weight.

 

[HEC]

An MX will not fit in a garage with an 84" entry height, even with ROPS folded.


I have the m5700 and I put it in my garage ( 84" opening ) as I have flat land and took off the top part of Rops .

 

[majorwager]

An MX will not fit in a garage with an 84" entry height, even with ROPS folded.

You will need 45 to 50 gross engine horsepower to operate a seven foot R/C in fairly long grass.

Standard L's and MX are both produced to hit competitive price points. The primary difference will be weight rather than kit.

Jeffy, what is kit?

In terms of size, an MX is only 9" longer than L2501/3301/3901.

An MX is 15" wider than L2501/3301/3901 due to quite large wheels/tires on the MXs.

Certainly ample tractor for seven acres.

What is kit? My MX is less that 7 ft, ROPS folded. And the MX has considerable wheel width adjustment.
Can't always quote a specification, preferably owning the tractor allows greater accuracy

 

[anewuser]

Just got back from looking at the MX. 675 hrs, 2012. The motor is in very good condition, bucket was a little bowed on the bottom, 3-point looked good. Didn't see any leaks. Had a little strange vibration/shimmy from the rear end while running about 7 or 8 mph across gravel. Not sure if that's an issue or not - really needed to drive it on pavement but couldn't.

Certainly a no-frills, get-it-done tractor. Not worried about parking it, ROPS up or down, I don't have a garage. Planning to add an extension on the side of the barn to cover whatever I get. Not sold on it yet - going to try to look at the L4400 on Monday. He said he's had 4400s too, a little smaller, not as wide, a little lighter - what I'd expect...pretty much echoing what's been said here. For about the same $$, the 4000 has about 500 hours less, so it's not really coming down to price.

 

[majorwager]

anewuser.

If the mx has been sitting and it had nylon tires, They develop a small flat spot on the bottom of the tire, Not really noticeable on soil surfaces but on a hardened surface, yes. After they warm up a bit, the roundness returns and symptoms disappear. Probably more noticeable w/ non-loaded tires. Takes longer to resolve in the winter, tire warms more slowly. Possible explanation? Slightly worse w/ industrial tread.

I had a 7 ft cutter, two much surface area for only two blades. Was glad to see it sold. An 8 ft, twin spindle significant less drain on hp.

 

[anewuser]

anewuser.
If the mx has been sitting and it had nylon tires, They develop a small flat spot on the bottom of the tire, Not really noticeable on soil surfaces but on a hardened surface, yes. After they warm up a bit, the roundness returns and symptoms disappear. Probably more noticeable w/ non-loaded tires. Takes longer to resolve in the winter, tire warms more slowly. Possible explanation? Slightly worse w/ industrial tread.

Nylon? That's a new one on me, but then everything tractor is new on me! They are industrial, and non-loaded. Temp is about 85, warm enough for me, but not like the triple digits we had recently.