Too Hot?

/ Too Hot?
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I emailed Bobby at Fredricks and gave him all the info I've shared here and asked if he thought I had a problem. He said that I didn't; all the temps were normal and that I should be careful to not overwork a small diesel like I have. He said that every tractor is different in the way those temp gauges read. I think he meant that one that showed the needle at the middle might be running the same temp as another that shows it at 1/4.

Thanks for all the help and replies; I'm sure I learned some things from the thread. A good evening to all!
 
/ Too Hot? #22  
thermostat ? I don't think mine has a thermostat. Do any of these have a thermostat ? If you are concerned, maybe you could add 1 of those small elec. fans in front of the radiator.. Just a thought
 
/ Too Hot? #23  
is the block clean? Unless Fredricks specifically back-flushed it, it could very easily be plugged.
 
/ Too Hot? #24  
Bobby is misinformed. Your tractor is running hot, (IMHO). I have never seen a gauge erroneously register hot but otherwise appear to be working.
 
/ Too Hot? #25  
thermostat ? I don't think mine has a thermostat. Do any of these have a thermostat ? If you are concerned, maybe you could add 1 of those small elec. fans in front of the radiator.. Just a thought

Some Yanmars do, some don't. It's a good bet that if Hoye does not show one it does not.
 
/ Too Hot? #26  
I can totally see that. I had thought that as an option. There idiot gauges and can be out of calibration. That's why you would need a really good gauge on multiple tractors to see if they indeed run at similar temps. And then there still would be varations for all types of things from ambient temp to condition of cooling system as well as individual radiators. That's why operating temps are given in a range.
 
/ Too Hot?
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Bobby is misinformed. Your tractor is running hot, (IMHO). I have never seen a gauge erroneously register hot but otherwise appear to be working.

So many tractor owners have said that here that it really makes me wonder. Of course, the gauge isn't reading hot; its only just past the middle mark and the outside of the block never registers above 160. The needle is still a long way from the red mark on the gauge. I wonder if reaching the red mark on this gauge would correspond with the light coming on with a system with no needle?

I think I oughta hook up a real temp gauge with numbers on it. Can anyone who has added one of these post some pics, tell me what you bought and where you got it? Thanks!
 
/ Too Hot?
  • Thread Starter
#28  
is the block clean? Unless Fredricks specifically back-flushed it, it could very easily be plugged.

Block is clean and outside was painted. Installed new sleeves, bearings, pistons, rings and head. (I wonder if the head is used?) Also radiator, water pump, and thermostat are new. All of the things that would normally make a tractor run hot are nearly new. I don't see anything on the form saying they back-flushed the block, but they told me they steam cleaned it. Wouldn't that have taken care of any issues?
 
/ Too Hot? #30  
A mechanical water temp gauge is very easy to check. I always take any new ones and put the probe in a pan of water alongside a digital thermometer. As the temps rise, just compare the two as the process continues.
I've only had one that I took back, after the gauge hit 160 degrees, it sort of stuck and hung until the water reached boiling.
 
/ Too Hot? #31  
Block is clean and outside was painted. Installed new sleeves, bearings, pistons, rings and head. (I wonder if the head is used?) Also radiator, water pump, and thermostat are new. All of the things that would normally make a tractor run hot are nearly new. I don't see anything on the form saying they back-flushed the block, but they told me they steam cleaned it. Wouldn't that have taken care of any issues?

The only way to know for sure would be to back-flush it. I have owned about 10 vehicles, now a Pontiac and Chevy van, and a YM2000B, with temp gauges and ALL, when working properly, ran well below the 1/2 mark on the gauge under all conditions. If mine were running at or above the 1/2 mark I would check everything, trusting nothing.
 
/ Too Hot?
  • Thread Starter
#33  
When I tested the radiator and hoses they were never near 180; I don't think it was over 160. If I put a sensor in the coolant, I don't think I'm gonna see a problem. My concern was the hot places on the head close to the manifold, and of course the only reason I ever even checked that is because of the temp gauge.
 
/ Too Hot? #34  
FWIW here are some observations I made with an infrared remote thermometer long ago on my YM240:

right after mowing:

140 degrees on the bottom of the oil pan, 165 at the lower block, and 195 near the injectors, at the upper radiator hose fitting, and at the radiator upper tank. The radiator lower tank was below 100.

This rig has never overheated. Well, at least after I soon learned to keep the radiator screen hosed out.
 
/ Too Hot? #35  
Coosa I did the same thing as Scotty did with his thermostat, but I don't have any pictures of it at the moment. All I have is the gauge I installed that I posted earlier. Either way I did mine just as Scotty did his and it works great.
 
/ Too Hot? #36  
I have noticed that since I have installed ballast turf tires with rim guard on my 2210d that the light work load operating temp usually hangs around 160 degrees. So I suspect that more than light normal use it will run a little hotter probably near the 180-200 degree mark. Which should still be ok. Any new info on your tractor Coosa?
 
/ Too Hot?
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I have noticed that since I have installed ballast turf tires with rim guard on my 2210d that the light work load operating temp usually hangs around 160 degrees. So I suspect that more than light normal use it will run a little hotter probably near the 180-200 degree mark. Which should still be ok. Any new info on your tractor Coosa?

Sorry for not answering sooner; I hadn't checked the board for a few days. I've used the tractor several hours moving dirt with a scrape blade, but it wasn't hard work and it never got past the mid point on the gauge. It seems like several hours of bush hogging is the only way to get it really hot, and I'm really thinking the tractor is acting normal.

I've spent a lot of time on my JD5075 lately and have taken a lot of readings on it with the laser thermometer. I found it gives me readings very close to the same as the Yanmar after several hours of hard work. I still wanta install a real gauge on the Yanmar, but that may turn out to be a winter job. Just got too much going on now.

Thanks again for all the help.
 

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