Tractor was running ok, but weaker than normal pulling a disc I've always used. Had a mechanic that I'd used before recommend replacing the points and condenser. Prior to removing the points, I measured the dwell (points gap) when it was on top of a hub. It was 0.017", so when I installed the new points, I set them to that again. Put the top contactor (not sure what this is properly called) on and then the distributor cap, and now it won't start. Thoughts or ideas on how to proceed? I'm pretty novice at this, so please kindly explain in detail. Thanks in advance
TO30 Points/Condenser
- Thread starter RyanY
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Roadworthy
Elite Member
Check that your new points aren't shorted to ground. I used to experience that from time to time when changing them. Rotate the engine to ensure they open and close while watching them. You can even use a test light on that side of the coil and watch it go off and on as you rotate the engine. It's only twelve volts on that part of the coil. Do you get a spark? Replacing the condenser is not a guarantee it's good. Its purpose is to help prevent the points from pitting - it slows the process. If it's internally shorted the points can't cause a spark.
RayIN
Platinum Member
I've experienced that with new Chinese points too; the pivot post insulation is conductive. Trouble is, all points are made in China today, just different names.
That condition cannot be corrected, new replacement is the only option.
Ryan, it's name is rotor cap; those from China can also be defective, testing is required.
Sir I think I would call the dealer and verify the setting of the contact points. And like
Jerry/MT
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IIRC the points setting is 0.022. Make sure that your distributor shaft bushing is not worn. Did you mess with the timing? have you got the firing order correct; 1-3-4-2
Thank you for all of the replies. I did check for spark by turning it over, and had spark. I'm assuming my points aren't going to ground if I see spark when the points gap open. The old points setting was 0.017", so I got close to setting back to that. Thank you, yes the rotor cap was replaced. Distributor shaft appears pretty smooth without a lot of wear. I don't think I messed with the timing, but how would I know that? All I did is replace the points and condenser. How would you go about checking the timing?
RayIN
Platinum Member
Point gap affects timing, set to OEM specs, then the only thing that affects timing is distributor shaft wear or loose distributor retaining bolt.
ultrarunner
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Modern points often inferior and I have found will experience accelerated wear which closes the gap.
I use a old time tool that burnishes the point block to slightly take off the high spots.
New points set at the wide gap range will provide a longer service interval.
I use a old time tool that burnishes the point block to slightly take off the high spots.
New points set at the wide gap range will provide a longer service interval.
dodge man
Super Star Member
Your old points were wearing down, no guarantee that point gap was correct.
