Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
I think you're finally catching on here. That fuse had no business being there from the start. Whoever put it there didn't know what he was doing.
Clean wire from teminal C on the ignition switch direct to the S terminal on the solenoid.Is there a reason to think that this particular starter solenoid would draw less than 25A? i.e. Have you measured the draw? A a rule, at least in my experience, starter solenoids aren't particularly frugal devices.
All the best,
Peter
I made mention to test the old solenoid type start for load. Best to replace it with the modern OSGR starter, they draw less power and crank over better.Clean wire from teminal C on the ignition switch direct to the S terminal on the solenoid.
Turn key: fuse blows.
Found a 40AMP slow blow MAXI fuse & connected that in place of the fuse.
Turn key: fuse blows
I dug out an old ammeter from a box in the garage where it has sat for about 40 years Connected it in place of the fuse. Pulled out stop cable. Turned key - starter turned over normally, ammeter showed 40+amps dropping to 30ish amps while starter turning normally! I'm flabbergasted! There's perhaps a current spike for the pull-in coil to be expected momentarily (thats "FOR a moment" in English rather than "IN a moment" in American!) but 30Amps continuous for a little hold-in coil is ridiculous. There's clearly a starter solenoid fault going on here.
I want to use the tractor today to clear some garden rubbish for the missus & transport it to the firepile (I have a transit box (carry-all in US I believe) which will be just the job for this little beaut.
I'll refit the push button for now & start looking for the right solenoid to order.
Ah! I thought the cable connectors looked "factory" to me & I've now found that , although not shown on the wiring diagram, there IS a "fusible link" factory fitted in there.I think you're finally catching on here. That fuse had no business being there from the start. Whoever put it there didn't know what he was doing.