Flail Mower Titan Flail mower

[ericm979]

Thanks for the foto Fallon. I think I'll try my QH top link bracket to see if that improves performance on uneven ground.

BTW, I'm jealous of your hydraulic top link. I wish I knew what I need to install one on my M-F...open center, power beyond, closed center, spool valves...those sound like medical terms to me...I've got a cylinder but so far, no luck getting any action. Nobody seems to know much about the hydraulics on the 231S tractors from M-F.

99.9% chance you have an open center system. Only some Deere CUTS had closed center. Closed center costs the manufacturer more to build. Look at your loader valve for letters next to the ports and report back. Most likely there's 7 ports- 4 for the loader cylinders, one from the pump, one to the tank (transmission housing), and one to the 3pt (back of the transmission). The last one is the power beyond and that's where you add your valves.

 

[Fallon]

99.9% chance you have an open center system. Only some Deere CUTS had closed center. Closed center costs the manufacturer more to build. Look at your loader valve for letters next to the ports and report back. Most likely there's 7 ports- 4 for the loader cylinders, one from the pump, one to the tank (transmission housing), and one to the 3pt (back of the transmission). The last one is the power beyond and that's where you add your valves.

I was a out to say the same thing. CUTs & SCUTs are open center. There should be a power beyond port going out of the loader valve off to the 3pt.

Open center is just a big loop. The pump goes to a relief valve, then loops through every valve. Then back to the tank in a big open loop. Fluid is always flowing at full (for engine RPM at least) flow through that loop. When you actuate a valve it diverts flow from that loop to the cylinder or motor. Only the upstream valve will get flow if you actuate multiple valves.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/295816-kubota-l3200-tnt-3rd-function.html is my install on my former L3200. The manifold I tapped into for power beyond & tank lines will be different, as will mounting stuff obviously. But the basics will be the same on your MF. I found it a great learning experience, although not cheap or quick.

 

[Guidshir]

Troverman, Thanks for the confirmation. You're right that the top link isn't critical, but it still ends up being a little bit of a pain. I'll post some pics when I get it welded.

 

[anavidi]

I used my 60" Titan flail today. I think this is the 6th usage of it, maybe 7th. I mowed about 6 acres and noticed that the base of the top/middle 3-point connection was broken off on both sides.
The design is what looks like 1/8" steel bolted. Each side is it's own piece and I had to assemble when I bought this last year. The two sides bolt to the mower and to a top piece where the top 3-pt tractor connector attaches.

I didn't even know when it broke until I looked back and saw it. The mower works otherwise, so I will probably find someone to weld these back and strengthen it. But still, it's pretty bad that it broke like this.

If your mower is <1yr old you can probably get replacement parts shipped to you under warranty at no cost. I have contacted Titan on a few occasions and their customer service is extremely helpful and responsive.

 

[hawk10]

You guys are making me really worry about my recent purchase, I wish I would have seen this sooner! I purchased this less than a month ago and I have used it several times on my very steep and rocky property. I have hit a few big hidden rocks and cleared brush that was for sure pushing the 3" diameter mark, I have not damaged anything yet (that I know of) aside from a few chipped knives, but it looks like I need to be careful. On the hills that I am working on, I have accidentally jammed the mower into the ground on the downhill side a few times as the tractor started up another hill or off angle, the housing does not seem bent. Mostly when this happens it is the piece of metal that holds on the rear roller that digs in. I do think that Titan has changed their design somewhat because mine was delivered with the grease fittings for the rear roller on the outside of the housing, on the sides of the mower.

I may add a few pieces of 2x2x1/4 angle across the housing just in case to try to keep it from bending, but what are you guys doing about the 3-point top link supports breaking? Does anyone have pictures that they could share?

 

[leonz]

Hello Hawn10,

Just drive slowly for now and plan on having a complete weldment made by a fabrication shop or if you own a smoke wrench, grinder, welder etc. purchase some thick flat stock as wide as the mounting arms of the existing three point hitch on the mower at the end of the season to
replace the weaker steel.

The issue of reinforcing the rear of the mower will need to be addressed with a different method wherein you will end up using square stock with flat stock welded to it on all four sides of the square tube to create strength in the weldment.

The flat stock will create a tab on both ends and you will need to bolt it to the side weldments placing the tube weldment near the bottom of the flail mower shroud but not near the bend at the bottom of the flail mower shroud MAKING SURE that the bolt heads do not interfere with the flail mower knives orbit.

Cutting the flat stock weldments and drilling the mounting holes in the end weldment and the strap iron that crosses the flail mower shroud should be done before you weld them to the square tube stock and by doing so you can use vice grips to hold the weldment in place making sure it is level while you drill the first hole in the side weldment of the flail mower.

Doing all the welding off the flail mower prevents any chance that the flail mower rotor bearings become damaged by the amperage
of the welder when doing the work.

The other thing is that using a fine threaded bolt and nut with flat and lock washers should be a priority and using red Loctite to secure the cross brace weldment to the mowers side weldments and the flail mower shroud.

If you can rent a mag drill the drilling will be easier and you will have good holes that do not wander on the flat stock and you can mount the mag drill on the cross piece while its on the flail mower to drill through the flat stock and the flail mower shroud in one movement.

I would recommend that you use fluid film and the dewalt twin point drill bits sized for 3/8" bolts be sure to buy several of them so you have them on hand.

Of course if you do not have metal working tools the fab shop will be able to do this very quickly for you and all you would need to do is rent a mag drill.

 

[hawk10]

Hello Hawn10,

Just drive slowly for now and plan on having a complete weldment made by a fabrication shop or if you own a smoke wrench, grinder, welder etc. purchase some thick flat stock as wide as the mounting arms of the existing three point hitch on the mower at the end of the season to
replace the weaker steel.

The issue of reinforcing the rear of the mower will need to be addressed with a different method wherein you will end up using square stock with flat stock welded to it on all four sides of the square tube to create strength in the weldment.

The flat stock will create a tab on both ends and you will need to bolt it to the side weldments placing the tube weldment near the bottom of the flail mower shroud but not near the bend at the bottom of the flail mower shroud MAKING SURE that the bolt heads do not interfere with the flail mower knives orbit.

Cutting the flat stock weldments and drilling the mounting holes in the end weldment and the strap iron that crosses the flail mower shroud should be done before you weld them to the square tube stock and by doing so you can use vice grips to hold the weldment in place making sure it is level while you drill the first hole in the side weldment of the flail mower.

Doing all the welding off the flail mower prevents any chance that the flail mower rotor bearings become damaged by the amperage
of the welder when doing the work.

The other thing is that using a fine threaded bolt and nut with flat and lock washers should be a priority and using red Loctite to secure the cross brace weldment to the mowers side weldments and the flail mower shroud.

If you can rent a mag drill the drilling will be easier and you will have good holes that do not wander on the flat stock and you can mount the mag drill on the cross piece while its on the flail mower to drill through the flat stock and the flail mower shroud in one movement.

I would recommend that you use fluid film and the dewalt twin point drill bits sized for 3/8" bolts be sure to buy several of them so you have them on hand.

Of course if you do not have metal working tools the fab shop will be able to do this very quickly for you and all you would need to do is rent a mag drill.

Going slow is not a problem, I have to work around so many trees and hills that I would for sure tear something up if I moved too fast! That sounds like a good way to reinforce the back, I have all of the tools I need, and I have access to a mag drill as well. I never thought about putting a weldment on the inside in the back, I will have to check for clearance on that when I get home, but I think that there is room. I also just happen to have some flat bar and some DOM tubing laying around that I could use.

 

[thekkfan]

I used my 60" Titan flail today. I think this is the 6th usage of it, maybe 7th. I mowed about 6 acres and noticed that the base of the top/middle 3-point connection was broken off on both sides.
The design is what looks like 1/8" steel bolted. Each side is it's own piece and I had to assemble when I bought this last year. The two sides bolt to the mower and to a top piece where the top 3-pt tractor connector attaches.

I didn't even know when it broke until I looked back and saw it. The mower works otherwise, so I will probably find someone to weld these back and strengthen it. But still, it's pretty bad that it broke like this.

Guidshir,

How come you have both side supports bolted to the outside mount flanges? I believe you should have only had one support mounted to an outside flange depending on which offset position you chose upon assembly?

 

[hawk10]

Guidshir,

How come you have both side supports bolted to the outside mount flanges? I believe you should have only had one support mounted to an outside flange depending on which offset position you chose upon assembly?

thekkfan, I had to do the same thing on my mower, I am not sure if he had the same problem as I did but on mine the formed angles on the brackets did not allow me to get the bolts in for any other position even thought the manual shows it as you are suggesting.

 

[thekkfan]

thekkfan, I had to do the same thing on my mower, I am not sure if he had the same problem as I did but on mine the formed angles on the brackets did not allow me to get the bolts in for any other position even thought the manual shows it as you are suggesting.

This is from the titan site. I only say this because my BETSTCO had the same assembly and I had no trouble assembling the way I described. I wondered if that issue stressed the folds, especially if there was any side to side movement (ie. smacked side of a tree, etc).