Tire loading - required or luxury?

[Jay4200]

I've never had liquid in my tires on my L4200, and never needed it, since I always carried a 1500 pound backhoe behind my tractor. I've since taken off the backhoe and began running 3pt blades and rakes, and find the tractor is REALLY different, and all for the worse. I get traction loss and tire spin constantly. My split brakes are now virtually useless, especially while back-dragging with my FEL, as the lack of traction allows the free wheel to just spin a little faster. I've generated a few really interesting balancing acts while using my loader, but that's almost expected. OTOH, 4WD is absolutely required for loader work, since the rears spin as soon as my bucket starts to dig into a pile.

I don't want to load my tires for various reasons, but I am worried about pushing a 600 pound snowblower up my driveway this winter - although I plan to chain all 4 wheels. Will a set of chains all the way around do the job with unloaded tires?

JayC

 

[beenthere]

Sounds like you just need more weight on the rear.
Can get it by wheel weights, tire fluid, or ballast of some sort on the 3 ph.

Or a combination of all three.

 

[Don87]

Sounds like you just need more weight on the rear.
Can get it by wheel weights, tire fluid, or ballast of some sort on the 3 ph.

Or a combination of all three.

Ditto:thumbsup:

 

[Don87]

I've never had liquid in my tires on my L4200, and never needed it, since I always carried a 1500 pound backhoe behind my tractor. I've since taken off the backhoe and began running 3pt blades and rakes, and find the tractor is REALLY different, and all for the worse. I get traction loss and tire spin constantly. My split brakes are now virtually useless, especially while back-dragging with my FEL, as the lack of traction allows the free wheel to just spin a little faster. I've generated a few really interesting balancing acts while using my loader, but that's almost expected. OTOH, 4WD is absolutely required for loader work, since the rears spin as soon as my bucket starts to dig into a pile.

I don't want to load my tires for various reasons, but I am worried about pushing a 600 pound snowblower up my driveway this winter - although I plan to chain all 4 wheels. Will a set of chains all the way around do the job with unloaded tires?

JayC

To elaborate further............. you need to make up 1500 pounds or so.
In your case, I would go with wheel weights instead of loaded tires, just because of the backhoe.(take the weights off when hoe is on)

 

[kennyd]

Buy or make a ballast box and fill it with Portland cement.

 

[Don87]

Buy or make a ballast box and fill it with Portland cement.

I could be wrong, but I took for granted that he will probably be using a 'rear mount blower'. Ballast box won't work with that.

 

[RoyJackson]

I don't want to load my tires for various reasons, but I am worried about pushing a 600 pound snowblower up my driveway this winter - although I plan to chain all 4 wheels. Will a set of chains all the way around do the job with unloaded tires?
JayC

In your circumstances, since you don't want to fill the tires, chains would probably be your best bet for the snow clearing. I'm not a proponent of chains on all 4 tires, but if you're pushing uphill when clearing that snow, you might want to consider that.

For all other tasks, go with Kenny's suggestion of the ballast box. Can't beat a ballast box for adding traction.

 

[Code54]

I agree with the others, but filling the tires is not a bad thing. I have mine filled and never have had a problem or regret. You wont notice they are there and they will hurt anything even when the hoe is on.
Good luck

 

[kennyd]

I could be wrong, but I took for granted that he will probably be using a 'rear mount blower'. Ballast box won't work with that.

I assumed, that since he was trying to replace the missing weight from the backhoe that it was a front mount blower. From the first post:

since I always carried a 1500 pound backhoe behind my tractor...

 

[Don87]

I assumed, that since he was trying to replace the missing weight from the backhoe that it was a front mount blower. From the first post:

One thing for sure.........his question is answered either way.:thumbsup:

 

[pat32rf]

You gotta get some more weight on those rear wheels, either ballast box, loaded tires, or heavy snow blower. Without the weight even chains spin on ice....
I like loaded tires but my tires are small (JD4300) so I carry rear ballast as well. The ballast gets replaced with hoe, blower, backblade as needed but the 3pth is never empty..

 

[Gary Fowler]

What is your reason for not wanting to ballast your tires. That is practically free weight just pay for the WWW fluid and you wont have to worry about water freezing in the tires and at least 3/4 (75% fill)t of the weight is not carried on the axle but on the tire itself. You can do this work yourself also to minimize the cost if that is an issue.

 

[k0ua]

I have loaded tires, and I am very happy with the performance gains. But if you are worried about it for some reason, why don't you load the tires with water for a little while and try it then you can drain it before it gets too cold and you are not out any real money, just the fill valve about 10 bucks and maybe a pump $6 at home depot.. actually I guess you would not need the pump for water as you would have water pressure, maybe a simple hose valve at the filler location for ease of use, when you burp the tires. In any case this would be a good way to check it out before you spent money for WW fluid, or RV antifreeze or RimGuard or whatever. Just a thought. Me I run RV antifreeze, and a 750 lb. ballast "barrel" on the 3pt. for my L3400, it is about right, tire spin is very rare.
and havent lifted the rear end again since the filling of the tires.
James K0UA

 

[Pushing_Tin]

Mine are filled with beet juice and I've been very pleased.

 

[foggy1111]

A few reasons he may not want to load his tires....(1) when he puts the bh on the tractor and hauls it on a trailer and (2) the extra weight tears up peoples yards and makes deep(er) ruts....when drivng across them with the hoe and tractor.

I rest his case.

 

[Jay4200]

Buy or make a ballast box and fill it with Portland cement.

No good - I take the BH off to run a blade, rake, or snowblower - all of which use up the 3pt hitch.

JayC

 

[Jay4200]

What is your reason for not wanting to ballast your tires. That is practically free weight just pay for the WWW fluid and you wont have to worry about water freezing in the tires and at least 3/4 (75% fill)t of the weight is not carried on the axle but on the tire itself. You can do this work yourself also to minimize the cost if that is an issue.

I can't handle any more weight for transportation when the backhoe is attached. Wheel weights might work.

Also, I realized yesterday that I hadn't reduced my tire pressure after removing the backhoe - my rear contact patch is reduced easily by 50%. That explains a lot.

JayC

 

[Ford tractor]

I assume the tractor in question is the one in your picture? With turf tires? If so, chains work very well on turf tires. Better in fact than on R4 tires. Get the 2 link version or an H-bar version if you will be operating on a side slope. Straight link chains will allow you to side slip on hills and that's not so enjoyable. You will have to be real good about staying off black top. I've put many a chain imprint in it. Pretty easy to do on 3-5 year old pavement (even in winter) or when the sun is hitting it making it softer. If you are going to be working at snow removal, you may want to have in the contract a loop hole so you don't get charged for damage to the pavement. Just a thought.

If you can get wheel weights that would help in conjunction with the chains. Tractors in nearly all cases work better at or near maximum weight for ground engaging activities. But if you are truck or trailer limited on what you can haul, then that's going to limit your options.

 

[Jay4200]

I assume the tractor in question is the one in your picture? With turf tires? If so, chains work very well on turf tires. Better in fact than on R4 tires. Get the 2 link version or an H-bar version if you will be operating on a side slope. Straight link chains will allow you to side slip on hills and that's not so enjoyable. You will have to be real good about staying off black top. I've put many a chain imprint in it. Pretty easy to do on 3-5 year old pavement (even in winter) or when the sun is hitting it making it softer. If you are going to be working at snow removal, you may want to have in the contract a loop hole so you don't get charged for damage to the pavement. Just a thought.

If you can get wheel weights that would help in conjunction with the chains. Tractors in nearly all cases work better at or near maximum weight for ground engaging activities. But if you are truck or trailer limited on what you can haul, then that's going to limit your options.

Yes, that is my tractor in the picture, and I am planning on putting 2-link ladder chains all the way around. I will be doing snow removal on my own driveway, and possibly my road, but all just my own stuff. There is no asphalt in sight - everything is gravel. I don't think I'll need to worry about side-slipping, the only sidehill is the crown in my driveway, which I hope won't dump me into the woods. I did pretty well with my 2WD lawn tractor w/ 2-link ladder chains last year, but it wasn't pushing a 600# blower....

JayC