Grading Tilling using box blade rippers

[hz293]

The other day when I asked about using a tooth bar on my B7510HSD FEL to till with, overwhemingly everyone answering the thread said no. Someone mentioned using the rippers on a box blade to till. Just after that, a friend gave me a 5ft box blade he doesn't use anymore. Can I get some info on the best way to do it from others who have used rippers on a box blade?

 

[tracecom]

I am no expert, but I have just spent several hours using my box blade. Some results were good, but some were bad.

To get maximum penetration of the scarifiers, you will need to lower them to their lowest position and then shorten the top link so that the box blade is tilted forward, thus allowing the scarifiers to hit the ground well before the rest of the box. Then, you can drag the blade along the ground and the scarifiers will cut into the earth. However, they are not really close enough together to do a good job tilling, nor will they penetrate more than four inches or so. I suppose if you make multiple passes, it might work, but not very well in my opinion.

In addition, it is possible (don't ask me how I know) to bend the scarifiers if they hit a root, especially in a turn.

Good luck.

 

[browns40]

Hi hz,

You can squeeze more scarifying depth out of your box blade if you make sure the lower links on the 3 pt arms are screwed down as far as they can go without being "threadbare".

And like trace said, shorten the toplink as short as you can to get the most aggressive digging & scarifier penetration.

Sure won't work like a tiller, but will definitely open up the ground for you.

 

[RonR]

I have not had much luck with my box blade to level dirt. I have had some success in pulling dirt from one place to another. I am real nervous that backing with it might bend the 3PH arms.

I have used my scarifiers to loosen the soil prior to tilling. Multiple passes at offsets to the original pass, then cross angled, would give you the best results.

My BB is GREAT as real ballast for FEL work, and that's where it gets used most.

Ron

 

[KeithInSpace]

I don't know if I am just dumb or lucky, but I use my 4' BB for EVERYTHING, including a great place to hook my 50 ton strap when I'm pulling out a stump. Loop the ends around the outer scarifiers, get a couple-foot running start, and in 20 or so tugs, I can get some big trees out of the ground. I've followed that procedure for 15 or so stumps cut 4' off the ground (some were real bears) with no ill affect on tractor, links, or box.

I agree with Tracecom's approach on using the thing as a tiller. Not a real great replacement, but if you are patient, go over the plot in question many times and at many different angles, and work the dirt around with the FEL, I've been able to bust up 15' x 40' plots of red clay and amend with good soil to about 12" deep in a half-hour or so.

I've seen some things about breaking chain links and now this about bending scarifiers...I don't know. Not that I make a habit of abusing the equipment I love most, but I have certainly "used" it and I have had no breakages or fear of breakages in 53.2 hours over the past 5 months of proud ownership.

But I will say that I don't turn with the box down.

 

[HomeBrew2]

One thing to keep in mind: Some BB's come with shanks that only have 3 adjustment points, holes in the shank, or grooves on the front edge of the shank. There are shanks available that have 4 holes/grooves that are obviously longer and provide greater depth of cut ... about 2" more. I replaced my 3 hole shanks with 4 hole shanks from AgriSupply.

 

[3RRL]

Tilt the boxblade forwad by shortening the top link. Use the position control (if you have) to limit depth of cut so the box does not start to carry the ripped up earth forward. Otherwise it will fill up and "rise" upward as you till. Yet try to get maximum depth even if it takes several passes. Like my bro Homebrew says, Agri-Supply carries longer scrarifiers if you need to go deeper than it can till now.

One thing to keep in mind is to put weight on the boxblade to get penetration. Your tractor does not exert downward pressure. Another way to get penetration is to remove all but 2 or 3 shanks so they sink in better and is easier for your tractor to pull. You'll probably need to make several passes anyway...and it's fun tractor time.

After that, raise them up so they only stick out about 1" and level the boxblade. Then run over the "tilled" earth moving, crushing and mixing some of the "clods" into your field. You should be able to make it kinda level and smooth to your liking.

Hope that helps.

 

[cisco]

As per prior posts, you'll need to set up the box blade angle correctly, and make a zillion passes over the patch of soil you intend to cultivate, but it'll eventually work. That said, there's no way you're going to get the depth of soil disruption that a large tiller will accomplish. Me, I've no tiller, and am resigned to renting a walk behind unit each year prior to planting my modest garden plot. I've not done that yet, as I still need to fence the area, or whatever planted will become deer feed. Anyhow, in the area I intend to garden, I first used a subsoiler to get things broken up 12" plus deep, then ran over the area with the box blade scarifiers. Thereafter I dumped 2 loads of topsoil on the cut up surface, and ran a middle buster (on same shant as subsoiler) through it to mix up everything.
So, in a couple of years when I actually start a garden, and rent the largest walk behind tiller I can find, things should be pretty well ready to go.

 

[gordon21]

Hanging 2-3 suitcase weights on both sides will help a lot. They are very compact, easy to handle and can merely be dropped on the sides as needed without tools or hardware. Remove when done. When you need to dig deeper on one side (such as a roadside ditch), put all of them on one side and adjust the 3PT arms to get about 20 degrees of tilt.

The rippers from Agri-supply are very inexpensive. Their prices and service are good. www.agri-supply.com

 

[oakachoyg]

I'm using Rippers to cultervate my garden. Took old rippers and installed them from the top side ,then added 18 in rippers to rippers installed from the top and just bolted them togather.Gave about another 10 in.Also adjusted the top link as short as it would adj,which tillted the back of box blade up and added more clearence.Hope this helps.

 

[jeff9366]

I have had some success in pulling dirt from one place to another. I am real nervous that backing with it might bend the 3PH arms.

There are numerous posts on T-B-N from others cautioning against over-stressing lower link arms in reverse. After all, lower links are designed to pull, not push. I have replaced Kubota CHECK CHAINS/TURNBUCKLES with rigid stabilizers from Stabilworks, which reinforce the lower links in reverse as well simplifying mounting of implements to the 3-Pt. hitch.

I am still cautious, but I now regularly push LOOSE dirt with the box blade. See photo. LOOSE DIRT!

LINK:

Kubota tractor stabilizers Kubota [url]www.stabilworks.com - YouTube[/url]

Kubota B3300SU / 33-hp / 1,900 pounds / 4-WD​

 

[jeff9366]

If you need more penetration do not hesitate to remove one or two rippers, concentrating implement weight on reduced number of rippers. On my 'Bush Hog' Rollover Box Blade rippers drop off after removing one 3/4" nut/bolt/washer per ripper.

In photo I was ripping very tough Bahia pasture grass prior to raking Bahia, then seeding and rolling wildflowers.

Three rippers in use, two removed. Box blade weight = 630 pounds.

 

[workinallthetime]

-tried the box blade method last year, way way to much seat time. found a used disc for 350, paid 320, added some weight to it and the garden looks great.
-my lower link arms are are fine but whatever you call those adjustment arms are bent to heck, from pushing the box blade. Mine adjust with pin holes not tunbuckels
-crazy old thread i was thread, i was excited "home brew" was back, that cat seemed to be the "grand po ba" on little bota's and fabing up implements for them. To bad he was banned for speaking out