Tiller Tiller Setup

theboman · Mar 21, 2002

Got my tiller. It's all hooked up minus the PTO shaft, it looks way cool on my 'Bota. Now, how deep should you set it up for? The book is kinda more towards not killing yourself and showing you where all the parts/adjustments/etc are located.

Bird · Mar 22, 2002

how deep should you set it up for

Bo, I guess it might depend on what you're using it for. I can see running it shallow to just loosen the surface if you're wanting to spread or level an area, or if you have a very thin layer of topsoil and something under it that you don't want disturbed or mixed in, but for me . . . I just leave mine set for maximum depth.

2thdoc · Mar 22, 2002

Hi Bo, I'm no tiller expert, but I do play one on tv /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. Last summer when I first got my tiller I set it so it would only till a couple of inches deep on the first pass. This was on a field that had not been broke in several years and was grown up in weeds and had only been bush hogged. Second pass was full depth. I have tilled with the tiller set at maximum depth on the first pass, just had to go slower; my 25hp Jinma could handle it, but I think it was mighty hard on the clutch. This tilling was done with a 58" tiller, by the way. Just get out there and experiment with different settings and different tractor speeds. Tractor size, tractor speed, tiller size, soil type, soil condition, whether soil has been recently worked, are all factors that have to be taken into consideration. One thing to keep in mind though, is it ain't rocket science, just get out there and play with your tiller; it won't take you long to figure it out. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

DFB · Mar 22, 2002

Boman,

I have my JD4100 hooked up with a Bushhog RTS 50" tiller. I also use the tiller set for its max. depth of 4".
Runs thru the garden just fine... but that's also in previously broken up soil.

When tilling up unbroken hard packed ground I use several shallow passes to achieve the required depth. The BushHog operator's manual also recommends that technique. I find it somewhat easier on the tiller too.
Doesn't bounce around so much.

DFB

WVBill · Mar 22, 2002

Bo:

I use a 38" Kubota tiller on my B6100DT. I let my bones be my guide. If the ground is hard I set the depth control of the tiller to where it "feels" like the tiller/tractor is not shaking itself apart or about to break the tiller tines. Make a pass or two like that and then increase the depth.

theboman · Mar 22, 2002

I love you all!

EdKing · Mar 22, 2002

While I've never operated a 3ph tiller, I do have considerable experence on walk behind tillers. If the ground had been worked previously, I'll set to full depth. If the ground is unworked, I will do anywhere from 3 to 5 passes, gradually deepening the setting on each pass, depending on the soil (how hard packed it is, how rocky, claylike or sandy, etc.). I plan on getting a 3ph tiller in the future, but I have other implements which I have a higher priority on first. Maybe some day I'll be rich and will be able to afford all the toys I want.

Ed King

theboman · Mar 22, 2002

Afford? Interesting concept.

dummy · Mar 22, 2002

Can't you set it for maximum depth and then use the 3 pt. to bring it up or down??

n6ckv · Mar 22, 2002

First, I use my tiller a lot. Had to replace the tines after 3 years of use. Two hints for new areas:

1. Water the area over night on Tuesday - it will be ready to till on the weekend.

2. If you did not do 1 above, get the box scraper out, lower the scarfer bars, and use it to break up the ground first.

carl

2thdoc · Mar 22, 2002

Bo, I forgot to mention one thing. Be careful when you start tilling, it's so much fun watching that tiller chewing up the ground, that if you don't watch it, you'll till up your whole yard!

theboman · Mar 23, 2002

Tillin' till the cows come home! Well, ain't got no cows but I tilled the land today. Awesome. I set the tiller to the minimum depth and away I go. I was really impressed! My brother stopped by he too thought the job it did was outstanding and asked me to "stir the ground" a bit where the grass don't grow too well and to smooth it out a bit.
I'll let the garden set a few days (more than likely next Saturday) and set the tiller deeper and till again.

I also tilled the spots on the hill where I've got some wildlife mix to sew. It had been a series of bumps (old ore diggings) and I've leveled it out with my 'Bota. Hopefully the deep will stay away from the garden (yeah right).

Oh, I did apply Roundup to the grasses on the land I tilled, but tilled it 4 hours later...maybe it'll work, maybe it won't...I couldn't wait and have lots more roundup.

Bob_Trevithick · Mar 25, 2002

Hi Mike,

...I have tilled with the tiller set at maximum depth on the first pass, just had to go slower; my 25hp Jinma could handle it, but I think it was mighty hard on the clutch.

Are you talking about the tractors clutch, or the slip-clutch on the tiller itself? This is something I hadn't thought of. I have a new tiller sitting in the garage just waiting for a chance to use it.. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif .. so it would be good to know about this clutch issue before I start working it.

Thanks,
Bob

Bob_Trevithick · Mar 25, 2002

...Can't you set it for maximum depth and then use the 3 pt. to bring it up or down?? 

This occured to me too, but wouldn't you normally have the lower links set in the "float" position for a ground-engaging implement? Would this make a difference?

Bob

Bob_Trevithick · Mar 25, 2002

...Can't you set it for maximum depth and then use the 3 pt. to bring it up or down?? 

p.s. It just occured to me that a problem with this approach would be that when the front wheels went up on a small bump, your tiller would suddenly be jammed into the ground.. and as the rear wheels hit the same bump your tiller would be lifted into the air. Probably this is why folks rely on the depth setting of the tiller itself.. so it can follow the ground contour?

Knight9 · Mar 25, 2002

Bob,

I purchased a new tiller last year to prepare a garden plot for us and a number of beds and other planting areas. Since all of the soil I was dealing with was virgin dirt, I wanted to take it easy on the equipment. I set the skid shoes on the tiller to about 3" depth of the tiller made a couple of passes tearing everything up nicely. Then I raised the skid shoes all the way and took it nice and slow for full depth. It did a great job. I probably could have gotten away with setting the skid shoes to maximum height (out of the way) and feathering the 3ph...but really....the tractor and the tiller are worth to much to rush something so simple!!! So what if it takes a few extra passes....just more seat time right? /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Kevin

Bob_Trevithick · Mar 25, 2002

... I probably could have gotten away with setting the skid shoes to maximum height (out of the way) and feathering the 3ph...but really....the tractor and the tiller are worth to much to rush something so simple!!! So what if it takes a few extra passes....just more seat time right? /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

You've convinced me! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

2thdoc · Mar 25, 2002

Bob, I was referring to the tractor's pto clutch. You know how brake shoes smell when they get hot, I was getting that same smell sometimes when I was tilling. I assumed it was due to the clutch disc slipping and getting hot.

Bob_Trevithick · Mar 25, 2002

...I assumed it was due to the clutch disc slipping and getting hot. 

Hmm.. interesting. I would have thought it would just bog down the engine before it would make the clutch slip. But what do I know? Has anyone else run into this sort of problem?

TerryinMD · Mar 25, 2002

Oh, I did apply Roundup to the grasses on the land I tilled, but tilled it 4 hours later...maybe it'll work, maybe it won't...I couldn't wait and have lots more roundup

Booo.... hissss.... should have nixed the roundup!! The tiller turns that good ole grass and other green stuff into valuable compost. I don't think that there will any chemical residue with Roundup, but I would definately let the rains flush that soil for awhile. No telling what it could do to anything you may plant in the next few days.

There are a few differing methodologies to tilling. It all depends on soil conditions, moisture, cover crops, etc. For me, I depend upon the depth feet a lot. They prevent the tiller from digging to deep. I till about 3-4" on the first pass. Stop, raise the feet all the way and let the tiller do its job.

Additionally, I till two times. The first pass is to turn under all green manures and accumulated debris - two tilling heights as previously mentioned. I then wait a week or two and till again - usually at full depth. This turns the green manures again to distribute them some more. After that, it's planting time. Except for the deep furrows for potatoes, leeks, and corn.

Terry