Tiller Killed Tractor

   / Tiller Killed Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#11  
flusher said:
I have a 4-ft Yanmar RS1200 rototiller for my 21-hp Kubota B7510HST. Since the tiller doesn't appear to have a shear pin anywhere, I bought one of those Weasler slip clutches. Here's the info I received on adjusting the clutch:

The clutch has a series of exposed springs around the outside, to adjust the torque setting of the clutch, you need to turn each bolt on the springs the same number of rotations to keep an even pressure all the way around the clutch. Turning the bolts to compress the spring will increase the torque setting, and turning to expand the springs will decrease the torque setting. The clutch is shipped from us preset at 8,000 in-lbs setting. If you turn the springs down to the point they are fully compressed, then the clutch will not slip giving you no protection.

Looks like your slip clutch is a little tight. I'd check the spring compression closely and then consult the manufacturer about adjusting it, assuming the instructions that came with the tiller are not adequate. CCM probably is the place to start.

Ray,

Thanks for the info. When I bought the tiller I assumed that it was pre-set at the factory. Shame on me, I should have checked it. The next time I have a job for the tiller I am going to adjust the bolts like you mentioned.
 
   / Tiller Killed Tractor #12  
Hi Gene, I have put blue loctite on pretty much all of the bolts on my KK tiller. The side bolts that capture a rubber gasket on the gear cover were always coming loose. Since using the loctite the bolts are staying tight. When you come over you will see the rocks we have gathered so far. Funny thing when I look at the stone pile I don't remember bending over and picking up that many......:)

I noticed on my slip clutch that if I get into something that gradually gets bound up (like old landscape cloth) it will kill the tractor before slipping. But when hitting stones it will slip.
 
   / Tiller Killed Tractor #13  
Nothing a little heat from an Acetylene torch and a big hammer can't cure. Once you get the shoe back in place be sure to loosen up the slip clutch and let it slip some than readjust it properly.

Glad there was no serious damage to your equipment.
 
   / Tiller Killed Tractor #14  
Thanks for the heads up. I am about to start using my new tiller on my yard .... more rock than dirt.

The tiller has a shear bolt but I'm thinking about adding a slip clutch too.

Glad to hear yours was ok.
Rick
 
   / Tiller Killed Tractor #15  
I also bought a KK tiller recently and could tell by looking at the slip clutch adjustment bolts that it was way too tight. I thought it would be adjusted from the factory but they just had them run down tight. I figure they do that so they won't get lost in shipment?

John
 
   / Tiller Killed Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I was looking under the tiller today at the tines and found that about half of the tines were very loose. The bolts holding them on had nylon inserts but they still worked loose. So I spent 20 minutes tightening all of them up again and I will add that to the things that I check from now on. Another lesson learned.
 
   / Tiller Killed Tractor #17  
GeneD14 said:
Ray,

Thanks for the info. When I bought the tiller I assumed that it was pre-set at the factory. Shame on me, I should have checked it. The next time I have a job for the tiller I am going to adjust the bolts like you mentioned.


GeneD14,

Shame on you for not checking it once? Not at all! It's Double Shame on you for not checking it EVERY TIME you use it, especially if it's been more than a week or two since the last check.

Slip clutchs are not do it once and forget about it like head bolts! They are more like grease fittings that need attention regularly. They are the only thing protecting your driveline from bad expensive noises happening deep within the tractor. The slip clutch WILL freeze up due to surface rust much more quickly than you can imagine. I've had it happen in less than a week before and that is with it stored in a shed. You just don't know unless you check.

You would really feel silly if the engine had kept running and the differential housing had broken! It happens - regularly.

Oh, I agree that the mfg should have used loctite blue 242 on the nuts and bolts!

jb
 

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