Third Functions Hydraulic Fittings Difficult to Engage

[Woodsman603]

Heyas.

Got an L3710 with a plow setup. Used Everything Attachment's third function kit. Works great, minus one caveat. The fittings by the plow side are incredibly hard to engage. I pull back the collar and insert the male into the female, and I have to use all my strength to get them to click into each other. The female side of the plow end is a 50/50 shot whether it goes in ok. Inserting the male end of the plow into the female of the tractor's third function barely goes in. It takes 5m of working it in there. By the end of it all, my arms and fingers are dead in the 10ｺ weather from getting them together. It sucks too, because I need to be able to keep swapping back and forth from the FEL to the plow, so I need to be able to click these on and off regularly.

I tried turning the tractor off thinking perhaps there is some pressure that is stopping them from connecting? Perhaps a little lithium grease inside the fittings? There anything else I could do? The fitting on the tractor end is brand new from EA. The plow side looks relatively new as well.

Suggestions? Thanks.

 

[ovrszd]

After you turn off the tractor, turn the key back to "on" and activate the 3rd function buttons to relieve any stored pressure. Also move the joystick into all positions, if that applies, to also relieve any pressure.

The second culprit in these situations is heat buildup in the attachment system. But that shouldn't be the case from what you describe. I'd rather say you've released the hoses with a "load" on the attachment side.

 

[Woodsman603]

I gotcha.

Tractor off, then run position.

Flick the 3rd function a few times with tractor off.

Move joystick all around,

then done.

I can do that. I simply thought turning the tractor off would be enough. I'll see how this works. I was hoping it'd be just like an air line and it'd be quick on and off. Kind of sucks to have to do this each time, but it could be worse I guess.

Thanks man.

 

[downsizingnow48]

When I have that problem it is always two reasons. Either I forgot to wiggle the valves to relieve pressure on the tractor side connectors, or I left the attachment in a position where it is pressurizing the attachment side connectors.

 

[Fallon]

I just got a Waite tool to depressurize the lines & it works as advertised. Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Hydraulic Tools>>

Turn the machine off & actuate the valves to relieve teactor pressure. Impliment side is often harder. If you put impliments away cold then it warms up the fluid expands a bit & pressurized the lines. That pressure pushes the poppets to stay shut & not let you connect things.

 

[kennyd]

I just got a Waite tool to depressurize the lines & it works as advertised. Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Hydraulic Tools>>

Thank you Fallon.

 

[RNeumann]

I have to turn the machine off and hit the third function buttons as stated above. I don’t move the joystick but I guess you could. I store the couplings on the blade connected to each other so I know that side won’t build pressure. Plus it keeps them clean.

 

[ovrszd]

I have to turn the machine off and hit the third function buttons as stated above. I don’t move the joystick but I guess you could. I store the couplings on the blade connected to each other so I know that side won’t build pressure. Plus it keeps them clean.

Connecting them together does nothing to prevent pressure buildup due to heat. It's effective to keep them clean. That's about all.

 

[RNeumann]

Connecting them together does nothing to prevent pressure buildup due to heat. It's effective to keep them clean. That's about all.

Neve said anything about heat buildup.
But heat buildup on the implement side isn’t going to prevent coupling and uncoupling......their’s no heat being generated!!! You are slipping out of that armchair!

If the implement side is left uncoupled any settling, moving etc can cause pressure to build in the implement. It’s good and standard practice to recouple disconnected implements when disconnected from the machine.

 

[the old grind]

... heat buildup on the implement side isn't going to prevent coupling and uncoupling......there's no heat being 'generated'!!! You are slipping out of that armchair!

If the implement side is left uncoupled any settling, moving etc can cause pressure to build in the implement. It's good and standard practice to re-couple disconnected implements when disconnected from the machine.

Reconnecting a hydraulic attachment that was parked on a cooler day means it's bound to have internal pressure without heat being generated.

Wobbling the joystick with the engine off makes connecting easier from the tractor side, but doesn't do piddly diddly on a warm Spring day when you go to hook up the grapple you parked in November. The tool Ken sells is superb if you don't want to make your own.

 

[ovrszd]

Neve said anything about heat buildup.
But heat buildup on the implement side isn’t going to prevent coupling and uncoupling......their’s no heat being generated!!! You are slipping out of that armchair!

If the implement side is left uncoupled any settling, moving etc can cause pressure to build in the implement. It’s good and standard practice to recouple disconnected implements when disconnected from the machine.

I'll simply say, see Old Grind's post above. I'm afraid you have missed the point completely. You need to borrow my armchair???

 

[RNeumann]

Reconnecting a hydraulic attachment that was parked on a cooler day means it's bound to have internal pressure without heat being generated.

Wobbling the joystick with the engine off makes connecting easier from the tractor side, but doesn't do piddly diddly on a warm Spring day when you go to hook up the grapple you parked in November. The tool Ken sells is superb if you don't want to make your own.

I’ve never not been able to uncouple a stored implement.....no matter the weather. I guess if you leave them uncoupled you need Ken’s tool...like they say, their’s a tool for everything!

Im confused how jiggling the joystick relieves the pressure on the third function valve? Should we also be jiggling the hydraulics for the 3 point and steering wheel? Or just the joystick since those are the two closest to the third function valve? Are you thinking of a diverter for the curl function?

I’ve never needed to jiggle the joystick to relive pressure on my third function valve......but maybe Ken’s tool you do?

 

[npalen]

Some folks use one male and one female quick coupler on the 3rd function hoses. Does the Waite tool work on the female as well as the male end? Just asking.

 

[kennyd]

Some folks use one male and one female quick coupler on the 3rd function hoses. Does the Waite tool work on the female as well as the male end? Just asking.

It only works on male ends, you can see that in the short video we have using it.

 

[ovrszd]

I’ve never not been able to uncouple a stored implement.....no matter the weather. I guess if you leave them uncoupled you need Ken’s tool...like they say, their’s a tool for everything!

Im confused how jiggling the joystick relieves the pressure on the third function valve? Should we also be jiggling the hydraulics for the 3 point and steering wheel? Or just the joystick since those are the two closest to the third function valve? Are you thinking of a diverter for the curl function?

I’ve never needed to jiggle the joystick to relive pressure on my third function valve......but maybe Ken’s tool you do?

If you use a Diverter Valve you must hold the button and jiggle the joystick to get relief, all with the key on. I use true 3rd function with two buttons on my joystick. To relieve pressure I turn on the key and push each button a couple times.

 

[the old grind]

Hydraulic systems work at thousands of PSI, but a mere hundred psi (not much 'give' in the system at that pressure) can be hard to push against with hands/arms at a poor angle for leverage, as when leaning over a FEL bucket or an implement.

That most anything uncouples easily vets wobbling the stick for that task. (my diverter is direct -wired, no key-on needed) Going to want to wobble sticks/levers to hook up, still.

I tried some 'pressure-relieving' male ends on the Big Deere for hooking up an FEL. There was a poppet in the plug that replaced the ball. Nice idea, but to bleed mere drops vs several CCs any/every time, they came up short. IMO, any tool would surpass having them.

Making a reliever for female ends could be as easy as turning a dummy male, but w/o the lip/groove for the balls to latch to. Slide into female fitting, tap with whatever, wipe clean before connecting. :2cents:

 

[Fallon]

Some folks use one male and one female quick coupler on the 3rd function hoses. Does the Waite tool work on the female as well as the male end? Just asking.

It only works on the male flat faced connectors, at least for mine. The tractor is easy enough to handle. Just actuate the 3rd function levers or button while it's not running. For my PHD & plow, you only need to bleed 1 QD on the impliment. With a pair of single acting cylinders or a motor pressure is relieved on both sides unless something is hard up against a stop. Even then it often relieves.

 

[Woodsman603]

Haven't needed the FEL the past few days, but I will tonight to bring in more firewood. I'll have to see how this works.

In semi-related news, now that I can angle the plow the time it takes to do the quarter mile driveway went from 3.5h to 1h.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Here's a video on the subject, and I'm pretty sure he even mentions TBN.
Travis

 

[ovrszd]

Very informative video. I appreciate dealers offering this type of advice openly to the public, customers or not.

I expected him to cover heat expansion. Just following the guidance he gave does nothing to solve that problem. Also coupling the hoses together does nothing to solve the heat expansion problem either.