The Log house Project begins........

[bindian]

I get my "R" panel metal and screws from Mueller, like Eddie. Their manufacturer instructions call for the screws on the flats between the ridges. Until I built my barn with Mueller's products, I used corrugated tin, with the NAILS (no rubber washer) going into the ridges. Screw placement might go to match a certain wind rating.
hugs, Brandi

 

[MotorSeven]

Ron, yes some still recommend the ridges, but if you google the subject you will find more mfg's using the flats method & I don't think region has much to do with it. Both methods have their weaknesses, and the bottom line is when you put a hole on your metal roof, it is always a possible fail point. I have an idea of why the flats are getting the nod in recent years, the metal used now is thinner, and deforms much easier than the old galvanized stuff that weighed a ton. I think the metal from 50 years ago stood a much better chance against a guy with a heavy hammer than the stuff nowadays. Yes, you can get thicker Galvalume panels, but the cost is way up there. No way would I try screw the metal I used on my roof through the rib because even with the clutch set properly, when screwing into a softer area of the purlin, I would over drive it. I know, because I have tried in the past. I used to be a ridge guy, but switched to the flats a long long time ago.

If I have a leak through a screw hole it's going to be operator error, not because it's in the flat. And if this is in fact the case, I'll find it come eLL or high wat.........e.....r:laughing:

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Can you still purchase roofing nails with a lead washer? I thought that someone told me that the EPA banned it.

 

[pacerron]

Ron, yes some still recommend the ridges, but if you google the subject you will find more mfg's using the flats method & I don't think region has much to do with it. Both methods have their weaknesses, and the bottom line is when you put a hole on your metal roof, it is always a possible fail point. I have an idea of why the flats are getting the nod in recent years, the metal used now is thinner, and deforms much easier than the old galvanized stuff that weighed a ton. I think the metal from 50 years ago stood a much better chance against a guy with a heavy hammer than the stuff nowadays. Yes, you can get thicker Galvalume panels, but the cost is way up there. No way would I try screw the metal I used on my roof through the rib because even with the clutch set properly, when screwing into a softer area of the purlin, I would over drive it. I know, because I have tried in the past. I used to be a ridge guy, but switched to the flats a long long time ago.

If I have a leak through a screw hole it's going to be operator error, not because it's in the flat. And if this is in fact the case, I'll find it come eLL or high wat.........e.....r:laughing:

Yep,
There were various quality levels, of what looked to be the same panel to the average person, even back then.
Even the design of the rolled arches is significant to the strength. That is why we built "wonder arches" to protect
our multi-million dollar aircraft on the ground in hostile places in the world.
Prices have risen and quality has gone down, particularly with the imported stuff that is taking over our economy.
People want cheap and don't want to believe " You get what you pay for" Most have no concept of negotiating a deal.
They think what ever the price is marked is what they have to pay.

At the time of my barns building I was still working 50-60 hours a week so doing the barns couldn't be a DIY project.
One person couldn't handle the size of the material anyway. Morton was the only supplier in the area that could provide
trusses for a 64 foot wide barn completed. The other suppliers had to do it in 2 pieces and scab them together in the field.


I just wanted to clear up your statement.
My barns are not galvanized and the nails do not have lead washers.

I'm sure you will find the source of your leaks. I figured you had done it last summer.
Those roofs are slick, even with just DEW on them so be careful.
A piece of foam rubber can help with the traction if you are on your knees or sitting.

 

[PAGUY]

I have an idea that could be an answer to the problem. When installing a metal roof use the membrane that is used to protect against ice damming at roof edges by cutting strips and attaching to the purlins so that by screwing into the purlin in valley metal roof it would be leak free from under the metal.

 

[MotorSeven]

I did consider running a strip of ice shield 2' wide by 44' half under the main roof & half under the porch roof at the transition(is this what your talking about?). However, if the transition is leaking, it would still run down hit the ice shield run another foot then drip out onto the porch....right?

 

[PAGUY]

Actually I meant strips along each purlin (cut the width of each purlin).

A manufactured product would probably be a big seller for metal roof installation. The combination of rubber/nylon washer on outside of nail/screw and the strip under would make it leakproof.

 

[pacerron]

Actually I meant strips along each purlin (cut the width of each purlin).

A manufactured product would probably be a big seller for metal roof installation. The combination of rubber/nylon washer on outside of nail/screw and the strip under would make it leakproof.

It might help with leaks. There are materials that create a gum seal around punctures like nails/screws.
The problem might be, since his metal is so thin, it would increase the "dimple factor" depressions around the screw seal/head base
that would hold water. Instead of the metal being on a hard surface, like wood, it would be on a soft surface.

Rick, do you know what gauge yours is without the paint?
It looks like 29 gauge or 26 which is a little thicker is common these days.

 

[s219]

I helped an uncle do a pole barn roof about 15 years ago using galvanized panels. Towards the end, we ran out of special roofing screws, so he pulled out some regular sheet metal screws and caulked each one. Those caulked screws have never leaked, but many of the roofing screws have started to leak in the last 1-2 years. Upon examination, it looks like the rubber gaskets have begun to break down.

I have never been real comfortable with metal roofing that gets screwed down through the sheet, even though it should be OK if done right with proper screws. However, we did standing seam on a neighbor's place, and that is a great system. All hidden brackets and snap together crimps, so there are no exposed fasteners. Material cost wasn't bad, but the labor increases quite a bit.

 

[sld]

Installing wet with sealant is an aircraft method to prevent corrosion and leaks.

I would think that would be a good method on a metal roof, but maybe time consuming.