The Log house Project begins........

[dstig1]

Nice work and congrats!

I'll be the safety police on the ladder... Make sure you have a good way of keeping the uprights from spreading apart. I'd suggest cross-drill screws in a few of the rungs (both sides of the rung) so that it can't spread open (if you haven't already). Maybe top bottom and a couple in the middle. Threaded rod is another method, but harder to do. This has been known to happen with wood ladders, especially of the home-made variety. But dang, that looks cool!

I hope that lacquer on the copper holds up as that is really cool looking. I will say that I am skeptical that it will. You will need to be religious about certain things to keep it up. Probably the biggest one is to NEVER cut directly on or bang anything hard on the counter. If you nick the lacquer it can start to lift. If it is a true lacquer, then it is simply an evaporative finish so you can repair it by re-coating the damage as the solvent will re-dissolve the coating and blend in. The repairability will be nice over the years as kitchen counters are high wear items, so damage is inevitable.

 

[MotorSeven]

Yes, there is a 6" screw through the "poles" into the end of each rung and the tennon is glued. I will have to take the top rung off as it's too hard to step over.......... I'll come up with something that is removable.

I have 3/4's of a can of Permalac left over and was thinking the same thing. I'll keep it in the kitchen for spot repairs which will only take a min to do.

 

[pacerron]

Yes, there is a 6" screw through the "poles" into the end of each rung and the tennon is glued. I will have to take the top rung off as it's too hard to step over.......... I'll come up with something that is removable.

Have you considered making a pivot mount for the ladder where it meets the upper floor and cutting off the top of the ladder above the floor?
You could make grab handles to hold onto at the top for getting off and on at the top. Might even consider a a way to latch the bottom up to the log cross beam log. That way it would be up out of the way except when you need to get up there.
Had that one deck floor joist not been in the middle of the ladder you could have hidden a pull out, pull down, spring assisted stairway under the upper floor.

 

[MoKelly]

You are simply amazing. I can't think of any other word -- amazing. Congrats on all you have accomplished and many thanks for sharing.

MoKelly

 

[forgeblast]

What about a rolling libary ladder, Rolling Ladders, Custom Library Ladders, Wooden Ladders: Putnam Rolling Ladder
You could roll it out of the way when not needed, or make it more stable. Or could could do bookcases on that entire wall and have the ladder do double duty.
There is an example of a loft ladder in the link.

 

[MotorSeven]

I find myself ripping a lot of Poplar and Cedar now that I'm trimming out....{sneeze} I really need to dig out my cartridge mask{sneeze}. I am working on closing up the inside gables next to the glass right now.


{sneeze}

 

[MotorSeven]

Thanks Mo...it's really just a "get 'er done thing":laughing:

 

[MotorSeven]

So why am I up at 0430 hrs? Shopping for a jig saw of course. Killed another one yesterday.....
Tools I have killed on this job(so far):

Skil saw 1- blade got bound while cutting a long heavy board...broke something on the shaft inside.

Skil saw 2- ran slower and slower, took it apart and one set of brushes were melted. Replaced brushes($12) and it still running, but it doesn't quite sound right.

1 Harbor Freight D-handle drill, switch quit, was all gobbed up with carbon....cleaned it to no avail.

Ryobi Jig Saw(yesterday). I know, I should have bought the Bosch Anyway, it had that stupid knob on top to turn the blade which I never used and it got loose and the blade was wandering all over. I took it apart only to find that the shaft(metal) has a notch & the "stop" to lock it down is plastic. It was waller'd out(that's a highly technical term) so the saw is now in the trash. I dont' think that cutting through 3/4 oak flooring on top of 2x10's helped it much:confused3:

So I'm thinking Bosch JS470EB...any opinions?
7.0 Amp Barrel Grip Jig Saw-JS470EB at The Home Depot

 

[pacerron]

So why am I up at 0430 hrs? Shopping for a jig saw of course. Killed another one yesterday.....
Tools I have killed on this job(so far)

So I'm thinking Bosch JS470EB...any opinions?
7.0 Amp Barrel Grip Jig Saw-JS470EB at The Home Depot

Are those T-Shank blades proven to be better than regular shank or are they just a gimmic to get you to buy Bosch blades?
Will regular shank blades fit in the saw you are looking at?
I'm old fashioned, but prefer a saw with a split metal shaft and a locking collar with an allen screw on the front and side to hold the blades
and give support to the neck.
The time it takes to change a blade does not outweigh good construction IMO.

 

[MotorSeven]

I was leery of the T shanks at first, but after using them they hold as good as the set screw type. Almost all mfg's now use the same T shank and Bosh's are near the top in quality. There is a huge difference in cut quality from chepo blades(slow and won't cut straight) to Bosch. Since their blades are so good I figure their saw must be pretty good too.

Also looking at the Milwaukee which has a LED light...big plus for seeing were I am cutting.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-626...=1347714958&sr=8-1&keywords=milwaukee+6268-21