/ The guy that put the engine internals together says "The rings are not seated yet end the smoking is normal. Just give it a couple hours of work"
#81
Clearly you provide a decent amount of information to the shop, and they probably know you well enough to figure out what you'll expect--and pay for.I gotta disagree unless I misunderstand. But that is exactly what I have always done....
Drop off a scored crank.....I have no idea if it needs .005, .010, .020, etc.....I dont wanna jump right to .020 if .010 will clean it up. But also dont wanna say .010 if it leaves scoring.
Same for cylinder walls, head and block deck.
Take just what it needs to clean up.....then next common increment for parts. (IE....takes 0.017 to clean cylinder.....go .020 over).
Don't order rotating assembly parts til after machine work is done so I know what size (over/under) to order parts
The Ford tractor rings are very hard. You MUST put a thermostat in it and run it hard for a while after it warms up fully. I used to Dyno engines at the dealer I worked at years ago. I think it was no load for 30, 25% load for 30, 50% load for 30 minutes 75% for 30. I am not sure on the time but it took 2.5 hours. 100% of the rated HP for 10 minutes, then no load for 10 or so minutes, then back to 100% for 10 more. In other words it has to be worked hard for a little bit to seat the rings and it has to be operating temperature which is about 180 - 190 degreesThat picture was before I sent the block out.
Sorry I should have included that information from the beginning.
-Bored 040 over
-Machined Crank
-New Pistons all
-New Rods all (one was bent)
-New Rings
-New Injectors
-New Valves
-New Guides
-New Oil Pump
-New Cam Bearings
-Lifters looked perfect just cleaned
-Push rods checked and re-used
-New Idler timing Gear
I dealt with the machine shop dropped and picked up. The machine shop got the Reliant rebuild kit and did the cam bearings, the rings were installed when I got the pistons in the boxes. They said everything was correct and ready for assembly. I have done mechanical work since I can remember and do pretty well on any project BUT, I wanted an experience builder to actually put it together. I have put engines together but I am NOT "The Engine Guy"
The guy that put the internals together came to my shop with his father and put it together. I had everything cleaned, labeled, and laid out on a table like a surgery before the doctor gets there. I watched them and waited on his every request (tools, bolts, supplies...etc). He seemed to know what he was doing. No big red flags on the build.
The owner had it at a repair shop for 3 months. It is a dirty mess to say the least with unfinished tractors sitting everywhere. The shop was probably good 20 years ago. The owner is in his 80's now. . It was never going to get done. The owner wants it done completely and correct. I volunteered to take the project. (not my best decision ever...lol) The owner is a friend of mine with no engine experience and was overwhelmed. He plans on keeping for the long haul and using it on his ranch for baling, and general work after adding a loader.
Thanks for your help
With new bearings, machined crank and new oil pump, it should have around 100 psi of pressure. 15W/40 oil? Sounds like something was left out. Maybe half of the bearing? I saw that in a new short block from Ford, or an oil gallery plug?Doesn't sound right to me, but I've never done it myself. Just watched videos of rebuilt other engines are they are looking for at least 40psi of oil at cranking speed before they'll turn the fuel on and try to start it.
Check the oil pump pressure relief valve, make sure it’s not stuck open or missingThe Oil is great until it gets up to operating Temperature. 60psi at cold start up then 45psi after it is warms to 140F as long as the RPMs above 1200. Then it gets weird....oil pressure drops radically below 1000 rpm to below 16psi at 800rpms (per low pressure alarm I added to build) the gage coincides to around 10psi. Thanks for your time.