TC40DA electric (over hydraulic?) anomaly. No joystick functions!

[tc40da-rg]

Curses! I posted - or thought I did! - a reply on the 8th. Don’t know why it didn’t actually post; maybe due to weak signal/ connection. Anyway, I bought multi-meter. Initial battery voltage (before cranking) was 12.5 volts; engine running was 14.9 volts. So, alternator IS definitely charging. I performed tests on all the relays and they all appear to check out ok, with the exception of the glow-plug relay; which I already suspected may be bad.

To date, the battery light still does not light up when key is turned “on”/“accessory” and battery light comes on and remains on while engine is running. The lights on the LaneShark control box do now come on and stay on while the engine is running (as they should); but, they dim when I press the rocker switch for the Hi-Lo range, and go out when I press the rocker switch (either/both directions) for the third function (grapple/LS)! Still there is no functioning of the grapple/LS hydraulics nor the Hi-Lo range selection.

I am going to clip the wires to the LS control box and eliminate it entirely, thus removing it from the equation. If nothing changes, I will reattach it and do the same process with wires to third function valve. If neither process renders any change, I am pretty much stumped.

 

[alexpops]

I'm guessing here ... you said the problems started when you installed the LS (had the control box installed) after your original mechanic's kid did some work & gave up. I would bet that he tapped into/made some electrical connections that screwed up the hi/low circuit & maybe the key-on 12 v tap used by the battery light & when LS installed the control box, they simply used/left his wiring since it was already there & they assumed it was ok. I'd start by seeing the circuit(s) you are actually tapped into, disconnect the original work @ the connection point & see if the problems go away on the battery light & hi/lo selector. Then, run a temporary fused jumper to a good 12 v source (battery/spare fuse spot/+ bus bar/whatever) to see if the LS runs right when it gets powered up again. If you're problems are gone, the issue was the original 12 v tap. If the problems are the same, check for shorts/excess draw in the wires, controller, relays on the LS circuit(s), or rubbed through insulation that's impacting another circuit. (will take time & running down each wire in the circuit AND may be pointless without a wiring diagram/spec sheet on the LS and controller). If the problems are different, you have a new dilemma, since it could set you off down another circuit check. When I get these intermittent electrical issues or "that don't make sense" problems on something that someone else worked on, I'll try to go "back to factory" when possible & start over connecting power in the right way. At a minimum, trace down the wire runs & see if anything looks pinched/tweaked/out of place since LOTS of aftermarket wiring jobs are done by hacks. The fact that your grapple toggle starts/started your LS sometimes indicates some sort of wiring problem (or a single block being used for both of the hydro circuits, where as I understand it, you need separate blocks for motor or cylinder use). Electrical issues were one of the reasons I quit cranking wrenches for a living in the 70's, so take any of my advice with that in mind.

 

[tc40da-rg]

I want to thank everyone who has offered help and information. I regret that it has taken me this long to get back here and Update but there have been so many things going on lately that I don’t know whether I’m coming or going.
When I originally checked all the fuses, I accidentally missed a blown 25 amp fuse, and guess what? When I replaced it, I got grapple function and hi-Lo functions back. It all worked as it had before … for about four working days. The fuse blew again. that time it only lasted a few hours working. The next fuse lasted only minutes.
The tachometer hasn’t worked “right” for quite a long time. (Maybe since the Lane Shark was installed?) and it now stays “pegged out” while everything else is working correctly. I’m wondering if this is pointing to a cause for all these symptoms.
Does anyone have the info on the fuse box for a TC40DA (2004)? It would REALLY help if I knew what each fuse (and relay) are for. I’m including pictures of the fuse box and the relays with the hope that someone may know, or have documentation for their circuits/ purposes.
Again, thanks in advance for any help that can be offered.

This is a long shot here, but I also have a Coleman 500 sized-by-side ATV that I believe the electrical system has been shorted out with water. It was running when it was inundated with water (a hose nozzle, not “mudding”). There is absolutely no response when the ignition key is turned. I do know the battery is fully charged, but it acts as if the battery is disconnected. Any ideas?

 

[alexpops]

LS: If you're blowing the 25amp fuse, my guess is that is the circuit they tapped into to power your controller & the circuit is being over loaded. Undo the tap and find another power source, or add a fused switch/relay/solenoid set-up if you cant find another key on power source.

ATV: Hard to tell from your description as to how it happened, but id look for a blown fuse, or shorted safety switch that you sprayed with the hose.

 

[kirkawilson]

 

[tc40da-rg]

LS: If you're blowing the 25amp fuse, my guess is that is the circuit they tapped into to power your controller & the circuit is being over loaded. Undo the tap and find another power source, or add a fused switch/relay/solenoid set-up if you cant find another key on power source.

ATV: Hard to tell from your description as to how it happened, but id look for a blown fuse, or shorted safety switch that you sprayed with the hose.

Thanks. I am going to try just that … once the rain stops (I’m out in the elements here).
What is it with me and electrical systems? My Dodge Ram dualy is now having both batteries drain to nothing, even though gauges show system IS charging!? AND, my rear passenger power door lock has ceased working. Does anyone know a particularly deserving individual that I might need to visit and touch all of their electronics stuff? LOL

 

[tc40da-rg]

View attachment 723830

Kirkawilson, THANK YOU so much! I have needed this from the start. But now I’m very confused, I have never changed any fuses in this tractor before this, and my number one and number five fuses are both 25 amp fuses. I assumed that’s what it needed since it’s been running for years those fuses in there.

 

[dlctcg]

Kirkawilson, THANK YOU so much! I have needed this from the start. But now I’m very confused, I have never changed any fuses in this tractor before this, and my number one and number five fuses are both 25 amp fuses. I assumed that’s what it needed since it’s been running for years those fuses in there.

@tc40da-rg - That sounds like a situation of someone putting in what they had, not necessary the correct size fuse. Neither of those circuits should need a 25 amp fuse unless someone modified those circuits or something is wrong.

I would think 25 amp fuses are way to big for those circuits & you are fortunate enough that nothing ever happened, as I would think the wiring is not even rated for it & could wind up being the weakest link in the circuit prior to the fuse blowing.

Our TC40D has the same layout & it also only calls for the 7.5 & 5 amp fuses as shown.

 

[kirkawilson]

The block lettering number on a 7.5 amp fuse can be confused with a "25"?

If you are still blowing a fuse, it is likely that your dashboard wiring harness repair job has a couple of wires crossed or there is still a short somewhere close to the repair spot. I also had a "varmint" lunch on my wiring harness and it took some very careful repair work to make sure the splices were correct.

 

[tc40da-rg]

It has been months since I’ve been back to the forum, but it doesn’t mean my electrical issues are by any means gone. I’m fully aware that in these times everyone has their own “issues” going on and it is my sincerest hopes that you all are doing well out there.
Back to the New Holland. I did find a wire with the insulation rubbed off and shorting out (going to the FEL joystick controls); which I repaired AND I completely removed the LaneShark control box and replaced it with a heavy duty on/off rocker switch. All worked perfectly . . . for about 14 hours working time! Then the same symptoms arose again — LS quit spinning, stuck in low range, instrument panel gone haywire! I drove the tractor out of the woods and parked it next to my camper and truck AND TOOLS to begin again “tomorrow“ on the saga of the electrical goblins. But, before I left it overnight, I shut it off and restarted it a few times (mostly to show my brother what it was (not) doing. Next morning, when I went to crank it, Only a single “click” came of turning the key. That’s all it’s done since. This was nearly three weeks ago.

I have gone back through every fuse, every relay, every safety switch (and all the linkages and settings for each), battery charge state, dozens of electrical connections/terminals checked, cleaned and retightened, pulled and checked the starter, yanked the third function valve apart and (tried to) make sure it is functioning as it should, and drank a few . When the ignition switch is turned “on”(not “crank”) there is a single click each time. There is no reaction in the instrument panel at all; unless I turn on the instrument panel back lights, which DO light up. Nothing else occurs — No instrument panel functions at all. With two people present we still cannot locate the source of this click sound.

When the key is turned all the way to start/crank, there is another click made. I can feel the “bump” from this click all across the relays panel.

This mess has cost me a year and a half of frustration, lost time and money, and I now feel that I am no closer to finding the real problem than I was on day one. Has anyone run across this same anomaly? Or, perhaps need a really expensive yard ornament? ‍